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Topic: Kayak Cart Question  (Read 3714 times)

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Travis

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I am in the process of making a kayak cart and I need some advice.  I used 3/4 inch steel pipe to go in the scupper holes and then put duct tape on it to make it fit snug and for padding.  I made the pipe fit as snug as I could.  It seems to work great but I am worried about the pressure on the scupper holes because the cart seems to lean a back a little.    Is this something I should worry about?




ChuckE

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Nice welding job.  I wish I could do that.  Was it hard to do?

As long as the weight of your kayak is resting on the foam padding and not on the round metal lugs, you should be okay.  However, I would use your scupper hole cart for light duty hauls (like through parking lots and flat ground) since you don't want to put excessive stress on the scupper holes.  I've heard of stories of cracks developing in the scupper hole (out of normal view).  That's something you don't want to discover when your offshore.

With your welding skills, I would also try to build an all-terrain cart equipped with balloon wheels for sand an rough trails.
or
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Travis

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The weight of the kayak is on the foam but I don't like how much leverage is on the scupper holes.  I think I may end up modifying the cart to be like the pics that you posted.  My original intent was to make it collapsable so I can put it in my front hatch.  Right now I can unscrew the pipes and take off the wheels to break it down pretty small.  Oh well, back to the drawing board.  :smt011   I am gunna make this cart a tank so I can mash it hard.
Quote
Was it hard to do?


I just used MIG, it is easy.  I would have preferred to TIG it but I don't have a TIG machine.


SBD

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Travis-

Use the scupper to hold it in place but not bear the weight.  Put supports under each scupper pin to carry the load.  Similar to the style on Insane Duane's site but make them longer.


ChuckE

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Quote
Use the scupper to hold it in place but not bear the weight. Put supports under each scupper pin to carry the load.

Erik "KZreelrods"  built a nearly indestructible cart using this design.  The cool thing about his cart is that straps aren't needed to hold the cart in place.  Maybe, we can get him to post the pic.
Winner - 2023 ARW Halibut Derby "King of the Wall"
Winner - 2018 ARW Halibut Handline Derby
Winner - 2013 Doran Beach Crabfest
2nd Place - 2012 Alameda Rockwall Halibut Derby
Winner (Biggest Rock Crab) - 2010 Half Moon Bay Crabfest
Winner - 2009 Alameda Rockwall Halibut Derby
Winner - 2009 Paradise Halibut Hunt
Winner - 2007 NCKA Angler of the Year
Winner "Grand Slam" - 2007 Bendo @ Mendo III
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promethean_spark

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If you run a rope back to your cart and pull mostly on that rope instead of the boat, you won't be stressing the scupper holes as much.  Could maybe put that piece of rope through the loop on your front handle, or tie it to the front handle and pull at the end of the loop - 1/2 the stress.  

I sank in a kayak whos scupper hole got scraped open by a piece of steel conduit - be careful with metal where it might wear through.
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Travis

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Does anyone have a link to Insane Duane's site? I can't find it.  
Quote
Erik "KZreelrods" built a nearly indestructible cart using this design. The cool thing about his cart is that straps aren't needed to hold the cart in place. Maybe, we can get him to post the pic.

That would be great.


ChuckE

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Winner - 2023 ARW Halibut Derby "King of the Wall"
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2nd Place - 2012 Alameda Rockwall Halibut Derby
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Winner - 2009 Alameda Rockwall Halibut Derby
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2nd Place - 2007 Monterey Bay Kayak Fishing Derby
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SBD

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Eriks design does the same thing.  Scuppers locate the yak but do not support it.


KZ

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Here's my cart.... works great and is very durable.  My first cart was similar to Travis' first design (except made from PVC).  It broke... this is my third design and I'm happy with it.

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Travis

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Thanks for all the help guys!  I decided I didn't like anything going through the scupper holes.  It just made me nervous.  I think im gunna try out this design.  It seems to support the kayak very well.  It will take me longer to put it on and off because I have to strap it down but I feel better about it.  It will still fit in my front hatch no problem.  Another good thing about this design is that I can position the kart anywhere under the kayak.  The next thing I need to adress is how to minimize rusting.  I was thinking of sealing all the open ends of the pipe and tubing then spraying it with some good self etching primer and  putting never-cease on the threads.




MolBasser

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EXCELLENT SOLUTION.

Wow, that looks great.  The only thing I would worry about is how much it weighs.....So how much does it weigh?

Nice work no matter what.

MolBasser
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Travis

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Thanks man.  It weights maybee 15 pounds max.  I used 1/16 wall steel tubing for the frame so that part is pretty light.  The heaviest part is the wheels


KZ

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Looks good Travis... nice work!  I too would be concerned about rust.  

I wonder how much it would cost to have someone powder coat it... that would be sweet.
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www.kzreelrods.com

Acts 10:13 And there came a voice to him, Rise, Peter; kill, and eat.