Hobie Revolution 16 rigging recommendations

I might also add to mount the rod holder on the left side facing right, if it is a screw on. That way any torque will be in the tightening direction. Otherwise a bite could cause your rod holder to twist and your rod to fly out. Also having the rod across the kayak reduces the torque on the boat.

Here's a couple pictures comparing the scotty mount vs the railblaza sideport mount inside the mesh pockets. With the railblaza, you still have a lot of pocket space, but with scotty, it's a lot less. And, besides the space savings, I prefer the railblaza mounts.

And how do you load and unload from car.

Sweet ride. I got a rubberized bathmat that wont mar the car finish and it'll stay in place. I put it above the door between the rails, and load the bow onto it so the kayak is perpendicular to the car. Keel guard on the rear to pivot on asphalt with no worries. I open the hatches to use as grab points. Slide it on up and walk the rear to the back of the car as the kayak pivots on its center.. Could also do it from the rear if your car doesnt have a spoiler.

Thanks everyone.
I’ll take the kayak out this weekend before mounting anything.
See how it works and evaluate each of the options.

One thing I tried and worked is using my Codinter load assist. See image below.

I load the kayak on the cart, and then bring it behind my Civic, where the device is mounted with suction cups to the trunk. I lean the front of the kayak on the device, lift the back of the kayak, the cart drops, and I simply slide the kayak all the way. I wedge 4 small foam pads at each contact point with the cross bars to eliminate stress from the tie down straps on the center of the hull.
It’s a loooooooong kayak

Why not mount rails with good thick starboard backers on the outside just in front of the handles? Give me minute and I’ll download your pick mark up the area I’m talking about and put them in this post.

Cool 
I was actually thinking about this option too. But the paddle can only be stowed on one side, and also the outside is more exposed to water. But I’m curious if you tried it and how it worked.

Thanks everyone.
I’ll take the kayak out this weekend before mounting anything.
See how it works and evaluate each of the options.

One thing I tried and worked is using my Codinter load assist. See image below.

I load the kayak on the cart, and then bring it behind my Civic, where the device is mounted with suction cups to the trunk. I lean the front of the kayak on the device, lift the back of the kayak, the cart drops, and I simply slide the kayak all the way. I wedge 4 small foam pads at each contact point with the cross bars to eliminate stress from the tie down straps on the center of the hull.
It’s a loooooooong kayak

Be careful with that suction cup load assist, they dont stay in place. Your yak ends up sliding down with a load thud.  After using it for a few months I gave up and went with a Yakima Showboat.

Thanks everyone.
I’ll take the kayak out this weekend before mounting anything.
See how it works and evaluate each of the options.

One thing I tried and worked is using my Codinter load assist. See image below.

I load the kayak on the cart, and then bring it behind my Civic, where the device is mounted with suction cups to the trunk. I lean the front of the kayak on the device, lift the back of the kayak, the cart drops, and I simply slide the kayak all the way. I wedge 4 small foam pads at each contact point with the cross bars to eliminate stress from the tie down straps on the center of the hull.
It’s a loooooooong kayak

Be careful with that suction cup load assist, they dont stay in place. Your yak ends up sliding down with a load thud.  After using it for a few months I gave up and went with a Yakima Showboat.

Yeah 
It happened to me twice. But I think if I’m careful enough it works. But I agree - no error margin

I spent a lot of time today mounting the Scottys into the Revo16 pockets. The port side has 2: one for downrigger, and another for a rod holder (with an extension arm).
Here’re some lessons I learned:
- by using a 1/2” plastic plate as backing I was able to make the mount very rigid. I was worried about the non straight shape of the mounting area, but it confirmed to the plate no problem.
- I had to use electrical tape to attach the top nuts to the plate. There’s just not enough clearance to hold them. It worked well.
- I had to make a template and be very precise with the holes. This resulted in a long and agonizing install, but it’s very stable and water tight.
- By using silicone, I was able to seal the existing cable hole. It works very well as long as you don’t stress the plate. I let the silicone dry overnight and completed the install the following day

You could have used a Scotty Backing Plate.  Its been around for years. I use a larger drill bit so I dont have perfectly align the holes.
https://www.austinkayak.com/Scotty-Backing-Plate-441/ACK16707P.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Shopping:%20ACK%20PLA&scid=scplp16707_14806_1