DIY Kayak Trailer - Lots o storage

Hi Guys,

I've been working on a DIY kayak trailer and taking photos of the process as I go along.  I've got some concerns that those among you who know trailers might be able to answer.

Found this 62 Apache tent trailer on Craigslist for $100 and thought it would be perfect for a trailer.  Shortly after I picked up a Thule rack that was missing the bed hardware for $40.

Tasks I've completed up to this point:

Replaced the tires including the spare which ironically cost more than the trailer.

I built a wood frame inside the area that used to contain the tent and mounted to aluminum composite doors on a living hinge for paddle and net storage.  Mounted some unistrut on the wood frame and created brackets for the rack to slide on the strut.

Replaced the rusted out locking handles with modern utility bed style locking handles.

Rewired the trailer lighting and replaced the broken tail-light lenses with 3d printed, retro style, lenses of my own design.

Tasks I intend to complete:

Lengthen the trailer tongue.

Ad dividers and shelves to the storage compartments.

Wrap and paint the trailer.


I am a little concerned about the size of the tires.  I plan on pulling this thing from Modesto to Monterey on a regular bases as well as hitting the local lakes.  The rims measure 9.5" and have a weight rating of 745 pounds.  The tire shop told me they are freeway rated.  Seems a little bouncy and it freaks me out every time I look at those little bitty tires.  Haven't pulled it on the freeway yet.  I was hoping someone on here with trailer experience might chime in with an opinion.

If there is interested I'll post some more pictures of the build process.

Any other opinions or ideas are greatly appreciated.

Did you replace the hubs or at least grease the bearings?

Hard to tell from the pic but if there’s a stack of leaf springs you could remove one of them to help with the bounce.

It's an extra stress on the tires and bearings. Always check your air pressure  and do regular maintenance for the bearings.

If those were 5 lugs, I’d offer you a free set of 12x5.3 trailer wheels. But they look like probably 4 lugs. This is a really cool project, thanks for sharing!

Did you replace the hubs or at least grease the bearings?

Hard to tell from the pic but if there’s a stack of leaf springs you could remove one of them to help with the bounce.

I haven't done anything with the bearings or hubs but I plan on doing that soon.  I just towed it from my shop to my house loaded the kayaks and brought them to the shop.  There is a stack of springs but they are pretty small.  I'm wondering if bringing the tongue level with a drop hitch will affect the bounce.

If those were 5 lugs, I’d offer you a free set of 12x5.3 trailer wheels. But they look like probably 4 lugs. This is a really cool project, thanks for sharing!

They are 4 but thanks for the thought.

I should add that the title "DIY Kayak with lots of storage and little wheels" really had me wondering. 

I should add that the title "DIY Kayak with lots of storage and little wheels" really had me wondering. 

Yeah that would be weird.  Fixed it.  Thanks for pointing it out.

You could switch to a longer axle and 12" wheels and tires $$$$$$....you would have to add fenders too.

I would modify or replace the ball mount so that the trailer is riding level (front and rear of trailer box are parallel to the ground) which will put more weight on the tongue than currently configured. This can make it bounce a little less and reduce sway.

I have built a few trailers....and those little bitty tires scare me. I would look at Etrailer.com and see what they have in the 4 lug size. I would go up a couple sizes and that should get rid of the bounce along with leveling it out a bit. I am doing a kayak trailer build right now too for my PA 14....using a jet ski trailer. Good luck, looks like a fun  project.

Those trailers can make you worry. With a heads-up, proactive approach, they will work fine for years.

We used a small wheeled trailer for about 7 years.  It carried about 600# and did thousands of miles each year from NorCal to throughout SoCal to Lake Havasu, AZ and Lake Tapps, WA without any problems. Kept a spare, checked pressure and filled bearing buddy cups as needed regularly, every trip included launches.

Chose to swap axle seals one time during that period. Right side inner started weeping a little, so did  both sides. Took about an hour.

Built a few trailers myself as well, worked in a custom manufacturing shop. Utility, landscape, curtain side, tank and boat trailers were some we did. We also stretched cab and chassis units.

Ok I have built a custom kayak trailer recently for one of the NWKA brothers up here and might be building one for an NCKA  brother down there. Drove garbage truck for 17 years, pulled utility trailers most my life and currently pull a 13,000 lbs 40 ft 5th wheel behind my 1986 F350 crew cab, as well as my snowbear knockoff kayak trailer behind TLW’s (for CDA) 2008 Subaru Outback. I have towed some sketchy looking shit after a full inspection of tires first, looking for cracks and signs of aging, bearings for fresh grease and tension, and over all condition of the framework.

 Now without my eyes on it I’m only going on my gut feeling.... if it were me I would build a custom 1-1/2 square tube frame that bolts to the trailers current axle points, that is approximately 1/2 inch wider then the trailer currently is... then I would put an (over the counter) axle on that... Amazon has lots of options I’m just not sure if they will have one that has the spring perches close enough to get that narrow of a trailer on it... again I have no dimensions and I’m a few miles away.... the one 1 custom built was 4 ft at the outside fender edges (photo) that was about $300 just for the custom axle.
  Towing the trailer as close to being level as possible is ideal. Also the trailers weight distribution needs to be be about 60/40 with 60% being on the tongue and 40% being behind the axle.
If you wanted to discuss it a little more or pick my brain for ideas and concerns shoot me a pm with your cell number and I’ll give you a call free consultation from this retired guy.

Shannon wrote:

Also the trailers weight distribution needs to be be about 60/40 with 60% being on the tongue and 40% being behind the axle.

That sounds right. The easiest way I know is to have a minimum of 10% of the trailer load on the ball. It’s relatively easy to estimate total weight. As an example, a load of 650# needs to displace 65 right at the ball to track smoothly behind the tow vehicle.

Shannon wrote:

Also the trailers weight distribution needs to be be about 60/40 with 60% being on the tongue and 40% being behind the axle.

That sounds right. The easiest way I know is to have a minimum of 10% of the trailer load on the ball. It’s relatively easy to estimate total weight. As an example, a load of 650# needs to displace 65 right at the ball to track smoothly behind the tow vehicle.

Best bet for figuring that out is find a local truck scale, up here there on when not manned... take the trailer off your truck and put the whole damn thing on the scale... total weight.... now take it off the scale and weigh just the tongue with the axle ooff the scale. I didn’t look close enough but if it has a tongue wheel that’s perfect if not a 2X4 pre cut to the height of the tongue with a level frame then subtract the few pounds for the board. That will give you you tongue weight, just remember to put all you gear in it that will be in it for the weight checks.

For a small trailer, with tongue weight at 250 lbs or less, a bathroom scale works fine. I used a 4 x 4 Doug Fir block.