Broken and/or Corroded Stainless Bolt Removal?

My Mini-X bow handle wore out and tore off. I went to remove the bolts, I had sprayed them with WD and let 'em sit for a couple hours. The hex wrench just turned, rounding out the POS wrench. I grabbed it with vise grips, it seemed to budge a bit, so I gently turned - it was moving!

Yeah, it moved, sheared right off, dammit. I drilled for a screw extractor (EZ-Out) and it still wont move even after an overnight soak in penetrant.

The hull has nuts that are cast in, they have held intact so far. I am considering just shearing the other bolt off and just riveting the handle on.

Any ideas on a way to loosen and free these?

My Mini-X bow handle wore out and tore off. I went to remove the bolts, I had sprayed them with WD and let 'em sit for a couple hours. The hex wrench just turned, rounding out the POS wrench. I grabbed it with vise grips, it seemed to budge a bit, so I gently turned - it was moving!

Yeah, it moved, sheared right off, dammit. I drilled for a screw extractor (EZ-Out) and it still wont move even after an overnight soak in penetrant.

The hull has nuts that are cast in, they have held intact so far. I am considering just shearing the other bolt off and just riveting the handle on.

Any ideas on a way to loosen and free these?

More penetrating oil and time.

If that fails, I'd shear (or grind) and rivet, or if it can be done gracefully, install a longer handle over the cast-in nuts. I wouldn't put too much force on the nuts--the WS commander I have has cast-in nuts for its scotty track, and the hull plastic has cracked over both of these castings, I suspect from the track putting lateral force on the nuts as it expands and contracts with the weather.
 

Stainless on stainless threads tend to gall and as such no amount of penetrating oil helps. Once a thread set starts to gall it only gets worse, so extracting the broken piece is also pretty much impossible.  Took me years to make it a habit but I put antiseize on all stainless threads.

Stainless on stainless threads tend to gall and as such no amount of penetrating oil helps. Once a thread set starts to gall it only gets worse, so extracting the broken piece is also pretty much impossible.  Took me years to make it a habit but I put antiseize on all stainless threads.

Yeah, that's been my experience as well, I was hopeful one of our resident rigging gurus might have had a fix. If I'd have installed the handle originally, I'd have coated it. I will probably just grind it flat and rivet the new one on.

Not sure exactly what you're looking at but I've invested in some really high quality high speed drill bits and "if you're lucky" been able to just drill out the broken stub completely and then re thread the hole. Doesn't usually come out clean and neat but could be serviceable. Or after drilling all the way thru, put a nut on it.  I just like threads vs rivets.

My Mini-X bow handle wore out and tore off. I went to remove the bolts, I had sprayed them with WD and let 'em sit for a couple hours. The hex wrench just turned, rounding out the POS wrench. I grabbed it with vise grips, it seemed to budge a bit, so I gently turned - it was moving!

Yeah, it moved, sheared right off, dammit. I drilled for a screw extractor (EZ-Out) and it still wont move even after an overnight soak in penetrant.

The hull has nuts that are cast in, they have held intact so far. I am considering just shearing the other bolt off and just riveting the handle on.

Any ideas on a way to loosen and free these?

More penetrating oil and time.

If that fails, I'd shear (or grind) and rivet, or if it can be done gracefully, install a longer handle over the cast-in nuts. I wouldn't put too much force on the nuts--the WS commander I have has cast-in nuts for its scotty track, and the hull plastic has cracked over both of these castings, I suspect from the track putting lateral force on the nuts as it expands and contracts with the weather.
 

Those areas can be soldered (with plastic) to repair... Had to do it before on my other kayaks.

As to getting the corrosian loosened up. I've used hot wax dripped on it then blow dryer to get it HOT not melty though. Wax gets i n there and desolves, lubricates screws for removal. (Candling) we do this on cars... Stainless may never come loose though... Good luck!

Not sure exactly what you're looking at but I've invested in some really high quality high speed drill bits and "if you're lucky" been able to just drill out the broken stub completely and then re thread the hole. Doesn't usually come out clean and neat but could be serviceable. Or after drilling all the way thru, put a nut on it.  I just like threads vs rivets.

There are SS nuts cast in to the plastic with a lump or “boss” encapsulating it. I may try drilling clean through and then sizing up the drill go take all but the threads out, then chasing it with a tap. I could overbore and nut in underneath, too. I was just hoping to save it and keep it original style.

One more thought comes to mind then I'll keep my mouth shut. The torque required to cut or clean the threads might be enough to break the nut loose in the plastic, that'd be an even uglier problem.  Nice little project to exercise the mind and hands.