Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
June 22, 2026, 07:18:16 AM

Login with username, password and session length

Recent Topics

[June 21, 2026, 09:37:27 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 05:31:46 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 05:01:05 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 04:33:06 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 04:12:35 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 03:18:06 PM]

[June 21, 2026, 09:14:42 AM]

[June 19, 2026, 09:49:48 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 09:24:12 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 07:49:09 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 07:47:25 PM]

[June 19, 2026, 08:42:23 AM]

[June 19, 2026, 07:05:08 AM]

[June 19, 2026, 05:02:11 AM]

[June 18, 2026, 06:59:04 PM]

[June 18, 2026, 05:48:32 PM]

[June 18, 2026, 10:20:30 AM]

[June 17, 2026, 09:17:11 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 07:32:39 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 07:28:28 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 04:56:55 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 03:38:12 PM]

[June 16, 2026, 02:34:57 PM]

Support NCKA

Support the site by making a donation.

Topic: house foundation repair  (Read 1368 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12995
For a mountain house, ours is reasonably well constructed overall. But there is a part that was a later addition that is not so great. Before we moved in, the dirt had piled up on the corner of this section, leading to the rot in the main beam shown in the pictures. I've built a massive retaining wall, so the dirt is gone, and not coming back. Now it's time to deal with the beam.

I'd like to replace the entire beam with concrete or steel, but that's a bigger job than I want to do (or pay for). So, we'll probably try to repair it. The beam is 7.5" deep and 10" high, and we'll need to cut out 24" in length (maybe 30" max). I'd like to use pressure treated lumber.

Any suggestions on the best way to go about this? Thanks.
I don't like stuff that sucks.
    --- Butt-Head


Greenhorn

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Fish-a-yak-a-fowl-a-holic
  • Location: Petaluma
  • Date Registered: Jun 2016
  • Posts: 374
Ideally! You would cut out the whole length at once and replace whole length... You will need cribbing to support that side of the house. This is best left for a professional. You need a bottle Jacks and some blocks. You need to temp. Support that side of the house while R&R the rotten section. If you get stuck PM ME, maybe I can explain better over the phone.
Fish,hunt,eat sleep REPEAT
15' Hobie outback


NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12995
Ideally! You would cut out the whole length at once and replace whole length... You will need cribbing to support that side of the house. This is best left for a professional. You need a bottle Jacks and some blocks. You need to temp. Support that side of the house while R&R the rotten section. If you get stuck PM ME, maybe I can explain better over the phone.

Thanks for the info. I was thinking about trying to do it piecemeal to avoid the need to jack up the house. I can't believe there's much support in the corner now anyway, so I'd start there and work towards the good wood. Anyways, I don't see how to do it all in one fell swoop, since I'm not going to find a beam that size...
I don't like stuff that sucks.
    --- Butt-Head


NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12995
Btw, if there is somebody you'd recommend for work like this, let me know. I think I need to get some idea of what it'd cost to get it done right.
I don't like stuff that sucks.
    --- Butt-Head


Greenhorn

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Fish-a-yak-a-fowl-a-holic
  • Location: Petaluma
  • Date Registered: Jun 2016
  • Posts: 374
Where is it located? You would want to support it either way before removing anything, could make it worse. Old buildings stay together well. You can either have local lumber yard "mill" you a 8x10 or mill it down either way it will be "special order". If your local I can assist... I am a journeyman carpenter, we'll know I'm a supervisor in public works. But I've built remoled several houses...you stated it was a mountain house? That may be a fun adventure
Fish,hunt,eat sleep REPEAT
15' Hobie outback


polepole

  • Administrator
  • *****
  • Kayak Fishing Magazine
  • Location: San Jose, CA
  • Date Registered: Dec 2004
  • Posts: 13201
I feel your pain.  I got about 30' of my full height basement foundation being replaced right now. Check out fairburnindustries.com, and contact [email protected].  I'm at least the 3rd house on my block that they've done foundation work on.

-Allen


MikeinFresno

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Date Registered: Jul 2010
  • Posts: 831
I used to do termite repair such as this. It does take bottle jacks and a way to get under it as the easiest way for a raised construction, but this looks like it is a concrete slab in the pics. You will have to support the building while you remove the bad. Then you have to get it back the right height to put the new piece in and get it all level. We would laminate several pieces together and custom cut the size. Then bevel the edges so as to make it go in easier at angle and use a 3 lb sledge to persuade it into place. It doable, but will take you to get out of your comfort zone to make it happen. Figure a way to hold/lift the building and the rest is easier.


Pacific

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Rescue
  • Date Registered: Apr 2014
  • Posts: 589
If you are around the Sacramento area  to Jackson my Brother does that kind of work.



NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12995
Thanks for all of the info. The main part of the house is on a slab, but for this addition there are just some footings at the ends of the beam. The footing has been extended a bit on this end, so that's why it looks like a slab in the pictures. There is not much space below the joists (like 6"), but the access is not bad. Anyways, I think I'll try to get a couple quotes before doing anything myself.
I don't like stuff that sucks.
    --- Butt-Head


Pacific

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Rescue
  • Date Registered: Apr 2014
  • Posts: 589
What area do you live in?


NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12995
What area do you live in?

Just off of 17, between Los Gatos and Scotts Valley.
I don't like stuff that sucks.
    --- Butt-Head


Otter

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Oakland
  • Date Registered: Apr 2009
  • Posts: 1096
Definitely piecemeal the structural beams that's a very good idea!

😄
Just kidding...

Get some quotes and see what you are up against. It's not rocket science by any means but if you have to ask how than you probably shouldn't.

Just my advice. Save your energy for painting or tile or landscaping or whatever.

-Eliot


Fisherman X

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Going to the ocean is going home
  • Location: Mendo Locos
  • Date Registered: Sep 2007
  • Posts: 8095
Been there, done that.  First one was in Fairfax in 1977. I believe you want a professional so as not to create potential additional issues.

You want screw jacks, IMO, not bottle jacks, much more stable and purpose built for this work. Here are comparison pics - screw jack is the first one.
« Last Edit: July 18, 2016, 09:07:56 PM by Fisherman X »
-Success is living the life you want-
Joel ><>

-You’re just gonna shoot the first perch you see CdM


MikeinFresno

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Date Registered: Jul 2010
  • Posts: 831
we used screw jacks in the 70's when I was doing it, they lift and HOLD


Pacific

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Rescue
  • Date Registered: Apr 2014
  • Posts: 589
Be careful if you do it yourself, you  dont want to end up like the wicked witch of the West.


 

anything