Adventure Island Gas Engine Mount

I love how innovative some of you here are on the forum, but wouldn't a used 12' Klamath cost around the same as a new motor and i think would be a little safer? Just saying. Id love to read your tuna reports on your powerd ai but gas motor in such tight quarters.im just always a little cautious

There's nothing safe about taking a 12 foot Klamath in the ocean.

yeah thats true but you'll have a little more room to place the gas tank.

I love how innovative some of you here are on the forum, but wouldn't a used 12' Klamath cost around the same as a new motor and i think would be a little safer? Just saying. Id love to read your tuna reports on your powerd ai but gas motor in such tight quarters.im just always a little cautious

There's nothing safe about taking a 12 foot Klamath in the ocean.

double post

Sounds like you are just setting yourself up for a headache down the road or should I say the waterway.  The State of California will want its fee. http://www.dbw.ca.gov/Pubs/Abc/registration.pdf

Registering an AI is required anyways so why not add to its range.

I usually sit towards the mirage drive in order to front-load the AI. I use plumber's tape to seal the rear hatch and most of the water comes in from the rudder line holes. It's not too bad and I usually get a lot of water when an AI is turned into a TI or when the conditions are really sloppy (usually out for crabs and it's a quick pick-up trip).

The honda 2.3HP must be really under powered. I might get 8mph if I'm lucky at full throttle. I just picked up a 6HP nissan and would love to use it on the AI, but there's a limit to what a kayak motor mount will support (60# vs ~30#).

GL, Scott. I've had mine for about 2 years and love the versatility of the setup. No worries about having to trailer a boat and limiting your speed on the hwy (and boat lauch fees, etc.).

Well this has turned out to be quite the little project. Added a straight SS bracket where the engine mount pushes on the base of the AKA cross bar foot. Two SS angle brackets reinforce the connection between the PatR  mount and the engine mount. A SS pad eye attaches the turnbuckle to the mount. Two coats of marine epoxy and 2 coats of spar varnish so far. Some fish decal art from Andrea Larko and HOW. Only a couple more days left on the project. 

Nice work.  I bookmarked this thread with the hopes of doing something similar before the summer.

I am installing a bilge pump to deal with the water issue.

Nice detailing Scott.  Will you be able to pull a couple other AIs that are motorless?

No pun intended.

The bilge pump exits through the center hatch. I added 1/4" HDPE plates where the engine contacts the mount.

Thanks for sharing your idea Scott.   Someday I'll rig my AI the same way.

I have a screwdriver, allen wrench and gut and gill knife mounted on the lid of my Plano box. I also have my boat registration attached in a water proof pouch.

Raydon rags on me on how many Scotty mounts I have so here it is:

2 flush mounts forward cockpit
3 PatR mounts Port aka bar
1 PatR mount starboard aka bar
3 PatR mounts rear aka cross bar
2 mounts and 1 flush mount Plano box lid

Total 12 Scotty mounts.

  Looks like a fun project Scott.     It looks like you have to open the hatch for the bilge pump to discharge.  Is that correct?      Would it be better to install a through hull fitting with a check valve?   Last thing you'd want in an emergency type situation is to have the hatch open when you're trying to get water out.

Excellent job on that motor mount Scott you got some wood working skills  :jaw drop
PatR

  Looks like a fun project Scott.     It looks like you have to open the hatch for the bilge pump to discharge.  Is that correct?      Would it be better to install a through hull fitting with a check valve?   Last thing you'd want in an emergency type situation is to have the hatch open when you're trying to get water out.

I thought about using an automatic bilge pump with a through hull output but they are more expensive and the web reviews were not very good as far as reliability. The design I came up with is to deal with the 1 gallon/hour front hatch leak under sloppy conditions or under sail and the rear hatch and rudder cable hole leak under motor power. It isn't designed for a hull breach scenario although the battery box, switch and pump are fully submersible. I currently have to open the middle hatch to use my hand pump. I placed the pump under the rear tankwell because under motor power, the water will accumulate there first since the stern is lower than the bow. I bet your Raptor would be a blast with a gas engine.