Broken Pedal Shaft

I also plan to replace my pedal arms with stainless steel.  The corrosion on those stock aluminum arms is common issue.

Al, sorry to hear about your problem, but glad to see that Hobie took care of you.

I rinse the hell out of mine after saltwater use. If the drive get dragged in the sand I fill up a plastic trash can with water and let sit it in there for a day.  Most the sand comes off and settles at the bottom.  So far so good after owning 4 Hobies.

Hobie still has a stock of their older arms for the Mirage drive. These are threaded for bike pedals and I believe are more solid. Hobie plastic pedals are OK but probably not near as effective for propulsion as a decent set of  mountain bike clip ins or even flats. A conversion is on my short term agenda for my 2012 Adventure.

Hi

I did a diy Hobie drive arm construction. It did involve some time but less than ten bucks in materials.

First. Hobie has a stock of the older solid aluminum arms with standard bike  threading.  Part numbers are, 81105001 right and 81100001 left. Price is $31.00 per arm.   

A good non slip stiff pedal and stiff shoe sole will transmit pedaling energy better than Hobie's stock plastic into forward motion.

So: I purchased 30 inches of 3/4 by3/4 inch thick walled marine grade aluminum from a metal recycle center for seven bucks. A square oak shaft just a hair larger than the aluminum channel was cut on the table saw. The oak about 14 inches long was driven by hammer the length of the bar. This strengthens and also totally waterproofs the inside of the drive arm. Next the arms were cut to 13 1/4 inches, same as stock arms. Bolt and pin attachment holes were drilled. Old bike crank arms were cut, drilled and threaded for 1/4 SS bolts. Everything was beveled and polished and will be painted.

I bike a lot so had plenty of spare pedals/shoes bike parts to start with.

That's pretty much it and I'll let you know when I test the clip on pedals on the Adventure next week.


Charles

^^Looks solid.  Nice job.

My other pedal broke last week.  That's both pedals in less than 10 months on a brand new 2012 Outback with turbo fins.  Greg at Pacific Outfitters was able to give me the pedal when I went in, but I don't want to deal with having no mirage drive when I'm 5 miles or more offshore.  I may just have to have extra parts and a tool box like I have in my powerboat.  Never had a problem with my Xfactor and I can paddle it almost as fast as my Outback when peddling.

Great job... Charles.  Thanks for posting it.  I also have a bunch of mtb and road bike pedals and crank arms that I can use if I do something similar.  I know aluminum arms are lighter and cheaper, but I think stainless steel will last longer in the salt, especially for strong pedalers.

Thanks for the responses.

I could only find 1/16 walled SS so went with the thicker walled aluminum. The scrap yard did have solid 3/4x3/4 SS but drilling or tapping that might be a machine shop project.

Last summer a couple miles offshore my right pedal retaining nut loosened up to where the pedal became seriously sloppy. Didn't realize what the problem was until it was taken apart and at that point I decided that Hobie, who does most things very well, could have done better with the pedal and pedal assembly system for the mirage drive.

Charles

^^Looks solid.  Nice job.

My other pedal broke last week.  That's both pedals in less than 10 months on a brand new 2012 Outback with turbo fins.  Greg at Pacific Outfitters was able to give me the pedal when I went in, but I don't want to deal with having no mirage drive when I'm 5 miles or more offshore.  I may just have to have extra parts and a tool box like I have in my powerboat.  Never had a problem with my Xfactor and I can paddle it almost as fast as my Outback when peddling.

dam! You guys go out 5 or more miles offshore, damyou guys are brave

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