Installing Lowrance HDS 5 into Hobie Pro Angler

Wondering if anyone else has run across this problem. I just got a Lowrance HDS 5 gen2 fish finder to put into my new Pro Angler. The yak is all 'Fish Finder' ready with all the through hull wires and bottom transducer access. My problem is that Lowrance has bundled a data cable onto the power cable so I have three cables to route (power, data, and transducer) and the Pro angler hull plugs will only accept 2 cables max.

So...I have to either drill another hole to accommodate the extra cable or cut off the data cable portion. I dont plan on adding structure scan any time soon (I might if it were a bigger screen, but do see a huge need for the structure scan with a small 5" screen...).

I called Lowrance to see if they offer a power cable with no data cable attached and they say no. I think my best bet is to just cut off the data cable near where the plug screws into the unit and goop the cut end with silicone. Before I do the surgery, just wanted to throw this out and get any feedback...maybe there's another way that I'm missing....sure dont want to drill any more holes into the boat then I have to.

-Murf

I don't understand.  Doesn't the Pro Angler have the wire caps that accommodate just about any wire setup?



It would seem like you should have to drill anything as long as you use the correct insert, or jimmy rig one of your own. 

Their wire caps only accept 2 cables (max) per port.  You would need to install 2 port/caps.

I would drill an extra hole before clipping a wire. 

Plus, Structure Scan would require a 4th cable installation to the head unit (ethernet).  If you haven't seen the transducer for Structure Scan, you would soon realize it is impracticle for any of us to unstall it on a kayak.  It must be in the water, it is about 2" wide x 1" thick by about 12" long!  Just spent the last 4 days playing with the unit & the transducer on the water!  It is AWESOME though!

I will add this as a "comfort".  The 'Data' cable that is attached as part of the 'Power' cable, is older NMAA 0183.  Since the HDS 5 Gen 2 has a port for NMEA2000 (the backbone), the 'Data' portion of the cable really isn't needed.  That is, typically, only used for networking with older technology data systems on larger boats.  So, in my opinion, not needed on a kayak.  I will be clipping & capping my 'Data' wire off on the final installation of my Lowrance Elite 7 HDI.  On a good note, the DSI fills almost all the needs for scanning.

I would drill an extra hole before clipping a wire. 

Me too... or just whittle some material off the cap adjacent to where the rubber plug goes to accommodate the extra wire.  A little goop and it will be waterproof without screwing up your cable.  Down the road, you could certainly replace the wire cap more cheaply than the wire itself.  Furthermore, people worry WAY to much about drilling in their yak.  A hole for a wire with a grommet around it and a little sealant is going to be way more water tight than the front hatch on a hobie anyway.  Srewing up an expensive cable would be the last way I would handle it.

Let me elaborate my position.  With a unit of that level my thinking would be that I may someday move it to a powerboat or potentially sell it.  Having to replace the wiring at that point would be annoying and expensive, assuming it were even still available, when you could have simply made some extra space in the wire cap to accommodate it.

Thanks Bill! I think I'll clip that wire off and be done with it. Cant wait to get out on the water and try it out. Looks like I'll hit Lake Almanor again on the 9th...cant wait.

I took it out to Almanor once already and really thought about where things need to be and what will work before cutting into the hull.

I still need to rig all the electrical...this is fun stuff...really loving putting it all together. I have a Ritchie compass and bilge pump to install yet (three gang fuse/switch plate for GPS, bilge and compass/lights) battery box, etc., ...thinking about maybe doing some strip lights under the side rails to get some light into my work area (this might be pimping it a little too far but would be nice to have light and hands free for early morning launches).

I think I'll mount the switches to the right side (same side I'll mount the fish finder to)...easier reach and most water that came into the Yak was from over the bow to the front (would like to keep the switches as dry as possible even though its waterproof)

I have a 12ah gel battery and waterproof box for it. Thinking of keep most weight to the center of the yak so maybe mounting the battery as close to the seat (somewhere) as possible. Maybe behind the seat forward from that rear access hatch.

Its coming together for sure...I still need to get together a 'mass' storage area that will fit behind the Hobie live well that I can put everything else into (like a milk crate everyone seems to be doing)...wondering about how difficult it will be to get at though and if it will be within reach...I want to keep the forward storage open for fish or ice...(beer)

Bilge pump. I have a manual backup, but does anyone have suggestions on a good brand 12v electric? I think I want the 'exit' water to go out the back of the yak (maybe high above one of the drain plugs) I've seen some Youtube examples that seem to pour water back into the boat for scuppers to drain....this seems silly to me....wouldn't it be better to get it completely out of the boat?) I do see a seam that separates the top and bottom of the yak (I guess during the molding process) I wonder if it would be wise not to cut over this seam just for strength reasons as this seam might be a weak point....I'm probably over thinking this stuff...

Thanks for all the input!

-Murf

I would forgo the electric bilge pump, and install pool noodles to keep you afloat while you manually pump the thing out.  You have a ton of cool ideas, but you are also right that you may be over pimping the thing.  A headlamp will work fine for giving you light to see with.  One of the beauties of kayak fishing is its simplicity.  The more crap you put on it, the more crap you have to not work in the morning, and when you should be out fishing having fun, you will be spending your time worrying why your this that and the other thing isn't working properly.

Worst case, if you ever NEED the NMEA 0183, you just buy a new power cord & be done with it!  But I see no need for it.....

However, now that I am thinking of it... My outback at the rear near the rudder has a treaded drain plug.  If there is one on the PA perhaps that could be an exit point for your bilge pump?  I'm assuming the outflow for the bilge would have a check valve on it to keep water from entering the whole without the plug installed.

I'd rethink the need for the switch panel to be honest.  Simplicity & there isn't a need for a switch for the GPS/FF since they have a power button.  Just install an in-line fust to prevent any "issues".

Bill

It's not a seam along side the kayak, it's where the top and bottom mold halves meet. The plastic is all one piece. Defiantly get a good check valve for the outlet. I would do some small red LEDs under the boards, and skip the buildge pump. Maybe even make up some teak custom boards for her

It's not a seam along side the kayak, it's where the top and bottom mold halves meet. The plastic is all one piece. Defiantly get a good check valve for the outlet. I would do some small red LEDs under the boards, and skip the buildge pump. Maybe even make up some teak custom boards for her

if you do light, red is the way to go for sure so as to preserve your night vision.