Lowrance dsi install

I agree with GB2. When I was shopping for a new 5 inch color FF, I called Lowrance technical support direct.  I was told told that DSI transducers need to outside the kayak to get the best signal.

HB makes a unit and ducer designed for shoot thru the hull. Look there for DSI models.

On my Elite 4-DSI the difference was quite noticable using the scupper mount vs the in-hull mount.  However I only tried that on the RTM K-Largo, which had a scupper port that worked perfectly for it.  Downside for me was I use the same FF on all my yaks, so needs to be portable.  I've stuck with the duct seal waterbath method and though it's sensitivity is decreased, it's still pretty impressive and works fine for me.  Up until about 120 fow that is, and then I cant really mark anything but structure on the bottom.

On my outback I have done a homemade scupper mount that goes thru one of the scuppers under the seat.  On the outback the scuppers exit the hull in a fairly deep channel which provides the transducer with a good amount of protection.  The mirage drive does show up in the surface clutter when the unit is in a shallow depth range.  As far as drag, it is not noticeable... and as far as kelp or weed beds it is far less of an issue than the mirage drive itself.

With the DSI transducer being long and narrow I could see how that might work on an OB.  Do you have any pics of your setup you can share?  My main issue is still the portability, but it could be solved by buying another transducer, or two 

I'm actually thinking rudder mount with a DSI transducer.  Trying to work on a machineable design that would make the mount more "universal"

I have an Elite 5 DSI on my kayak, (Prowler 13.)  I went with a through hull set up so I don't have to worry about damaging my transducer.  It works perfectly and I have no degredation of signal issues.

I started by following the duct seal suggestion.  I made the four walls of my duct seal transducer housing and filled the cavity with vaseline, then pushed my transducer in all the way to the hull and covered with more duct seal.  It worked great for a couple weeks then eventually fell off in transport leaving a pretty good mess inside my yak.

I then followed the marine epoxy suggestion and haven't looked back.  I used a two part marine grade epoxy.  I roughed the area with a heavy grit sand paper and made extra sure to not allow any air bubbles between the transducer and the hull.  It's been on for over a year and I don't have a single complaint.  My temp readings are as good as any through hull set up, (takes about 5-10 minutes for the transducer to cool and read fairly accurate surface temp) and my resolution is excellent.

I recomend the epoxy and careful attention to avoid air bubbles.

Here are some pictures I snapped. Everything is done except for the final mounting on the hull.

Before I get slammed, if u are looking at where the cable runs our, I did goop the hell out of it after I snapped these pics. Currently waiting to dry before I mount.
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Also, I wanted to mount the xducer from the middle hatch right under my seat. Since I've read about the mirage drive interfering with the sonar, would mounting it in the front hatch behind the sail mast be a better idea? I just felt having the sonar as far back from the bow as possible is better. Input is welcome

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Mines in the bow. I think as long as its not so far forward it comes above the water line when you paddle or in choppy water it's ok.

Also, I wanted to mount the xducer from the middle hatch right under my seat. Since I've read about the mirage drive interfering with the sonar, would mounting it in the front hatch behind the sail mast be a better idea? I just felt having the sonar as far back from the bow as possible is better. Input is welcome

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Its a bit of a balancing act.  In the front, you will not have any mirage drive issues from my experience.  In the middle, you may get some interference, but it really isn't a big deal.  It only shows up as surface clutter, which there is always some of anyway.  Furthermore, in the middle hatch it is much easier to add water on the water if you need to.

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Its a bit of a balancing act.  In the front, you will not have any mirage drive issues from my experience.  In the middle, you may get some interference, but it really isn't a big deal.  It only shows up as surface clutter, which there is always some of anyway.  Furthermore, in the middle hatch it is much easier to add water on the water if you need to.
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Great points

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marine grade epoxy also requires no water. 

At the end of the day, my final conclusion is this.  At least in terms of standard 2D units... there is very little difference in signal quality between epoxy, wet wells, and scupper mounts.  There however is one huge advantage to the scupper mount... and that is accurate surface temp readings.  In certain types of fishing and target species... it is a really crucial bit of information to have.

I think I will follow up by stating that the DSI is an almost MUST outside of hull.  I'm eagerly awaiting a DSI unit to test this theory of inside vs. outside hull transducer install.