Yak-zilla - My Prowler 13T Project

You can always drill a lower exhaust hole so the water level doesn't get too high.

Check out how my Shimano bait bag is set up to adjust the water level. It's posted on the Live Well thread...


http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,28285.msg304309.html#msg304309

Like where you put your compass But question the placement of your gps. It  can get in the way when you try to secure a big sturgeon, ling or halibut. IMO, the area between your legs should be free of any clutter. Just think of it as your work space

I'm also interested on how you'll be able to roll back your kayak with the live tankwell filling up with water - just some scenarios to think about before heading out to sea or even in the Bay.

...just my 2 cents.

 IMO, the area between your legs should be free of any clutter. Just think of it as your work space

Oh Mooch. I got jokes backing up on this one!

But question the placement of your gps...

I got that GPS ram mount before actually deciding which electronics to use, since my Garmin has GPS, I will probably carry that on my PDF, along with my radio.

... how you'll be able to roll back your kayak with the live tankwell filling up with water

I thought of that and spoke to some fellow yak'rs and i'm now really "iffy" on the livewell tank project. I actually return that big ole "pet food storage' container yesterday and I am currently researching other options. Maybe the smaller size container or one that you drag behind/alongside the yak; still debating what to do.....

Thanks for your 2 cents; I need as much as I can get!

dont give up on it.......it will only be dangerous if it is full /super heavy.......drifting around Ala.Rockwall or Paradise or a lake and you aint in any Real_Serious danger. 

I agree.  Mine was only a problem because it was full.  I still find the bait tube a really good alternative when minimizing the load.

Love your setup!! You got some great ideas that you were able to tinker with; I'm looking forward to seeing your continued project. Thanks for sharing and please do continue to update us with your Yak-zilla 

Actually just ordered a "round" plastic tank; hopefully it will help keep anchovies alive longer by allowing them to swim in a circle (like at the Monterey Aquarium). Should be here next week...

Got one question (maybe two):

1.) What's the difference between a "Livewell Pump" and a "Aerator Pump"?

2.) How high above the waterline can you mount the pump without having to use a primer?

thanks,
glen

here's the finished hatch cover with my new logo:
{edit} had to change the location and type of material use for the decal, nothing didn't seem to want to stick on that hatch cover...

Now on to the transducer:
- Because the Garmin transducer is slightly wider then most, I had to search for a larger 'pool noodle'; unfortunately, they don't make one. Ended up buying at Walmart ($14.99) on of those exercise thingys that were made of the same material; everywhere else they ran about $25-30.

- Next I cut off a section and shaped it to match the contour of the hull using a bandsaw and belt sander.

- I was able to push the center section out, which made it easier to cut out the shape of the transducer on the bandsaw.

- marked off the location in the hull for installation and sanded down the area which would be goop'd.

- Applied goop to both surfaces and weigh'd it down to cure.

Now all i have to do is add some water, insert the transducer and I "should" be good to go.

Actually just ordered a "round" plastic tank; hopefully it will help keep anchovies alive longer by allowing them to swim in a circle (like at the Monterey Aquarium). Should be here next week...

Got one question (maybe two):

1.) What's the difference between a "Livewell Pump" and a "Aerator Pump"?

2.) How high above the waterline can you mount the pump without having to use a primer?

thanks,
glen

here's the finished hatch cover with my new logo:

1) Aerator pumps blow bubbles into the water similar to how an home aquarium pump would work.  These work fine for hardy baits like minnows, mudsuckers, shiners or smelt.
Livewell pumps draw water in from the ocean/lake and circulate it into the tank.  Keeps a steady supply of fresh oxygenated water in the tank.  In circular tanks they create a   flow for the bait to swim against and keeps em calm and stable instead of bashing into each other going in random directions. 

2) Never tested to see how high above the waterline you can get with them..mine have all been below.   


 

That is a sick setup...soooo clean and tidy.  Any thought to heat generation from that battery being in the enclosed foam case?  Probably not much of an issue if you're coastal, but in the 115-degree heat of the summer I've always liked to let mine breathe as much as possible.

-beenfishin

Any thought to heat generation from that battery being in the enclosed foam case? 

That was actually the first thing I tested when i was done the the battery case; I actually took a thermal gun to the battery prior to charging, during and after; very nominal increase to the inside temperature, only 2 degrees after a couple hours of charging.

Plus, I only plan to charge from the external port outdoors or over-night while camping... hopefully that won't cause to much of an increase in temperature.

Now to complete the rear section of the anchor trolly; and install an access panel for use on the future installation of the rudder.

I wanted to ensure the the rear pulley on the anchor trolley had a re-enforced washer, I had to get to the inside of the rear hull; only way was to install an access plate at the rear of the storage well.

After centering the hatch, I marked off 6 references marks through the 6 screw holes and then located the center by intersecting the 3 diameter lines.

Next using a scribe compass, marked of the diameter to be cut. I used a dremel plastic cutter bit to removed the majority of the area and then came back with a dremel sanding disc to clean the cut down the circumfrence of the drawn circle; took just enough off to install the hatch snuggly in the opening, hopefully this will limit any access water may have inside. (All screw holes I drilled, throughout the entire boat, were also drilled slightly smaller than the machine screw thread diameter and 'tapped' into the plastice to limit the any extra space water may want to seep through.) Added silicon to the back of the hatch plate, mounted and screwed down.

Sweet installations on you new kayak. As brought up before on another install ....you may want to be able to trolley your anchor as far back as possible if you are going to anchor in the bay on a huge tide.

Damn, the screws on the rear hatch are off center. Looks good. For anchoring in the bay on a smokin outgo you will need your anchor right at the rear. Just use a slingshot method for that. Looks great. I put my transducer in the scupper and its been there for 2 years with no problems at all. Then the rod pod is free to be stuffed.