Speaking of water heaters

 
   This mornings shower was not as warm as it should have been.    We have an electric water heater, and the top of it, which is normally warm (Fav spot for our cats) was not warm at all.  Bummer.  I'm immediately thinking the worst, the element(s) is crusted over and not able to heat any longer.  The heater is a 50 gal dual element 1500W top and 5500W lower heating element.  Fortunately each element has a small controller and reset button and the lower element needed to be reset!
   This heater is a 1981 model so I suspect it won't last much longer. Something happened to cause the reset to pop, and I think the heating elements are in fact crusted/corroded, and may be over temping causing the reset to trip. 
    We have a tankless (propane)water heater coming in the next couple weeks so I hope the electric will last at least that long.   If not, the manual does list part numbers for replacement elements, hopefully Sears still stocks (Or can get) them

  For now, we have hot water again

Troy

Try to purchase a model of water heater that qualifies for the new federal tax credit of 30% of the job cost up to $1500.00. If you're going tankless make sure the installer adds the isolator valve kit so you can easily flush out the heat exchanger once a year to prevent scaling and the consequent loss in efficiency. I am looking at picking up a Noritz condensing tankless WH which gets 93% efficiency. There is also a tanked, has a 50 gal conventional glass tank, high efficiency 96% AFUE super condensing water heater made by A.O.Smith called the vortex or vertex if you wanted to stick with a tanked model. Hope this helps. jim

1981....You've gotten your money's worth from that one.

Jim, sounds like you got the intel on tankless. I am looking to making the switch from a tank model (expect a PM from me soon). While were on the subject any NCKA plumbers out there looking for a side job?

  We have a tankless (propane)water heater coming in the next couple weeks so
Troy

Before you get the new one and go to install it you might want to check the gas supply line coming in because most tankless natural & LP require a 3/4" gas connection while a standard water heater only req. 1/2".  This way your not   after you get it in there and mounted.

 
  My place was a summer cabin and the propane tanks that supplied the stove were 2 small 10gal tanks.  I had a 285gal tank installed and outlets in the 3/4" gas line installed at various places just for a tankless and any other future use of propane.
  The tankless were getting is a Rheem(?)  good for 2 uses, and because we signed up for a locked in price of propane for 3yrs (@$1.49/gal.  We were paying between  $2.79-$2.97/gal!)  The propane company is giving us the tankless.
   My last house, I completely re plumbed,with copper, got rid of the 30gal leaking water heater and installed a tankless so I think I'm going to try the install myself to save expense.  I have a location in mind for the heater and a propane connection at that place.  The water supply and hot water connection to the house might take some thought.  This house has 3/4" galvi pipe and it's going on 40+yrs old.  I'm comfortable at most DIY projects and some plumbing but messing with that old galvi piping?  Well I'll see when the time comes.

  Thanks for the suggestion!

Troy

This house has 3/4" galvi pipe and it's going on 40+yrs old.  I'm comfortable at most DIY projects and some plumbing but messing with that old galvi piping?  Well I'll see when the time comes.

If you do end up plumbing it your self buy a can of Rectorseal 5, the stuffs worth its weight in gold on galv. fittings.

Power to the DIY'ers!  Rectorseal is indeed magical stuff - sandwich a teflon tape wrap between two coats of it and you're Golden.  And thanks for not calling it a "hot water heater".   

Troy,

When the tank in our water heater blew (because the pressure regulator that had been holding back 160psi for 10 years failed) I had to undo all the 3/4" galvanized piping that had been untouched for almost 20 years. When I tried to loosen them with regular (homeowner) sized pipe wrenchs, they wouldn't budge. Luckily I also have the mondo pipe wrench, almost 30" long, weighs more than 10 pounds. I had my daughter's boyfriend come over and while he held the pipe elbows with the regular pipe wrench, I used mondo boy and lo and behold, they broke free.

Rich

We have an Aquastar that is about due for a flushing out.  What do you use? 

Isn't the Aquastar tankless?

I have heard that in areas with really hard water, they can lime up, but don't know how to actually flush them.  I know they recommend phosphate media filters on the inlet side, or  plumb the house with a soft water system.

 
Rich,

  Yeah my fear is that I won't be able to break loose any of the pipe.  I don't have a "Mon do" sized pipe wrench, but the one I do have is maybe 2' (or real close to it in length) and a few of the normal sized pipe wrenches.  I've had a occasion to try breaking free an elbow at my water meter box.  About a year ago on my way out to work, my front door was getting wet.  Water was SPRAYING out of the water meter box.  WTH! after enduring a thourough second (cold) shower I was able to turn the supply off.  After calling my local water dept. and telling them there was a water leak, they determined it was my responsibility due to the cracked pipe was after the water meter
  I tried everything I could think of to remove that stubborn cracked piece, but that crap was SOLID.  Tried heating, tapping (which turned into pounding) I would have tried freezing it if I has some liquid nitrogen!  Had to break down and call a plumber.  (That hurt!) but it got fixed.

We just got a Rheem tankless installed and after tax credits and other incentives it wasn't too bad price wise.  The water takes about 5-10 seconds longer to warm up, but not having to worry about taking a cold shower after my wife has taken a 20 minute shower is priceless.  We haven't had it long enough to compare our gas bills, but in theory it should be about 10-20% less each month.

Portland has unusually soft water, so adding a water softener wasn't necessary.

Brian

Bumping this thread because in further researching the brand, Navien, that I was formerly considering buying I discovered too many negative reviews and also that the distributor that was going to carry it decided not to.

Looking at getting the Noritz NRC111dv after going to an installer's seminar on Noritz this week. Will post back details after install. jim

 
   Bsteve, have you had a chance to compare your gas savings with the new tankless?  After I installed my tankless way back when I noticed an immediate drop in my gas useage. I can't recall the exact figures now, (Over 5yrs back) but I do remember after seeing the bill after the install, it was down enough for me to applaud the install!
  I think I have my new Reehm at home now, (There in CA.) I'll get to see it when I fly home for visit in 9 days!