Car Question

HERE ARE THE PICTURES!!!
OBVIOUSLY the first ones are the front.... the second pic is the rear....

NCK---

You've gotten competent suggestions from the posts here:

Scores in rotors or drums NEVER originate with the drum or the rotor.
ALWAYS....scores come from the braking material or it's rivets/clips/defects.

It's VERY likely that your emergency brake (as AbDiver suggests) is causing the rears to bind.  When an emergency brake holds friction surfaces in permanent contact, immense heat builds up ... even to the point of melting the friction surface(s).

So now Tote's suggestion kicks in.
It's under warranty and you know what's causing the problem.
Mal-adjustment of ANY part of the car is under warranty coverage.

Take it in and tell them to fix it.
What they will have to "fix" is:
1) Adjust the emegency brake cable linkage
2) Replace both rear brake rotors
3) Replace both rear brake pads
3) inspect all related hardware for heat-damage

Judd

NCK---

You've gotten competent suggestions from the posts here:

Scores in rotors or drums NEVER originate with the drum or the rotor.
ALWAYS....scores come from the braking material or it's rivets/clips/defects.

It's VERY likely that your emergency brake (as AbDiver suggests) is causing the rears to bind.  When an emergency brake holds friction surfaces in permanent contact, immense heat builds up ... even to the point of melting the friction surface(s).

So now Tote's suggestion kicks in.
It's under warranty and you know what's causing the problem.
Mal-adjustment of ANY part of the car is under warranty coverage.

Take it in and tell them to fix it.
What they will have to "fix" is:
1) Adjust the emegency brake cable linkage
2) Replace both rear brake rotors
3) Replace both rear brake pads
3) inspect all related hardware for heat-damage

Judd

She's goin in at 9:30 and I 'll definately have them do that.  But question - if I very rarely use my E-Brake, like... as in little to never.... can this still cause it?

Sure....because YOU are not responsible for THIS use.

The E-brake linkage-cable(s) are improperly adjusted....too tightly.

So THEY are holding the brakes in contact at all times.

Judd

Sure....because YOU are not responsible for THIS use.

The E-brake linkage-cable(s) are improperly adjusted....too tightly.

So THEY are holding the brakes in contact at all times.

Judd

PERFECT   Thank you for your help!  At least I'm going in with more knowledge now than before! 

Alright, so the dealer says that the brakes aren't covered under warranty because it's normal wear and tear.  So how do I go about getting them to take care of this..... because this ISN'T normal wear and tear.   

Michelle,

You need to speak with the dealership's Service Manager or their General Manager.

Rear rotor damage in a 1 year old car is NOT normal wear. The front rotors are showing normal wear. The front brakes account for almost 80% of the stopping power. Therefore, how can deeply scored rear rotors be considered normal? The  answer is they can't, they are trying to get over on you..

If you don't get satisfaction with talking to the two people mentioned above, step it up to their national consumer line..

Good luck Michelle.

Rich

Bad news turned GREAT!

Starting out the dealership said that brakes aren't covered under the warranty and are normal wear and tear. They said they would take it out and see what the problem was.  I said that if this is "normal" all original parts must be saved (thank you brian g) so I can file a claim through Honda (thank you pms).

They called back to tell me that they didn't know the cause of the problem but would cover it "anyways".  They asked if I wanted to replace the pads while it was taken apart for only $80.  I refused and they called to say they will cover that also, but needed to order the parts and will provide a rental car.  (Funny how things happen).  I had called around to a couple dealers and a local car shop I know to be reliable and got some other issues it could be, and plugged those in to the service rep to have them look at it.  I also said that I STILL wanted all original parts in case this happens in the future.   

All in all a successful day.  Thank you guys for helping me and giving me a little confidence and knowledge!     MUCH appreciated.

Wow, I'm so glad that its working out for you!  NOTHING I hate more than dealing with car dealerships when you have a legitimate claim and the first thing they do is claim no responsibility...   

Wow, I'm so glad that its working out for you!  NOTHING I hate more than dealing with car dealerships when you have a legitimate claim and the first thing they do is claim no responsibility...   

Seriously!  I figured they weighed the options

a) listen to the wrath of an angry woman
b) replace brakes/pads

I figured they thought B was looking MIGHTY good

 
  So glad it's worked out for so far.  Da nerve of them wanting you to cover the $80 pads.  "AS IF"  that was gonna happen   I do understand that they have to try and save $$$ where they can, and think of all the people that don't put up a bother and just "eat it" Proud of you for sticking to your guns!

I've been a service manager for Toyota so I have a little inside knowledge and have dealt with these issues many times.  The adviser tried to charge you because he gets commission on the parts he sells.  You still really need to get to the bottom of what happened.  If I've learned one thing about these situations it's that there is always a cause.  Even when the mechanic is to lazy or inexperienced to figure it out.  Try talking to the customer relations rep at your local dealer.  He or she will take your case to the service manager.  You should really make a big stink.  The adviser tried to rip you off.  If it were me I would ask them for the customer relations number at Honda's headquarters and let them know you wont be buying their cars if you're treated this way.  Honda and Toyota are know for taking customers seriously.  It's also really important that you speak to your local dealerships manager and stress to him the fact that you want answers and don't appreciate them trying to rip you off.  I consider it stealing when an adviser charges someone, for something they don't nee.  Good Luck

I've been a service manager for Toyota so I have a little inside knowledge and have dealt with these issues many times.  The adviser tried to charge you because he gets commission on the parts he sells.  You still really need to get to the bottom of what happened.  If I've learned one thing about these situations it's that there is always a cause.  Even when the mechanic is to lazy or inexperienced to figure it out.  Try talking to the customer relations rep at your local dealer.  He or she will take your case to the service manager.  You should really make a big stink.  The adviser tried to rip you off.  If it were me I would ask them for the customer relations number at Honda's headquarters and let them know you wont be buying their cars if you're treated this way.  Honda and Toyota are know for taking customers seriously.  It's also really important that you speak to your local dealerships manager and stress to him the fact that you want answers and don't appreciate them trying to rip you off.  I consider it stealing when an adviser charges someone, for something they don't nee.  Good Luck

Thanks for the inside info!  I'll definately do that!  That's why I have always went with Honda, and my family goes with Toyota as well, so I'm taken aback by this... disturbed.  I want answers, and I don't buy the whole "we don't know why this happened", because I need to know why... you're right, there is always a reason.

Andys right on. It is "Cause and Effect". A good mechanic will find the cause. A bad or newbie mechanic will only deal with the effect and say something like" we don't know why it happened" Duh.....

Running 2 tortilla chip plants, I am forever preaching this concept to my engineering staff, I've got some hammer bangers that only know how to unbolt a bad part and bolt on a new one.

I'm really glad the effect is fixed, Michelle but go after the cause, you'll sleep better ...

Rich

I would also recommend using the parking brake aka e-brake when parking your car.  You want your car to be held stationary by the brake, not the parking latch in the transmission.  For this to work properly you must engage the parking brake before releasing the foot brake while putting the transmission in P. 

Sorry just a pet peeve. . I live on a hill and hate it when I hear the crunch when people pull their transmissions in and out of P w/o a brake engaged.