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Topic: Passport 12 rigging  (Read 31220 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

SpeedyStein

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Concord
  • Date Registered: Sep 2020
  • Posts: 2619
...I might have found a solution:
https://v-lock.com/products/v-lock-set-sb

That price of $48 seems excessive. I don't think it would be too difficult to fabricate something similar to the starboard version. Even simpler, just make a starboard base that's not (easily) removable--I always leave my DR base attached, and when not DR-ing, it makes a nice micro-table...

I was thinking about how to fabricate something similar, but for the money this seems easy.  I am mostly interested in this if I need to mount it to a vertical surface - if I have room on a flat(ish) surface, your suggestion of a piece of starboard is very likely how I will do this.

I am picking up two Cannon Easi-Trolls tomorrow (want one for my little boat too) and will have a better idea of how to mount once I have in hand.
- Kevin


NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12944
...I might have found a solution:
https://v-lock.com/products/v-lock-set-sb

That price of $48 seems excessive. I don't think it would be too difficult to fabricate something similar to the starboard version. Even simpler, just make a starboard base that's not (easily) removable--I always leave my DR base attached, and when not DR-ing, it makes a nice micro-table...

I was thinking about how to fabricate something similar, but for the money this seems easy.  I am mostly interested in this if I need to mount it to a vertical surface - if I have room on a flat(ish) surface, your suggestion of a piece of starboard is very likely how I will do this.

I am picking up two Cannon Easi-Trolls tomorrow (want one for my little boat too) and will have a better idea of how to mount once I have in hand.


It’s fairly easy to heat and bend starboard plastic. If you bend it at a right angle, you can attach the starboard to a vertical surface and have a horizontal platform to mount your DR. I’ve used this approach to mount a couple of things on my AI, LMK if you want to see pitchers…
Thoughts meander like a restless wind
Inside a letter box ...


SpeedyStein

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Concord
  • Date Registered: Sep 2020
  • Posts: 2619
...I might have found a solution:
https://v-lock.com/products/v-lock-set-sb

That price of $48 seems excessive. I don't think it would be too difficult to fabricate something similar to the starboard version. Even simpler, just make a starboard base that's not (easily) removable--I always leave my DR base attached, and when not DR-ing, it makes a nice micro-table...

I was thinking about how to fabricate something similar, but for the money this seems easy.  I am mostly interested in this if I need to mount it to a vertical surface - if I have room on a flat(ish) surface, your suggestion of a piece of starboard is very likely how I will do this.

I am picking up two Cannon Easi-Trolls tomorrow (want one for my little boat too) and will have a better idea of how to mount once I have in hand.


It’s fairly easy to heat and bend starboard plastic. If you bend it at a right angle, you can attach the starboard to a vertical surface and have a horizontal platform to mount your DR. I’ve used this approach to mount a couple of things on my AI, LMK if you want to see pitchers…

Good call on using heat to shape the starboard - I had kinda forgotten about that.  Now if I could just sort out a location, haha.
- Kevin


SpeedyStein

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Concord
  • Date Registered: Sep 2020
  • Posts: 2619
Ok, I think I have a workable solution.  I got lucky with the placement of my Scotty mount - I can nudge this right up tight to the Scotty mount and the four corner mount holes all sit on spots that can accommodate a bolt and large washer for backing.


Will pick up some stainless hardware soon and try it out. I think an M5 bolt in each corner with a large fender washer as backing should be plenty sturdy enough - I don't plan on using a ball heavier than about 4 lbs. I'm also going to shorten the boom to as short as I can go; it should only stick out a few inches from the side of the hull.

If everything goes according to plan, it should work out nicely!
- Kevin


NowhereMan

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • 44.5"/38.5#
  • YouTube Channel
  • Location: Lexington Hills (Santa Clara County)
  • Date Registered: Aug 2011
  • Posts: 12944
Ok, I think I have a workable solution.  I got lucky with the placement of my Scotty mount - I can nudge this right up tight to the Scotty mount and the four corner mount holes all sit on spots that can accommodate a bolt and large washer for backing.


Will pick up some stainless hardware soon and try it out. I think an M5 bolt in each corner with a large fender washer as backing should be plenty sturdy enough - I don't plan on using a ball heavier than about 4 lbs. I'm also going to shorten the boom to as short as I can go; it should only stick out a few inches from the side of the hull.

If everything goes according to plan, it should work out nicely!

Personally, I'd go with a full backing plate of 1/4" starboard, if possible. Also, if you could angle it forward, then you might not need to shorten the boom at all...
Thoughts meander like a restless wind
Inside a letter box ...


SpeedyStein

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Concord
  • Date Registered: Sep 2020
  • Posts: 2619
Ok, I think I have a workable solution.  I got lucky with the placement of my Scotty mount - I can nudge this right up tight to the Scotty mount and the four corner mount holes all sit on spots that can accommodate a bolt and large washer for backing.


Will pick up some stainless hardware soon and try it out. I think an M5 bolt in each corner with a large fender washer as backing should be plenty sturdy enough - I don't plan on using a ball heavier than about 4 lbs. I'm also going to shorten the boom to as short as I can go; it should only stick out a few inches from the side of the hull.

If everything goes according to plan, it should work out nicely!

Personally, I'd go with a full backing plate of 1/4" starboard, if possible. Also, if you could angle it forward, then you might not need to shorten the boom at all...

I wish I could do a solid plate backing, but there is a channel underneath the mount. If I rotate the base, the corner hangs pretty far over the edge, and the crank handle gets really close to the seat frame.  So, I kinda think this is as good as it's going to get.

Alternatively, I have one of these I could mount the plate to and just use the Scotty mount...
https://www.dickssportinggoods.com/p/scotty-universal-fish-finder-mount-20ttyunvrslfshfndfel/20ttyunvrslfshfndfel
Not sure that would study enough though.
- Kevin


SpeedyStein

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Concord
  • Date Registered: Sep 2020
  • Posts: 2619
Thinking about this further, I can probably use one long strip of starboard or aluminum as backing, which would definitely help distribute the load better than just fender washers. I can probably get a 1" wide by 8" long or so strip under the rear holes of the plate.  Leaning towards aluminum since I already have some scrap.   
- Kevin