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Topic: Help w a kayak fishing rod / reel?  (Read 3336 times)

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DarthBaiter

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I’m gonna venture into the ocean soon.  My first quarry will be a halibut. 

I have bass fishing rods.  I want an ocean dedicated fishing combo.  One multi-tasking setup.  I’m hoping a rockfish rod and Hali rod can do double duty.   

I’m comfortable w a 7-footer. 

Shop suggest a Daiwa VIP 870(?). But they didn’t have one.  Reel?   Tranx 200?  300? 

Line is what?  50lb braid? 



jremi

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depends on what you think u will be doing. for trolling, heavier fiberglass. for live bait, lighter fiberglass. fiberglass is better for these, more bend and more tough is better. for jigging, graphite for stiffness and sens.

a lot of rods can do it all and it comes down to preference, you will get a lot of suggestions. 

trolling for halibut you use 12-16oz lead depending on where and how deep so too light of a rod makes it a pain. I use a 12-20lb ugly stik bigwater conventional which is on the light side but it does double duty for me for live bait. for live bait i use 2-4oz lead so softer rods are better. So paired with the conventional i also use the spinning version of the same ugly stik. halibut can pull hard but normally do not, 2-4lbs of drag on live bait setups. for jigging u will be jigging 1-2oz of weight probably and heavy bass frog/flipping rods are really good for this paired with a bass baitcaster, just use an old one that is kind of cooked already and is ok to see saltwater, you dont really need to cast anyway.

for rockfish/ling i bring 1 fiberglass and 1 graphite and swap depending on what i want to fight fish on. the same bass jigging rod and reel can be brought with u rockfishing. the trolling rod i use also works for rockfish, i have used heavier fiberglass than that but i don't like the loss of sens. last time i brought along a salmon rod and that was a lot of fun.

i would skip the tranx and get an avet sxj as a starting point. very reliable, simple to clean, and good in the salt. if you fish often, baitcasters just don't hold up that great in the salt when kayak fishing.

40/50lb is fine, realistically nothing pulls hard enough to break that, break offs come from teeth and abrasion on line.

basically my suggestion is buy a fiberglass rod that won't blow up but is light enough to still feel bottom and fill in the gaps with an old heavy bass setup. and get an avet/saltwater conventional
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divenfish

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I am not disagreeing with jremi however here are my  dos centavos:
If you're new to ocean fishing fishing I would start with a more economical set-up than the one suggested by the shop, in case your set-up ends up in the soup. By the time you get your sea legs and feel comfortable in the ocean you'll figure out what works best for you. I would not discard the idea of repurposing some of your bass gear, rods and reels.
As far as line goes, I believe 50 pound braid is an overkill and could be potentially dangerous if you get snagged (quite common when rockfish fishing), and attempt to break it off in windy/choppy conditions.
If you have not done it yet, I suggest checking out the link under articles "Catching Halibut from your Kayak"
https://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?page=9

cheers!


SpeedyStein

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I use a 12-20lb ugly stik bigwater conventional which is on the light side but it does double duty for me for live bait.

I use the "Tiger" version of this rod, 8' Ugly Stik Tiger, medium light, 12-20lb.  I really like this rod, and if I could only choose one rod for inshore, it would be this one.  Excellent for double duty - sensitive tip and TONS of backbone.  I use it for jigging up to about 3oz, live bait to 3 or 4oz, and trolling up to about 10oz.  I have an older Penn Baymaster on it now, but baitcasters work well too.  30-40lb braid works great with this rod, with a 40lb mono leader for rock/tooth abrasion. 

For heavier applications, I use a 6'6" Ugly Stik Tiger Medium, 20-40lb, with a Penn Jigmaster.  This rod is much stiffer, but handles the heavier weights very well.  I use this rod for 8-16oz jigs (the heaviest I ever use), and any trolling application requiring more than about 10oz.  40lb mono works great on this rod/reel combo, but 40 or 50 lb braid also works fine. 
I like older Penn reels because they are pretty much indestructible.  Easy to service, simple to use, and very robust.  For inshore work, the smaller ones work great.  Baitcast reels work well too, if that is what you prefer.

Spinning setups can be super fun and versatile in saltwater too - don't overlook a medium light setup for use with 20lb braid for tossing swimbaits.  Works great when you want to target pockets/holes near rocks and don't want to get too close. 





- Kevin


SpeedyStein

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As far as line goes, I believe 50 pound braid is an overkill and could be potentially dangerous if you get snagged (quite common when rockfish fishing), and attempt to break it off in windy/choppy conditions.


Gotta pay very close attention when using heavy line, and be ready to cut your line at any moment.  I carry line cutters within easy reach, as well as a bait knife on my PFD. 
- Kevin


NowhereMan

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As far as line goes, I believe 50 pound braid is an overkill and could be potentially dangerous if you get snagged (quite common when rockfish fishing), and attempt to break it off in windy/choppy conditions.


Gotta pay very close attention when using heavy line, and be ready to cut your line at any moment.  I carry line cutters within easy reach, as well as a bait knife on my PFD.

Good points. I use 65lb braid, but always use a lighter leader...
Are you pondering what I’m pondering?


LoletaEric

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Quote from: SpeedyStein
Quote from: jremi
I use a 12-20lb ugly stik bigwater conventional which is on the light side but it does double duty for me for live bait.

I use the "Tiger" version of this rod, 8' Ugly Stik Tiger, medium light, 12-20lb.  I really like this rod, and if I could only choose one rod for inshore, it would be this one.  Excellent for double duty - sensitive tip and TONS of backbone.

This is very good advice.  Get an Ugly Stik...

Quote from: SpeedyStein
I like older Penn reels because they are pretty much indestructible.  Easy to service, simple to use, and very robust.

...and put an older Penn on it.

This is the way.
I am a licensed guide.  DFW Guide ID:  1000124.   Let's do a trip together.

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loletaeric@yahoo.com - call me up at (707) 845-0400

http://www.loletaeric.com

Being an honorable sportsman is way more important than what you catch.


SpeedyStein

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Quote from: SpeedyStein
Quote from: jremi
I use a 12-20lb ugly stik bigwater conventional which is on the light side but it does double duty for me for live bait.

I use the "Tiger" version of this rod, 8' Ugly Stik Tiger, medium light, 12-20lb.  I really like this rod, and if I could only choose one rod for inshore, it would be this one.  Excellent for double duty - sensitive tip and TONS of backbone.

This is very good advice.  Get an Ugly Stik...

Quote from: SpeedyStein
I like older Penn reels because they are pretty much indestructible.  Easy to service, simple to use, and very robust.

...and put an older Penn on it.

This is the way.

I feel validated, haha.
- Kevin


LoletaEric

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Quote from: SpeedyStein
I feel validated, haha.

You should!

I started out on Ugly Stik's with old Penns - like, exclusively, for years.  I taught people to 'pull' line from their reel and to keep track of their pulls and do the math of how much line they have out.  I still teach people that, but the line counter (the "lyin' counter, because it'll screw you sooner or later!) moved me away from the old reliable.

Take this for what it is:  advice from a guy who has put way more energy and passion into this than he probably should've, over the past two and a half decades.  Fishing with the confidence of an Ugly Stik and the competence of an old Penn is the gateway to mastering this sport.  You can move on to bigger, better, faster and more beautiful later - to start, you should learn the basics with the gear that has gotten it done - on all species - for the longest time.

In my opinion.   :smt003
I am a licensed guide.  DFW Guide ID:  1000124.   Let's do a trip together.

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loletaeric@yahoo.com - call me up at (707) 845-0400

http://www.loletaeric.com

Being an honorable sportsman is way more important than what you catch.


Squidder K

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Quote from: SpeedyStein
Quote from: jremi
I use a 12-20lb ugly stik bigwater conventional which is on the light side but it does double duty for me for live bait.

I use the "Tiger" version of this rod, 8' Ugly Stik Tiger, medium light, 12-20lb.  I really like this rod, and if I could only choose one rod for inshore, it would be this one.  Excellent for double duty - sensitive tip and TONS of backbone.

This is very good advice.  Get an Ugly Stik...

Quote from: SpeedyStein
I like older Penn reels because they are pretty much indestructible.  Easy to service, simple to use, and very robust.

...and put an older Penn on it.

This is the way.

You can trust this man's advice! I also like two rods a lot general purpose the Ugly Stick Tiger , and the Shimano Trevalla.  If you want to spend a little time on a reel and fish mono with it, I highly recommend the  Shimano TR-100-G level wind or the TR-200, these are basic reels but if you head over to Alan Tani's reel repair website and order a different handle you end up with a really good reel that won't break the bank. If you look for an older Penn reel  look for a Surfmaster, and or a Squidder, they are good overall reels. Lastly if you want something heavier duty Diawa Sealine's are tanks, but they are heavy for jigging all day in a kayak IMHO. 

Link to Alan's website: https://alantani.com/

Kevin Storm
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AlsHobieOutback

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A dual duty rod for Halibut and Rockfish is totally doable, I'lll assume you want to jig for rockfish and drift/troll for halibut.  For me this has long been the reason I loved the Shimano Trevala rods, 6'6 or 7' Medium or Medium Heavy.  They are bullet proof imho, aside from the Tiger rods, probably one of the most loved line of rods in kayak fishing history.  Pair with a easy to use conventional reel, with line clicker you have what you need.  Both rods are great options imho, but most will upgrade from Tiger to something more specific to their tastes.
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Squidder K

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Quote from: SpeedyStein
Quote from: jremi
I use a 12-20lb ugly stik bigwater conventional which is on the light side but it does double duty for me for live bait.

I use the "Tiger" version of this rod, 8' Ugly Stik Tiger, medium light, 12-20lb.  I really like this rod, and if I could only choose one rod for inshore, it would be this one.  Excellent for double duty - sensitive tip and TONS of backbone.

This is very good advice.  Get an Ugly Stik...

Quote from: SpeedyStein
I like older Penn reels because they are pretty much indestructible.  Easy to service, simple to use, and very robust.

...and put an older Penn on it.

This is the way.

You can trust this man's advice! I also like two rods a lot general purpose the Ugly Stick Tiger , and the Shimano Trevalla.  If you want to spend a little time on a reel and fish mono with it, I highly recommend the  Shimano TR-100-G level wind or the TR-200, these are basic reels but if you head over to Alan Tani's reel repair website and order a different handle you end up with a really good reel that won't break the bank. If you look for an older Penn reel  look for a Surfmaster, and or a Squidder, they are good overall reels. Lastly if you want something heavier duty Diawa Sealine's are tanks, but they are heavy for jigging all day in a kayak IMHO. 

Link to Alan's website: https://alantani.com/

Some images of the TR 100 G modified with smooth drags and an Alan Tani Reel Handle (stock is way to small).  Also I post some images of my super over modified Squidder 146 (don't do this, I could of bought a couple of Avets for what I put into this. Also feel free to search out the various aftermarket Drags, from the Late Bryan Young, Smooth Drags, Maxed Out,  as well as Cortez Convertion's and Tiburon Reel Parts.  I will also throw in the Hardare company McMaster-Carr for getting those Penn 5-40 button top allen screws (I love the button top marine screws over stock Penn screws).

1st Image: TR 100 G in use on my Stealth.
2nd image: Three Penn 113H Drag stacks L to R 7 stack (Maxed Out if I recall, 2nd HT-100 Penn Drags, and the 3rd original Penn drags made prior to HT-100's) .
3rd Image: Squidder 146 with Cortez outer parts and Maxed out inner parts.
4th & 5th  Images: Penn 112 Narrowed with Tiburon parts and an Alan Tani Reel Handle
6th Image: Penn 112H2 (this is a Chinese made Penn 112H) this reel has been gutted and has new Stainless-Steel parts (Maxed Out I think).

Just Showing you what you can do, keep in mind mods cost, Simple things like drags and a handle is by far very simple and cost effective for most reels.
Kevin Storm
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The Gopher

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Penn Jigmaster 500 on an Offshore Angler Sea Lion conventional rod is my “always works” reliable combo when not using older Penns reels on my fiberglass antiques. Handles anything with 30 lb or 40 lb mono.
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SpeedyStein

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That squidder is pretty awesome - will have to find a lefty version for myself one of these days.

I'm super happy with my Baymaster 180. I swapped in lefty parts, replaced the drag washers with HT100s, and put on a longer handle.  It really is a sweet little reel. I'd guess it makes around 10lbs of drag, and it is probably the smoothest drag out of all of my reels. I only built it last summer, and pulled up a couple 30" class ling cods in the weeks after the build.
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This really became a what is my favorite fishing setup thread  :smt044 But, are we giving the OP the information he needs to make a decision?  I guess the missing piece of the first post is Price, with that you could narrow down these options.  And as fun as it sounds to rebuild old reels because they are cool, I doubt that is what they had in mind when asking what to purchase, but hey I could be wrong.
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