Stealth transport

Ive been using a Thule kayak carrier thing on my racks for the last couple years. I like it because it extends the cradles past the stock crossbars. About 5'6" or more cradle to cradle. That's nice because my 525 is pretty long. Problem is that I kinda hate it too. It's noisy and flimsy and my doesn't really fit my kayak well. I recently purchased a new car and was thinking of just using the stock crossbars with cradles. My question is, with the stock crossbars the spread is about 3'6" cradle to cradle. Is that too narrow? Im worried with my 17' kayak that might be too close together and cause flex on bouncy country roads. On a side note, Moo and Eddie, how are you guys liking the Lockracks?

Yes I do. I already put 2k miles on it and it's been great. It's more secure than the traps.

Nice. Thanks Moo. And you got the Universal X right?

Nice. Thanks Moo. And you got the Universal X right?

Yes Universal X. It fits my Fusion 480 (right side up) and my poorman's tarpon 120 (upside down) perfectly but not perfect with my AI (right side up) since the haul is rounded in the center. I simply replace the rubber pad that came with the LockRack with Malone 25 inch roof rack pad (which I already had) and it's very nice fit since there is a gap in between the base mount.

I'll second a recommendation for the lockracks -- I get almost zero movement on the kayak. I mounted them on the t-track on my hullavators and it is rock solid. For my 2022 outback it has to ride bottom up to fit, but I prefer that anyway. I'll leave it to Moo and Eddie on how they fit the narrower Stealths but I've been super happy with them.

Cheers,
Brad

I love my lock rack foevah’ for now.  Going on 2 plus years cartopping for storage.  Yak is 23” wide and it fits snuggly between.  I do have to lock it at the widest points in the front with one width buttonhole to spare.   

Well I was thinking of getting a new paddle but have needed new cradles for longer. Just ordered a set based on all you all's recommendation. I'm looking forward to being secure and scuff free.

I usually add a bow and stern tie down as well, any of you guys using this rack do this as an extra precaution or is it overkill?

Well I was thinking of getting a new paddle but have needed new cradles for longer. Just ordered a set based on all you all's recommendation. I'm looking forward to being secure and scuff free.

I usually add a bow and stern tie down as well, any of you guys using this rack do this as an extra precaution or is it overkill?

I've never bow and sterned but I think about it...

Measure from CL of front bulkhead to CL of rear bulk head
Set your cross bars that distance apart Strap it down over the bulkhead and go

If roof length wont allow then fwd cross bar to me is most important To secure at bulkhead
Rear just becomes balance point

No bulk head then make a temp block to suport the hull so strap is solid

Cheers

Well I was thinking of getting a new paddle but have needed new cradles for longer. Just ordered a set based on all you all's recommendation. I'm looking forward to being secure and scuff free.

I usually add a bow and stern tie down as well, any of you guys using this rack do this as an extra precaution or is it overkill?

I run front and rear lines just as added protection/peace of mind -- it doesn't really add any setup time.

Cheers,
Brad

Hey thanks for the input everybody. Im thinking a set of Lockracks might be in my near future. Ive wanted a pair for years and might as well with the new car and all. Not having do deal with straps is so awesome.

Measure from CL of front bulkhead to CL of rear bulk head
Set your cross bars that distance apart Strap it down over the bulkhead and go

If roof length wont allow then fwd cross bar to me is most important To secure at bulkhead
Rear just becomes balance point

No bulk head then make a temp block to suport the hull so strap is solid

Cheers

Thanks Poulton. Im not quite sure what you mean by "CL". Center Line? I think I get what you're saying though. Unfortunately I can't move the crossbars and also the front bulkhead is a bit of a grey area in a stealth due to the fish hatch. But I think the strapping points should be located on a pretty structural area of the kayak. I don't know, I guess I just see.....

I'll second a recommendation for the lockracks -- I get almost zero movement on the kayak. I mounted them on the t-track on my hullavators and it is rock solid. For my 2022 outback it has to ride bottom up to fit, but I prefer that anyway. I'll leave it to Moo and Eddie on how they fit the narrower Stealths but I've been super happy with them.

Cheers,
Brad

Does the Lockrack bolt right onto the Hullavator so that you can use the two together? Currently I use a Hullavator with locking straps but the Lockrack looks real convenient.

I'll second a recommendation for the lockracks -- I get almost zero movement on the kayak. I mounted them on the t-track on my hullavators and it is rock solid. For my 2022 outback it has to ride bottom up to fit, but I prefer that anyway. I'll leave it to Moo and Eddie on how they fit the narrower Stealths but I've been super happy with them.

Cheers,
Brad

Does the Lockrack bolt right onto the Hullavator so that you can use the two together? Currently I use a Hullavator with locking straps but the Lockrack looks real convenient.

You have two options for mounting when you buy the Lock Rack either bolt it directly to a track bar like you have Mark or buy the adaptor that can clamp to round square or aero bars. Might be a little too complicated but you could try with my set to see if it works.

I really like how simple, secure and light they are.

I'll second a recommendation for the lockracks -- I get almost zero movement on the kayak. I mounted them on the t-track on my hullavators and it is rock solid. For my 2022 outback it has to ride bottom up to fit, but I prefer that anyway. I'll leave it to Moo and Eddie on how they fit the narrower Stealths but I've been super happy with them.

Cheers,
Brad

Does the Lockrack bolt right onto the Hullavator so that you can use the two together? Currently I use a Hullavator with locking straps but the Lockrack looks real convenient.

You have two options for mounting when you buy the Lock Rack either bolt it directly to a track bar like you have Mark or buy the adaptor that can clamp to round square or aero bars. Might be a little too complicated but you could try with my set to see if it works.

I really like how simple, secure and light they are.

Ok thanks for the explanation I’ll take a closer look at yours next time.

Ive been using a Thule kayak carrier thing on my racks for the last couple years. I like it because it extends the cradles past the stock crossbars. About 5'6" or more cradle to cradle. That's nice because my 525 is pretty long. Problem is that I kinda hate it too. It's noisy and flimsy and my doesn't really fit my kayak well. I recently purchased a new car and was thinking of just using the stock crossbars with cradles. My question is, with the stock crossbars the spread is about 3'6" cradle to cradle. Is that too narrow? Im worried with my 17' kayak that might be too close together and cause flex on bouncy country roads. On a side note, Moo and Eddie, how are you guys liking the Lockracks?

I switched to using the felt lined Thule rear set on my truck, no issues with noise.