Homebrew aluminum kayak trailer

I already have a nice aluminum (Trailex) trailer for my AI, so you might think that the last thing I'd need is another aluminum kayak trailer. Well, if you think that way, you'd be wrong, as I have managed to piece together a second AI, and I feel that Number Two (as I have christened my second AI) will lose its self-esteem if it does not also have its own trailer. Besides, I've been salivating over the Yakima Rack and Roll trailer for years.

However, I could not justify spending almost $3k for an actual Yakima Rack and Roll, so I decided to build something similar myself. I bought the same wheels, shocks, and a couple of other parts that are used on the Yakima trailer. Then I bought a bunch of square aluminum tubing (2 x 2 x 1/4, 6061-T6, for those keeping score).

It was at that point that I remembered that I don't know how to weld, so it was going to have to all be held together with bolts and such. So, I bought a bunch 316 stainless bolts, some 1/4" flat aluminum plate (also 6061), and also some exotic metal rods (aluminum-bronze, nickel, ...) for various special uses.

I do have a small drill press, and I bought an angle grinder for this project, but otherwise, I don't have much for tools, no real workshop, etc. So, it took a while, but eventually, I got the frame together, and wheels attached. I took it out for a short test-run, only to realize that it was about 1' wider than I wanted it to be. So, I disassembled it, cut down the width, and re-assembled.

Just yesterday, I got a chance to give this new-and-improved version a good test run, and I filmed it, just to see how it towed, as I can't see it when driving. If you want to take a look-see, the video is below. Next, I'll try the same with it carrying an AI.

Btw, I'm especially proud of the fenders (6" ABS pipe cut lengthwise and painted orange), although they do looks somewhat, umm..., out of place. As you can see in the picture, there are lights (and they've been properly wired since that picture was taken), but you can't see them in the video. It doesn't have a safety chain/cable yet, and I want to tweak a couple other minor things; otherwise it's done.

At some point, I plan to make a video of the build process with a lot more details, as I filmed some of it and took lots of pictures.

Looks great! Good job.

Good Job NWM!!!

Wow that looked like a fairly smooth ride for a mountain road. My little trailer for my aluminum would have been jumping out on its socks if it had some. Definitely have to look into that set up. Nice job.

Damn ! Nice work !

Super impressive!  Can’t wait for the build process video. 

Job well done! 

Really looks awesome Mark!  Love the tires and the springs and how serviceable all of it looks.

Looks great. What did you use to support the hull of the kayak?

Sweet! Well done

Looks GREAT!

Cool build!

Looks great. So the entire thing was bolted together? I don't know these things, does it need to be registered? If so, does it have to pass some sort of inspection or just pay fees? I just bought a truck, so I should try to build one for my AI too

Wow that looked like a fairly smooth ride for a mountain road. My little trailer for my aluminum would have been jumping out on its socks if it had some. Definitely have to look into that set up. Nice job.

Yes, I was surprised at how smooth it travels. Without any weight on my Trailex (even with 12" wheels) bounces all over on our roads. I guess no-axle approach makes for a much smoother ride.

Looks great. What did you use to support the hull of the kayak?

The trailer has the old style Hobie bunks bolted in place. Those bunks are made out of fiberglass, and seem to be indestructible, as opposed to the newer style, which are made out of ABS, and seem to crack pretty easily.

On my Trailex, I have bunks made out of 2" PVC conduit, and I think that gives better support, and it is easier to slide the boat on and off. But, one reason I made the Rack and Roll style is because it can sit upright, and that wouldn't work with PVC bunks.

I'll post a picture as soon as I splice in a disconnect so that the tongue can be separated without damaging the wiring, and it'll be clear what I'm talking about...