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Topic: Lowrance won't power up  (Read 2510 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

  • Location: Willits, CA
  • Date Registered: Apr 2014
  • Posts: 835
Lowrance HDI5 won't power up and idk what to do. Doubt i'll get a fix my the time I go out tomorrow. Finally got my rack set up....now this...


When I bought it used it wouldn't power up. Thought it was the battery but found out it wasn't. It just started working again randomly shortly after.

Worked well a few times on lake and delta.

Just tested it for a few hours nothing happening.

I stripped the wires and reconnected in case there was any corrosion. Checked circuit, it's fine. Not much in between the batter and FF...not sure what else to do...Advice please?



DG

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • First joined in 2013
  • Location: Ft Bragg
  • Date Registered: Feb 2014
  • Posts: 3664
Could be a hairline crack in fuse.  Replace with new one just in case.  See if one of the buttons on the fish finder could be stuck as I have seen that keep a different brand from starting up.  Also battery still could be a problem so borrow someone's to see if that's the issue or test it. 
-----------------------------------
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Weimarian

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • F!!! politics. Let's go FISHING
  • Location: Weimar California
  • Date Registered: Mar 2011
  • Posts: 6192
shake head unit, listen for water..... If you hear it. Dead unit :smt010
my new name should be Ostridge. Got my head in the sand. Going fishing and letting go of the other stuff I can't control anyway!


TFM

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: West Sacramento
  • Date Registered: Jul 2013
  • Posts: 435
I had the same problems me same FF. Mine is working now after I found corrosion in my in-line fuse. Took the fuse off to test fired up. I also upgraded firmware at first power on.


  • Location: Willits, CA
  • Date Registered: Apr 2014
  • Posts: 835
Don't think the unit is dead. It did this before then worked with no issue for a couple weeks. No water that I can hear.


Malfunction when you say you took the fuse out and started it what did you do, remove the whole fuse wire, take the connector and crimp it to that wire bypassing the fuse all together?


  • Location: Placerville
  • Date Registered: Feb 2012
  • Posts: 3277
Are you using a volt meter to test with?  I would take a volt meter and test for voltage at the battery first.  Make sure the battery is fully charged and reads at least 12.6 volts. 

Leave the ground lead from the volt meter on the battery and test each of the pins on the connector that plugs into the control head by using a paper clip to reach into the contact.  One of the pins should get the volt meter to read the same voltage you do when checking the battery's voltage.  If you do measure the battery voltage this way, swap volt meter leads; put the volt meter red lead on the positive post of the battery and take the black lead and paper clip to test for a ground through the cable connector.  One pin should show battery voltage.  Now take two paper clips and test the two wires you've identified as the hot and ground leads of the connector.  This proves that both the hot lead and the ground lead are making it to the FF control head. 
If at any point along the test, you do not get voltage, then back track along the wire harness and test until you do find voltage.  At that point will be the failure.  It could be any connection; a crimp, fuse, damaged wire, etc., so examine closely. 

This next test is a little trickier.  After establishing that you have voltage at the control head, as outlined above, you'll want to see if the on/off button is causing any current draw inside the fish finder.  To do that, hook up the fish finder as usual.  Take your volt meter and put it into AMPS mode to measure amps.  (Current is measured in amps and the presence of a measured current indicates that there is power being consumed.)  Take the hot lead off the battery and attach the black lead of the meter to the battery and the red lead from the meter to the wire.  Now try to turn on the fish finder.  If the meter shows a reading change, then the fish finder battery is powering up something inside the control head via the on/off switch and your display should turn on.  If the display still doesn't turn on, then there really isn't anything you can do at this point.  If the meter doesn't show a reading change, then the on/off switch isn't working or there is an internal fuse inside the control head that has blown.  However, you indicated this is an intermittent problem.  Feel free to whack the fish finder.  There may be a bad solder joint or other loose connection inside you might be able to get working again.  Also flex the power cable to see if there's a broken wire inside the wire insulation. 



Also, check the control head buttons very carefully.  One of them might be jammed down, and negating the on/off button function.  Exercise all the buttons and make sure they feel like they are making and breaking in a positive fashion.   Especially the on/off button.  Press it and wiggle it around some to try and make a good connection.
« Last Edit: August 23, 2016, 07:04:59 AM by Ski Pro 3 -- Jerry »


  • Location: Willits, CA
  • Date Registered: Apr 2014
  • Posts: 835
Are you using a volt meter to test with?  I would take a volt meter and test for voltage at the battery first.  Make sure the battery is fully charged and reads at least 12.6 volts. 

Leave the ground lead from the volt meter on the battery and test each of the pins on the connector that plugs into the control head by using a paper clip to reach into the contact.  One of the pins should get the volt meter to read the same voltage you do when checking the battery's voltage.  If you do measure the battery voltage this way, swap volt meter leads; put the volt meter red lead on the positive post of the battery and take the black lead and paper clip to test for a ground through the cable connector.  One pin should show battery voltage.  Now take two paper clips and test the two wires you've identified as the hot and ground leads of the connector.  This proves that both the hot lead and the ground lead are making it to the FF control head. 
If at any point along the test, you do not get voltage, then back track along the wire harness and test until you do find voltage.  At that point will be the failure.  It could be any connection; a crimp, fuse, damaged wire, etc., so examine closely. 

This next test is a little trickier.  After establishing that you have voltage at the control head, as outlined above, you'll want to see if the on/off button is causing any current draw inside the fish finder.  To do that, hook up the fish finder as usual.  Take your volt meter and put it into AMPS mode to measure amps.  (Current is measured in amps and the presence of a measured current indicates that there is power being consumed.)  Take the hot lead off the battery and attach the black lead of the meter to the battery and the red lead from the meter to the wire.  Now try to turn on the fish finder.  If the meter shows a reading change, then the fish finder battery is powering up something inside the control head via the on/off switch and your display should turn on.  If the display still doesn't turn on, then there really isn't anything you can do at this point.  If the meter doesn't show a reading change, then the on/off switch isn't working or there is an internal fuse inside the control head that has blown.  However, you indicated this is an intermittent problem.  Feel free to whack the fish finder.  There may be a bad solder joint or other loose connection inside you might be able to get working again.  Also flex the power cable to see if there's a broken wire inside the wire insulation. 



Also, check the control head buttons very carefully.  One of them might be jammed down, and negating the on/off button function.  Exercise all the buttons and make sure they feel like they are making and breaking in a positive fashion.   Especially the on/off button.  Press it and wiggle it around some to try and make a good connection.

Wow, can't ask for more than that... Thank you.