Salmon trolling rig questions...

So I need to re- tie a couple RSK's and I've got a question... I understand that for mooching, you cannot use a sliding hook. Is that also the case while trolling, or could I re-tie my RSK's with a sliding hook (barbless single of course)?

How do you re-tie your RSKs when the cheap-ass stock hooks rust out?

Ok... Determined that a sliding hook is OK while trolling. Seems like that would make it much easier to rig. Good idea, or no?

Yes - you can troll with slip rigs, and I recommend it. 

Excellent... Thanks!  Ya, trying to get the stock fixed length rigs to fit small bait is annoying...

Do you also use a mooching band to secure the trailing hook, or just stick it in your bait?

Yes - you can troll with slip rigs, and I recommend it. 

If I'm correct, Eric uses his slip knot to rig his baits without any type of bait holder (rsk/fbr). The slip hook allows this rig to adjust the curve of the bait that makes it spin. I really like this presentation for a number of reasons. Simplicity, it looks more natural than any bait in a holder and will pick up far less jelly/weeds.
However, to set the curve of the bait and get a good hookset, the slip knot has to be pretty snug. If a fish on the slip hook makes a sudden run or headshake, the resulting friction of the sliding hook moving down the line can and at times will result in burn off. I and others have lost fish in this way. Especially hali.
That being said, the jedi skills exhibited by some members drastically decreases the chances of this happening.
If you are rigging a bait holder, I would recommend hard tying both hooks back to back to avoid burn off.

I've heard of this "burn off", but never experienced it. I've done a whole lot of halibut fishing (both yak and PB) using trap rigs (sliding octopus above a hard tied treble) and never experienced this that I can recall.

I like the idea of not using the bait holder. That would make for an easy transition between trolling and trooching. Just throw some lighter lead in the sinker release and go.

What does rsk and fbr stand for?

Rotary Salmon Killer
Franko Bullet Rotator

I've heard of this "burn off", but never experienced it. I've done a whole lot of halibut fishing (both yak and PB) using trap rigs (sliding octopus above a hard tied treble) and never experienced this that I can recall.

I never experienced it either until a few weeks back when I had a WSB on. I was pretty sure that was what happened, but I had not heard of the term "burn off" before. All I thought was that the slider got pulled back so hard and so fast that it weakened the fluoro enough to break. Never had it happen before, but then, never used sliders for WSB either. Now I know why!

Sharky's right - I use the slip rig by itself without any kind of bait holder.  I do prefer the natural look of it, but I don't snug it down to curve the bait.  My bait presentation is basically straight versus spinning.  My dodger causes the bait to have action other than just 'swimming' straight, and, due largely to slow kayak trolling speed of 1.5 to 2 MPH, much of the time my bait is indeed just swimming straight.  I do think there are instances where a spinning bait will get hit more of the time than a non-spinning one, but, then again, I've gotten bit with my straight-swimming bait when lots of RSK's...etc. are spinning around in the same area not getting bit.

As for burn off, I have experienced something like it, but the vast majority of the times you'll reel in after a good strike and the two hooks of the slip rig are together at the terminal end.  A good slip rig like Gamikatsu will withstand quite a bit of use and abuse, whereas some other brands will fail after relatively little use.  I also like Eagle Claw's Razur Sharp slip rigs.

The validation of actually getting a salmon to bite the bait as you've presented it is a huge part of the satisfaction of salmon fishing.  Good luck to you.   

I've heard of this "burn off", but never experienced it. I've done a whole lot of halibut fishing (both yak and PB) using trap rigs (sliding octopus above a hard tied treble) and never experienced this that I can recall.

I never experienced it either until a few weeks back when I had a WSB on. I was pretty sure that was what happened, but I had not heard of the term "burn off" before. All I thought was that the slider got pulled back so hard and so fast that it weakened the fluoro enough to break. Never had it happen before, but then, never used sliders for WSB either. Now I know why!

Thats exactly my point. Its going to happen on BIG fish, often close to the boat.
The sliding of the hook causes friction on the line weakening it. The hook slamming into the other is able to make the line separate.
I promise you, if you ask around you'll hear stories of this happening more often than you would think.
Eric, fyi, on the commercial boat I work on we run our baits, flasher or not, straight, with great success. To me it seems the less frantic presentation appeals to a better grade of fish.

I did a little reading, and it seems some people secure their slip rigs using magic thread instead of mono. That might reduce the chance of "burn". I usually just tie my own with 20 or 25 lb mono/fluoro.

I think I'll try a little "OO" dodger and straight bait on a slip rig next time out.

Can you recommend good lengths from sinker release-->flasher--> bait? I'm thinking 2' between lead and flasher, and about 3' between flasher and bait. Sound good?