Subaru Outback kayak mount questions

I just bought a new Subaru Outback, and now find myself needing some help to properly carry a kayak or two on the roof.  What can I say, I'm a car-top virgin. For now, I'd like to keep it simple: factory crossbars covered in pipe insulation, a strap or two across the midsection, and bow and stern tie down straps. The Subaru is throwing me some curveballs though.

First, I can't seem to find good tie down spots under the center of the rig. Are there any pros or cons with strapping the bow and stern to both corners of the car (picture an upside down "V") instead of perfectly in line with the kayak (my completely and wholly uneducated preference)? I didn't want to fall back on hood loops, but if that's the best way to go, so be it.

Second, the factory crossbars are actually on a folding system. Once put in position across the roof of the car, there is no remaining vertical rail to use for strapping or security purposes. I could secure the kayak to the crossbars for travel, but how could I lock the kayak to keep it from walking away on a pit stop? Keep in mind the folding system doesn't lock, so I worry someone could disengage the cross bar and shimmy my kayak locking cable off the end of the crossbar. What options may be available to me.

And lastly, the crossbars only sit about 30 inches apart from each other. Does this mean there is a maximum length to the kayaks I would be able to safely carry without potentially turning them into kayak tacos?

Any help would be appreciated. I'm off to spend some quality internet search time.

I have a 2011 Subaru Outback.  I use Thule Hullivators on one side and Hully rollers and Mako saddles for the second yak.  The 2013 Outbacks allow for much more space between the bars than the 11 & 12.  My maximum distance is just under the 24 inches recommended by Thule for Hullivators and load bars but it has worked out fine for me.  I generally only transport one yak, a Hobie Revolution.  I have transported my Revo and a Hobie Adventure and had no problems.  I wouldn't trust the factory cross bars to handle that kind of weight.  I use two 65" Thule square load bars and attach them as wide apart as the side rails will allow, which is just a hair under 24".  I would use 2 Hullivators if I was hauling a second yak all the time but I just can't justify the cost.  Yakima makes a set-up specifically for the Outback rails but it wasn't available until recently.  I believe it addresses the issue of the short spread between the bars but I think Subaru fixed that for 2013.  With the Thule systems, everything is protected by lock and key.  I remove the entire set-up after use since it creates intolerable wind noise.  It only takes me about 10 minutes to install everything and load the yak.  Thule and Yakima racks aren't cheap but they are very well engineered and reliable.  A lot of guys just use the load bars and carry the yak upside down but I'm pretty sure they don't use the factory load bars. 

1. subaruoutback.org  -great resource
2. I believe Yakima did not have own rack system for 2013 Outback yet, they do have towers for 2010-12 and of course it's much better than factory rack

I have 2010 OB, so I install hullirovers and mako, but have to use V shape strap in front to secure kayak for transportation

Im not sure of the 2013 models but on other Subarus Ive had to take the racks off to repair dents in the roof skin I found that the factory racks are actually mounted with welded nuts and support brackets from the inside. Awesome construction.

Im not sure of the 2013 models but on other Subarus Ive had to take the racks off to repair dents in the roof skin I found that the factory racks are actually mounted with welded nuts and support brackets from the inside. Awesome construction.

4th Generation lost a touch a little bit on the rack part, even that I personally like the new design - too much plastic and crossbars is not so strong as previous generations

Thank you, gentleman. Any input on the use of loop straps (the loop contraptions that one can pinch between the hood or trunk of a car)?

Thank you, gentleman. Any input on the use of loop straps (the loop contraptions that one can pinch between the hood or trunk of a car)?

I use the thule loop straps on my tacoma for the Bow and stern line. They make one that can be bolted in or one that can be removed every use.

gelbyak, I believe that you could in fact take your bow line and make the inverted V that you want to. When you open the hood underneath you will see a various arrangement of holes in the frame that the hood skin goes over, Taking a rubber coated hook and putting into two of these holes should work. Be very careful of over tightening and also making sure that the curvature of the hook does not rub against the underside of the exterior panel. This would make an outward dent in the hood panel. Another option for your bow tie down would be to go over the bumper and down underneath it. On some models there are two tie down brakets that are either bolted or welded to the frame assembly. These are used for securing the car during transport. Using a buffer between the cord would eleminate chafing on the paint. The same on the rear of the car. Call me for any questions. 707-849-5986 Craig

I use loop straps on my 2011 Outback.  I attached them under the hood and just tuck them in when not in use.  For the rear, I used a couple of "threaded chain links", not sure what they're actually called.  I found solid metal frame "holes" slightly forward of the rear bumper to attach them to.  They are left in place all of the time since they aren't visible and I just attach the S hook from the "Quick Draw" rope to them and attach the other end to the rear yak handle.  On the front; I attach about a foot long strap loop to the loop straps to keep the metal S hook away from the hood.  I have used this set-up for a couple of years and lots of freeway driving and it has worked very well.  Easy to load and easy to unload!

Thanks, Craig. I'll check out the hood concept you described. The towing hooks are there, but they are inconveniently far back. There are two holes in the frame closer to the front that should do the trick for an inverted "V" tie down.

I like the loop strap set-up you describe, Fish n' Brew.

Oddball physics question I'm pondering: shouldn't the bow and stern tie downs ideally be pulling on the load in opposite directions? Maybe I'm just looking for one too many redundant safety features. Especially if the actual purpose of the bow and stern tie downs is to stabilize the kayak and reduce wind wobble, rather than pin the kayak to the car. Admittedly, if the car would stop abruptly enough to launch the kayak forward, and break the middle crossbar straps, I'd be having much bigger issues than a lost load. Alright, I'm done nerding out. Thanks again for the thoughts and input!

You are not nerding out. I saw a 2013 Outback on the road yesterday. It looked as though the crossbars were kind of close together. making the tie down points more like a fulcrum. This looked to be kind of precarious as the kayak might fold in the center after being tied down at each end. Martin, do have info about this thought? I was looking through the Thule website and it appears that they make a cradle of some sort to eliminate that situation of stressing the center of the boat under load.

http://www.thule.com/en-US/US/Products/Watersports/WatersportCarriers/887XT-Slipstream

My little WRX hatchback has crossbars that are ridiculously close together. 
Two straps through the main bars (mine has bars running parallel to the length of the car), then a bow strap set up in an "inverted V" (or "For Every" symbol if you are a TOTAL geek). I use a ratcheting hook strap to create the inverted v, running it through the bow handle strap.

That set up has worked for 10 years, and many thousands of miles...

Craig,  The issue of not being able to spread the load bars a little further has always been a concern.  Thule Hullivators specify a minimum of 24" between the bars and I am able to get about 23 5/8" by attaching the bars to the extreme ends of the side rails. I Have found that the Hullivators cradle the yak so well and the touch points on the hull are pretty wide (much wider than the diameter of the load bar) which spreads the load across the hull.  I always torque the straps down really tight to increase the "pinch" of the Hullivator cradles.  I think I could probably skip the bow and stern lines but I always use them just in case of a very quick stop or collision that could drive the yak forward.  I don't pull them down really tight; just enough to stop any forward or rearward movement. When I hauled Daviator's Adventure, which is quite a bit longer than my Revo, it was not nearly as stable.  I stopped once and checked it and everything was ok but the overhang on both ends cause more movement than I was comfortable with.  The Adventure was on Mako Saddles and Hully Rollers making the contact points with the hull much smaller than with the Hullivators.  If there was a way to get a little more distance between the bars without buying all new gear from Yakima for around $350, I would do it.  Unfortunately that's the only solution available for 2010 and 2011 models.  The 2013 rails allow for more distance.

"For Every" symbol... holy crap, I've been out-geeked! I salute you, sir!

Good stuff, guys. Thank you very much.