Scotty Flush Mount Waterproofing

I saw in another thread where people were shying away from certain scotty type flush mounts because they allow water to get into the hull.  I use the real no-name cheapies which are hollow all the way thru. Just go to the hardware store and buy caps for the end inside the hull. I use the ones that are made for stool legs, depending on the fit I either shove'em on dry or use a little sealant.  I've never had a leaker.  This way you're not relying on the ones with that cap from the top that can get torn off and or lost.

Prescription bottle caps work perfectly. Tight and with a little sealant mine have been good for 5 yrs.

I was too lazy to go find a cap so I made mine. 
Just cover the end with masking tape or duct tape. 
Trim off the tape so just the end is covered with a sharp blade.
Apply copious amounts of Goop over the tape and up the sides. 
Store upside down while the Goop cures.

You can make this as thick or thin as you please. 

I have 4 Scotty flush mounts, they were installed with screws and washers instead of rivets and set with silicone. Never had a problem with water intrusion. From what I hear the new style push to lock mounts are hollow, the twist to lock ones have served me well.

That being said the stool leg cap is a pretty cleaver fix, If that goes you have bigger problems on your hands.

If you arent using the #344,#444,#244 on your kayak you need to re- think your process. All have sealed end caps

I have 4 Scotty flush mounts, they were installed with screws and washers instead of rivets and set with silicone. Never had a problem with water intrusion. From what I hear the new style push to lock mounts are hollow, the twist to lock ones have served me well.

That being said the stool leg cap is a pretty cleaver fix, If that goes you have bigger problems on your hands.

I am planning on installing a flush mount as well, but don't own a rivet gun, so I was also looking for an alternative method.  I notice you mention screw and washers, but what about on the other end...did you use a nut to tighten it down? If so, what size screw did you end up using?

I have 4 Scotty flush mounts, they were installed with screws and washers instead of rivets and set with silicone. Never had a problem with water intrusion. From what I hear the new style push to lock mounts are hollow, the twist to lock ones have served me well.

That being said the stool leg cap is a pretty cleaver fix, If that goes you have bigger problems on your hands.

I am planning on installing a flush mount as well, but don't own a rivet gun, so I was also looking for an alternative method.  I notice you mention screw and washers, but what about on the other end...did you use a nut to tighten it down? If so, what size screw did you end up using?

I am pretty sure I used Stainless Steel 1/4 28 fine machine thread nuts and bolts. I was able to reach under and get them with a ratcheting wrench. Not sure what kayak you have but on an Ocean Prowler I can get anywhere on it up until the first 1/3rd of the cargo box area. It just takes some awkward stretching, having a buddy help  will save a ton of time. If you don't want to drop $20 on a rivet gun you can always rent them. If you can reach it/have clearance use screws washers and nuts, backing plates are nice too. The stainless hardware is well worth it and I'd bet on that over a Aluminium rivet without a backup plate any day.

Hope it helps.
 

If you arent using the #344,#444,#244 on your kayak you need to re- think your process. All have sealed end caps

Those are generally what you see in the stores now.

I have 4 Scotty flush mounts, they were installed with screws and washers instead of rivets and set with silicone. Never had a problem with water intrusion. From what I hear the new style push to lock mounts are hollow, the twist to lock ones have served me well.

That being said the stool leg cap is a pretty cleaver fix, If that goes you have bigger problems on your hands.

I am planning on installing a flush mount as well, but don't own a rivet gun, so I was also looking for an alternative method.  I notice you mention screw and washers, but what about on the other end...did you use a nut to tighten it down? If so, what size screw did you end up using?

You can pick up cheap-o rivet guns at Harbor-Freight, but you should get kayak specific rivets though. http://kayakfishinggear.com/rivets-10perpack-blackanodized-316-seepricediscounts.aspx

Something like this is what I use for mounting with nut and bolt...http://kayakfishinggear.com/hardwareseteforscottyproducts.aspx

Ocean Kayak uses a blind nut for their rod holders on the T series (I forget what it is called). I have had to put some in a T13 to OK specs. They are nice because you can essentially put a nut and bolt anywhere even if you cant reach the other end. However they require a larger hole and have been know to pull out of the plastic.

You can pick up cheap-o rivet guns at Harbor-Freight, but you should get kayak specific rivets though. http://kayakfishinggear.com/rivets-10perpack-blackanodized-316-seepricediscounts.aspx

Maybe I should go with rivets.  So are these stainless steel or aluminum?  What size are these and would they work to mount a scotty 241 side/deck base?

You can pick up cheap-o rivet guns at Harbor-Freight, but you should get kayak specific rivets though. http://kayakfishinggear.com/rivets-10perpack-blackanodized-316-seepricediscounts.aspx

Maybe I should go with rivets.  So are these stainless steel or aluminum?  What size are these and would they work to mount a scotty 241 side/deck base?

Yes, rivets will work but if you can bolt it it is much better stronger and less likely to fail. Ryan gave you a link for the rivets you need. They are aluminum. Stainless poprivits would break a $15 rivet gun, it takes a hydraulic rivet puller to do stainless. Either way you don't want stainless rivets because if it does not pull right or you simply want to remove what you mounted it is a real pain to grind off the rivet head to remove it. 

That being said if you still want to rivet those should work with the Scotty mount, make sure it is the right size. It should just fit through the holes in the base and stick out a good ways to grab the plastic on the kayak deck.