Tahiti Non Yak (mostly)

 Report on my trip through the Tahitian archipelago.  14 days in-country with 10 nights aboard the “Raiatea”, a 44 foot Orana model Fountain Pajot catamaran.

Flew into Tahiti (8 hours from LAX), stayed one night, then caught another flight to Raiatea, and stayed two nights in some interesting on-the water bungalows. 



The bungalows were quite nice, and the place had a little dock with yak launch.  The boats were really crappy European models that were a real pain to paddle. 



We then picked up our boat from Tahiti Yacht Charters.



Did I mention 10 people?  Lots of luggage.



Spent the night aboard in the lagoon at Raiatea to get used to the boat, then headed out next morning for the big blue crossing to Bora Bora.  Even on a larger craft like a 44 Cat, it was a ~6 hour crossing.  By the time we got inside the Bora Bora lagoon, I couldn’t wait to get in the water and off that damn boat!  Stormy skies and water notwithstanding I went for a dip.  Ended up swimming about ½ mile to shore and chatted up it up with some native lime and cherimoya farmers.  They gave me some fruit, then I swam back.  Drank about a gallon of saltwater in b/c of the chop, but I made it.  Couple otw shots of our floating house.





The torturous crossing was worth the next morning’s sunrise view of Mt. Otemanu.  From our portside stateroom, then on the deck.





Motored over to Bora Bora Yacht Club (ahahahaha) – give em a break, its still under construction.  The proprietor, an Aussie, had just purchased it two months ago. Funny, the guy’s wife was from Southern Cal!!



Cruised through town, not many souvenirs but the local fisherman were selling the days catch roadside (ahi, huge bonito, etc). 



Some of the landbound locals were also fishing with handlines in the municipal wharf.  They were mostly snagging ballyhoo/needles with treble hooks and bread crumbs, but every so often would pick up rainbow runners and other tasty reef fish.  (crack kills).







Moored up and ate dinner at world famous Bloody Marys, the seafood display is truly incredible.  The maitre d’ taking our order grew up in Newport Beach some 30 years ago, another So Cal transplant.



Next  day, swam with sharks and rays.  The rays are scarier than the sharks, much more aggressive than the blacktip reef sharks.  I kept thinking, "Crikey, don't sting me bro!"





While in Bora Bora, we saw this incredible three-masted technological marvel, the “Maltese Falcon”, built and owned by Mr. VC, Tom Perkins.  For only $40K per week, or $153M USD to purchase, you , too, can travel in style like Madonna! (Rumor was that she was aboard that week…)



Left Bora Bora back to Raiatea and Taha’a, again a 6+ hour crossing.  It took a little longer b/c I insisted we chase some birds to see if I could pick up some pelagics on the troll.  Chasing birds and bait ain’t so easy in a 44 foot cat doing 10 knots!  Hahaha.  No luck out on the big blue.

Stayed one night at the Taha’a Yacht Club.  By far the best meal we were to eat the entire trip.  I mean ridiculously good chow.  The place was run by a UC Davis grad and his French wife with help from two Polynesian women.  Funny talking to the guy about surfing Waddell Creek in the middle of Tahiti!
Next day we went over to Anapa Pearl Farm.  Throughout the archipelago, you’ll see huts on stilts like this in the middle of the lagoon  - signify pearl farms.



Pearl aquaculture is second only to tourism for GDP, really fascinating.  They grow black-lipped oysters on huge stringers, treating each individual one the utmost care.



The farm was harvesting oysters in waters up to 30 meters.  Was cool to swim among the deep stringers.



The technicalities of the grafting process are beyond the scope of this report… let’s just say this native is giving that bivalve a voodoo circumcision which eventually produces super flashy Tahitian black pearls.  All techniques derived from the pioneering Japanese researcher Mikimoto-san.



As the guy discards the oyster remnants the fish congregate like panhandlers to Union Square.  I dove down to pay em a visit.  Soon had em feeding from my hand, pretty cool.



I was told fishing was likely going to suck for pelagic species, I found that to be true under my circumstances.  I only caught one tuna on the troll dragging a Magnum Rapala in mack pattern.  (I think most of the time we were just going too damn fast.)





We ate this guy (little tunny?) ceviche style on baguette toast points.

Picked up a couple interesting lagoon species, including what I think are bat fish, cubera snapper, and squirrelfish.





Lots of swimming, diving, eating, exploring, and eating tropical fruits from the trees.  Wish it had rained more, b/c when it did, there were lots of gorgeous rainbows.

As far as yakfishing, it really hasn’t caught on in Tahiti.  I did not see even one yakfisher.  I took out one of those crappy French boats and trolled and jigged a kastmaster for a few reef fish hits, but nothing stuck.  I’m sure had I given it some more time, I coulda picked up something. 



I was looking to try out an outrigger canoe, and go out like these guys. 



Unfortunately for me, all the canoes were taken up by people training for the Heiva Festival.  It’s supposed to be the biggest party of the year, and they have all kinds of traditional contests, including dancing, outrigger canoe racing, a long distance footrace while shoulder-carrying a bushel of bananas.  Pretty neat stuff.

Wow, what can I say???  Awesome report!  Thanks for sharing, Martin!

Io Rana' (hello in Tahitian), been 3X including to Raitea once.  As far as yak fishing down there, they've been fishing in parogues (outriggers) for over a 1000 years, I had the pleasure of being in the water with some locals a few times & those guys are amazing, they think nothing of paddling 8 miles or going far offshore.

THAT PLACE IS AWESOME!!! You're report is great, thanks for sharing!!!

PJ

PS, Anyone who thinks France sucks (Tahiti being a French territory), has never been to a public beach in Tahiti, or France for that matter. Needless to say they're not ashamed of their bodies & don't wear much.

Io Rana' (hello in Tahitian), been 3X including to Raitea once.

OMG now you disclose?!    Where were you two months ago when I put out the call for info?!   My sister went last year and gave me the low down, but it was still a complete mystery heading in, specially since I don't speak the native tongues.

Thanks for the adventure Martin did Toby bowl you over when you got back or was he pissed not to have gone?

Io Rana' (hello in Tahitian), been 3X including to Raitea once.

OMG now you disclose?!    Where were you two months ago when I put out the call for info?!   My sister went last year and gave me the low down, but it was still a complete mystery heading in, specially since I don't speak the native tongues.

sorry bud, must of missed it, I even have a distant friend on Raitea w/ a boat. call me next time for sure.

pj

oh yeah, get this, Budweiser is an IMPORT!!!

Hi Martin. Was about to put out an APB for you, since it's been a while since you told me your plans. Glad you had a good time. Honestly, though, for TEN people, that doesn't look like a lot of luggage for that length of trip. You must have been washing laundry every day.

You must have been washing laundry every day.

With luggage restrictions for weight and number, we had to economize.  It was never a big deal b/c as you would guess, 3/4 of the time was spent in the water.  Daily attire for me was a swimming brief, shorts, and a rashguard.  So we packed relatively light, left the suits and dresses at home.    I ended up only having to do one load of laundry, which, like everything else, was beaucoup $$$.  $4-7 USD per item.  The one thing I didn't bring enough of were long sleeve shirts.  the biting insects were frickin vicious.  Slept in long sleeves despite the heat just to minimize bug exposure.

oh yeah, get this, Budweiser is an IMPORT!!!

Hinano is the local brew, and everyone universally panned it as tasting gross.

did Toby bowl you over when you got back or was he pissed not to have gone?

Im not sure who was happier when I got home, him or me!  The iPhone was great, so handy for SMS texts with our housesitter and our dog walker to get daily reports on the mutt to confirm everything was OK and he was having a good time.  Then came home and saw pee stains on the rugs, drapes, and hardwood floors...

WOW!...that's one heck of a trip, followed by one helluva report!   
Thanks for sharing and saving me some serious cash. Even though "being there" is the real deal!....just seeing pics and reading others experiences is
  "theNEXTbestTHING"

...so far, in less than two days, I've been to the Farllons and now Tahiti(non-yak) but loved it anyway.   

Martin -

Very nice. Love those tuna.

scott

Sweet report!