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Topic: Rigging ideas for new model OK Prowler 13 Angler - Pictures?  (Read 8563 times)

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stoked4fishin

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I have a new OK Prowler 13 Angler on the way, should be here Wednesday! :smt003  I am looking for ideas on rigging FF and rod holder on the front for starters.  I ahve been searching the site, but can't find many pics.  Any ideas and/ or pics would be appreciated.


FisHunter

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Good choice!  I got this idea from someone down in the plastic navy.
It is a cutting board, cut to fit the footwell, then LEXEL ADHISIVED in. It keeps from drilling lots of holes and puts the FF in a spot that's reachable,readable and not in the wayable. I did have to drill a hole for the plug and put a rubber wire-grommet, but it is under the cutting board and not a lot of water will get to it under there.
Transducer is also LEXEL'd in the inside hull.

pic2~ top view of finshed shelf w/f.f. mount

pic3~ under the shelf shot/ one hole for the Ducer-plug and goop'd up good.

pic4~ the inside-the-hull shot/ goop'd up good.


I then stacked&glued some cutting board to raise the highth of the holder so that the reels(spinning) don't hit and the pole-butt doesn't bottom out against the yak.

I'll attach some pics, so you can get an idea......there's no RIGHT or WRONG way to this stuff.....but less holes in a boat is a GOOD THING.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2008, 03:47:09 PM by FisHunter »
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SteveS doesn't kayak anymore

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what is the adhesive you used?


FisHunter

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Lexel....from AceHardware.    I think any Marine adhisive will work. I can lift the yak by grabbing that piece...it holds good....used a piece of cardboard as a template.
When I did it, I did not realize that when tipped upside-down, the front and rear points of the yak, keep the F.F mount from hitting ground too. So if dropped or when rolling it over, NO DAMAGE to MOUNT!
....BUTiWILLactLIKEiPLANNEDit! :smt003
« Last Edit: June 10, 2008, 01:04:54 PM by FisHunter »
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SteveS doesn't kayak anymore

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Thanks!

I have always had a hard time finding something that would bond to the hull well.


FisHunter

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Someone said that they had a problem with it MELTING, but they lived up in DevilsLand somewhere and he stored it upside-down.
Don't forget to "scuff-up" the area some.
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Marmite

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The first time I installed a FF I used Marine Goop and it worked for about 3 years, but then it started to intermittantly loose contact with the bottom.  Someone, maybe Chuck, told me that Goop eventually forms bubble over time, so I took it off and, sure enough, there were very small bubbles that had formed in the thin layer of goop.  So after talking with the guy at Outbackkayak, I decided to try Lexan because he said that they used it to glue all the foam bulkheads in their SIKs.  It is less viscous than Goop, so I thought maybe it would be less likely to trap any air during the installation.  But I was really dissappointed with it later.  Within a short time the FF was not reading properly, and when I removed it, it seemed like it really was not adhering as well as the Goop did, seemed less firm, more elastic.  Anyway, that's been my experience with Lexan.


ZeeHokkaido

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The first time I installed a FF I used Marine Goop and it worked for about 3 years, but then it started to intermittantly loose contact with the bottom.  Someone, maybe Chuck, told me that Goop eventually forms bubble over time, so I took it off and, sure enough, there were very small bubbles that had formed in the thin layer of goop.  So after talking with the guy at Outbackkayak, I decided to try Lexan because he said that they used it to glue all the foam bulkheads in their SIKs.  It is less viscous than Goop, so I thought maybe it would be less likely to trap any air during the installation.  But I was really dissappointed with it later.  Within a short time the FF was not reading properly, and when I removed it, it seemed like it really was not adhering as well as the Goop did, seemed less firm, more elastic.  Anyway, that's been my experience with Lexan.

Go for the foam puck technique. You'll never have to worry about bubbles in any adhesive again. :smt002

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FisHunter

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Go for the foam puck technique. You'll never have to worry about bubbles in any adhesive again. :smt002

Z
[/quote]
soooo, you glue the "puck" down and wedge the transducer into it? that's it?  or is that the "fill it with water" dealeo?
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Usagi

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soooo, you glue the "puck" down and wedge the transducer into it? that's it?  or is that the "fill it with water" dealeo?

Glue the puck down, fill about halfway with water (I use my water bottle) and wedge the transducer into the puck until water squeezes past the sides.  Go catch fish.  :smt003
You don't quit playing because you get old, you get old because you quit playing...


FisHunter

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soooo, you glue the "puck" down and wedge the transducer into it? that's it?  or is that the "fill it with water" dealeo?

Glue the puck down, fill about halfway with water (I use my water bottle) and wedge the transducer into the puck until water squeezes past the sides.  Go catch fish.  :smt003
if i start to have issues?....i'll be adopting that style.
Be Safe, Not Sorry = B'ropeUpFool!

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ZeeHokkaido

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soooo, you glue the "puck" down and wedge the transducer into it? that's it?  or is that the "fill it with water" dealeo?

Glue the puck down, fill about halfway with water (I use my water bottle) and wedge the transducer into the puck until water squeezes past the sides.  Go catch fish.  :smt003
if i start to have issues?....i'll be adopting that style.

No doubt. I gooped the trans down on my first yak and some 3+ years later it's still all good. If you do get issues I think the puck is the way to go.. but if it ain't broke..  :smt002

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Fish Master1

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Heres how I did mine...
..........Sincerly A-Hull Muggle.


 

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