New Dungeness Crab Marker buoy requirements

These rules caught me by surprise, and I know it's not going to to any good but I wrote a comment to the Director of the F&GC anyway. I can see a second smaller bouy to mark the pots of commercial fishermen as they can make it easier to see which way the current is running whhich can make a difference which way to run their string of gear.

"To all it may concern,

This note is in regard to the new Recreational Dungeness Crab rules.
I feel that the new regulations with the mandated float sizes will lead to an increased number of lost traps and whale entanglements. I know the comment period is over, but I will still voice my concern.

 I have been using a kayak to fish and crab out of Crescent City for about 35 years. Prior to that I worked as a deckhand on commercial crab boats. With my kayak I use the 2’X2’X1’ Danielson traps. As these pots are very light and move about quite easily I weight them with a piece of ˝” rebar. In addition to that I use one small float, marked with my GO ID number, of course. And I weight the line so none floats on the surface.

 
I start off with a commercial size float and then cut them into 1” thick donut shaped pieces. I find this is enough float to float the line as well as minimize trap movement due to ocean currents. Even using the small floats it’s easy to locate them since I can mark where I dropped using the GPS technology on my phone. Possibly when the cost comes down a little more I can mark my buoys with a transmitter so they can more easily be tracked; but I know that this is the direction that the situation is trending.

 I have found through experience that using larger buoys/floats allow the traps to be easily transported by ocean action and/or currents that arise from a high/low tide difference. The smaller floats that I presently use minimize the drag of waves so they have minimal effect on trap movement.

Because of the new mandated increased size of the floats, what I believe will happen is that as light as the traps are and with the increased buoyancy of larger floats this will serve to make the traps move around and be lost much easier. They will be transported and either wash ashore or move into deeper water; and basically be suspended bobbing up and down posing a navigational hazard to boats and an increased risk to migration of whales. They will end up being much like a lost fishing net that goes on fishing ‘forever.’ Especially, given the fact that they need only be checked every nine days. If anything, there should be a much shorter time period to check the pots. I have had my traps ‘sanded in’ in as little as two days.

 Anyway, just my thoughts.
Thank you,
Jim Hooper'

What do you guys think? Am I missing something here? My system seems to work for me. I think that with the new rules I'll lose more pots.

These rules caught me by surprise, and I know it's not going to to any good but I wrote a comment to the Director of the F&GC anyway. I can see a second smaller bouy to mark the pots of commercial fishermen as they can make it easier to see which way the current is running whhich can make a difference which way to run their string of gear.

"To all it may concern,

This note is in regard to the new Recreational Dungeness Crab rules.
I feel that the new regulations with the mandated float sizes will lead to an increased number of lost traps and whale entanglements. I know the comment period is over, but I will still voice my concern.

 I have been using a kayak to fish and crab out of Crescent City for about 35 years. Prior to that I worked as a deckhand on commercial crab boats. With my kayak I use the 2’X2’X1’ Danielson traps. As these pots are very light and move about quite easily I weight them with a piece of ˝” rebar. In addition to that I use one small float, marked with my GO ID number, of course. And I weight the line so none floats on the surface.

 
I start off with a commercial size float and then cut them into 1” thick donut shaped pieces. I find this is enough float to float the line as well as minimize trap movement due to ocean currents. Even using the small floats it’s easy to locate them since I can mark where I dropped using the GPS technology on my phone. Possibly when the cost comes down a little more I can mark my buoys with a transmitter so they can more easily be tracked; but I know that this is the direction that the situation is trending.

 I have found through experience that using larger buoys/floats allow the traps to be easily transported by ocean action and/or currents that arise from a high/low tide difference. The smaller floats that I presently use minimize the drag of waves so they have minimal effect on trap movement.

Because of the new mandated increased size of the floats, what I believe will happen is that as light as the traps are and with the increased buoyancy of larger floats this will serve to make the traps move around and be lost much easier. They will be transported and either wash ashore or move into deeper water; and basically be suspended bobbing up and down posing a navigational hazard to boats and an increased risk to migration of whales. They will end up being much like a lost fishing net that goes on fishing ‘forever.’ Especially, given the fact that they need only be checked every nine days. If anything, there should be a much shorter time period to check the pots. I have had my traps ‘sanded in’ in as little as two days.

 Anyway, just my thoughts.
Thank you,
Jim Hooper'

What do you guys think? Am I missing something here? My system seems to work for me. I think that with the new rules I'll lose more pots.

Add more rebar..

Side note, do y'all weigh down your hoops? If so how much weight (do you just attach them to the edges?)

I'm going w/ambush hoops and don't rly have any experience dropping these off a yak.

Side note, do y'all weigh down your hoops? If so how much weight (do you just attach them to the edges?)

I'm going w/ambush hoops and don't rly have any experience dropping these off a yak.

I add about 3# of rebar to my ambush hoops. That's 2 24" pieces of 1/2 rebar. I bend it to match the curve of the big ring and paint it so it does not rust. I find tying them on with cord works better than zip ties that work loose after awhile. I put them on the inner side of the trap so they are out of the way. Make sure you have plenty of extra rope or they will move with wave action, especially in deep water on days with bigger swells. That said, since they aren't down that long movement is not usually a big problem. One plus of these light traps is that the buoys we have to use will float them so if they fall off your kayak and the line is tied you won't lose them.

My ambush hoops are heavier than my Promar collapsible traps.  I weigh neither of them down, but I also don't let them soak overnight.

My ambush hoops are heavier than my Promar collapsible traps.  I weigh neither of them down, but I also don't let them soak overnight.

I didn't used to weight them down until one day when I was out in Tomales bay and I looked over and saw a buoy that looked like mine. I took a closer look and sure enough it was mine. I guess the current moved my trap a little deeper than my rope and it floated away. I saw it about a half mile from where I set it.

It will be the first time I've used the normal crab buoys, instead of my 2Liter home made ones.  I always use a main line, and then a 15ft buoy line.  My main line is weighted, so it sinks the extra of line for my buoy, but unless the swell is very high, I dont think it will affect my pot because there is more than enough travel for swells to pass without straining the main line.  But will see how it works out with the new crab floats.  I really liked my old ones, as I had weighted the buoys so that they stand straight up.  Can see my buoys vs. others from far away.

It will be the first time I've used the normal crab buoys, instead of my 2Liter home made ones.  I always use a main line, and then a 15ft buoy line.  My main line is weighted, so it sinks the extra of line for my buoy, but unless the swell is very high, I dont think it will affect my pot because there is more than enough travel for swells to pass without straining the main line.  But will see how it works out with the new crab floats.  I really liked my old ones, as I had weighted the buoys so that they stand straight up.  Can see my buoys vs. others from far away.

I think you can still use your home-made floats, just need to add markers. New regs state main buoy needs to be at least 5" x 11" - doesn't state any other specifications

It will be the first time I've used the normal crab buoys, instead of my 2Liter home made ones.  I always use a main line, and then a 15ft buoy line.  My main line is weighted, so it sinks the extra of line for my buoy, but unless the swell is very high, I dont think it will affect my pot because there is more than enough travel for swells to pass without straining the main line.  But will see how it works out with the new crab floats.  I really liked my old ones, as I had weighted the buoys so that they stand straight up.  Can see my buoys vs. others from far away.

I think you can still use your home-made floats, just need to add markers. New regs state main buoy needs to be at least 5" x 11" - doesn't state any other specifications

That's how I read the regulations.  Unless there is a definition of "surface buoy" that I can't find.  It appears in other department literature that it intended to require standardized main buoys, but then forgot to put that in the regulation.  2L pop bottles should be fine assuming they are at least 5" diameter and 11" in length.

Looks like they are only 4", although I also used GatorAid bottles, I think they were similar size.  May still remake some if I can find a size that works, but already bought 4 standard ones to use.

I ended up cutting an old "standard" buoy into three sections that are 3" x 5" each. I'll paint them red and be done with it.

Gonna measure my white Clorox bleach buoys when I get home😀. I know they are at least 5”” diameter. But the lenght?🤔

I ended up cutting an old "standard" buoy into three sections that are 3" x 5" each. I'll paint them red and be done with it.

The red 3x5 are out everywhere locally.
Is it the regular pool noodle from store? If you have a link that would be great.

Was gonna use red duck tape over some pool noodles but found the bouys at Hi's, $4 a piece.

My hoop net/conical traps had me feeling inadequate, but the new regs are making me feel better about them.