Wanting some opinions on a yak attack cell block

I have two kayaks and wanted to get a fish finder for them. I wanted to use one and transfer it to my other kayak. The second is a vibe yellow fin tandem. I want to be able to move from kayak to kayak and move around from double to single on the vibe. I done like wiring along the hull. Normally I run everything in the hull so not mush wiring is seen. Someone recommend going to the cellblock. I  was wondering if anyone could give me some info in it if they have one on their kayak. I was also think of using a small garmin on it.

Thanks

You can buy a second transducer and power cord and just leave one set in each kayak. Then you just have to switch the head unit. That's what I did with my ff.

Thanks I will look into that

it's actually a very inexpensive option, the cords and transducer aren't much.

I once had 2 kayaks using the same FF and Transducer. I made a transducer thru-hull with a pool noodle snug fit the transducer. I just fill it with water to keep the contact. Never had issues.

Thanks guys

I have a similar situation. I share my fishfinder with my dad and his canoe. I have the power cable permanently installed since extra power cables are really cheap. For the transducer I gooped a GoPro mount to the side of my kayak and clip/unclip the transducer. It has been through ALOT (including some terrible surf launches and landings).

I have a Revo 11 which sadly does not have a built-in transducer mount.

I have a similar situation. I share my fishfinder with my dad and his canoe. I have the power cable permanently installed since extra power cables are really cheap. For the transducer I gooped a GoPro mount to the side of my kayak and clip/unclip the transducer. It has been through ALOT (including some terrible surf launches and landings).

I have a Revo 11 which sadly does not have a built-in transducer mount.

Go pro mount is a great idea! What is that white sheet material you have underneath your kayak and go pro mount?

Use duct seal (duct putty).
I used the pic below as an example, but make the walls much taller.
Once you have your putty 'enclosure' in place, line the whole thing with saran wrap. This way the putty won't stick to the transducer. Put a little water in it, set your TD in the water then fold the walls over the TD to keep it in place.
When you are done open the walls and remove the TD.
Run your FF cables under the hatch like the pic below.
I have been using this method for well over 10 years in a bunch of different kayaks and it has not failed me.
What is really nice is the entire unit can be removed, rinsed and stored dry. It takes no time to set up and no time to remove.

What is that white sheet material you have underneath your kayak and go pro mount?

3 layers of Gorilla Tape lol. I used an entire roll. Applied it in 2018 and haven't had to change it.

https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-6025302-White-Tough-Wide/dp/B07LFZF9KN

I have a Cell Blok I'm not using that I could sell to you for cheap. I wouldn't recommend putting a lead-acid battery in it and mounting it on a gear track on the side of the kayak. I tried that on my Hobie Compass, and the weight of the battery caused the kayak to list to the side. If you're going to mount it somewhere other than the side rail, or if you're going to use a lighter battery like LiFePo4, then it should be fine.