Repair/Replace Rudder pull Up Line for Revo 13

Aloha Bruddahs,
The main rudder line on my 2016 Revo 13 is getting frayed where it cinches up on the cleat to lick the rudder in the down position.Does anyone know where I can the line replaced, I live in Oakland.
Also does anyone know I’d there is some kind of link or YouTube instructional video to do it yourself. I just don’t want to be out the ocean and have the line break and have no rudder control!!
Have a great Thanksgiving!!
Mahalo,
Michael da Bruddah Yamagata
510-282-4831

Pic of 25” Lassen Trout I hauled in last Friday🎣🐟🙏🌈😎

I'm sure CCK can do it.  Or you can order the lines online and there are numerous U-Tube videos available.  Actually, I think there were some NCKA posts that showed how to do it.  I recall doing it once on my Outfitter.  Wasn't as complex as I thought it initially was.

You can download instruction from the following site:

https://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/Twist-n-Stow_Repair_Manual.pdf

It is easy to follow.  Make sure you get the line and tube assembly to make your job easier.

Paul

Mahalo Paul,
I will take a look at the YouTube video.
Happy Thanksgiving 🌈🙏😎

It's actually really simple. West marine sells thick spectra - bring in a sample of your old one, and take pictures of the line threading and the knots.
I did it for the TI a few months back.

Very doable by your self. There are a few threads on here and lots of other info online.

While you are at it check the pulleys on the inside for wear and check the guide tubes where the lines come out of the hull.

Rudder lines will never break at a convenient time. If they look frayed, it's smart to replace them before they break.  It's also a good idea to buy a supply of spectra or dyneema rudder line, and to keep that spare line with your kayaking equipment so you can replace lines when you're on the road if necessary.

A replacement rudder line for a Hobie twist and stow rudder is pretty simple - it's just a length of spectra line about six feet long with a loop in one end made with an overhand knot. Note how your frayed lines are installed before you remove them, and particularly note where the little black eyelets which fit into the stern end of the line guide tubes are located, so you can install them correctly on the new rudder line.  You should be able to feed the rudder line through the guide tube without a lot of trouble if you remove the eyelet from the end of the guide tube, and then string it on the rudder line and slide it down the line to the end of the guide tube. A pair of forceps is useful to hold the rudder line under tension while you attach it to the rudder. With a little thinking you can get the line adjusted to the right length, so the bungie cord will retract the "lower the rudder" handle back to the hull when the rudder is down, and will retract the "raise the rudder" handle back to the hull when the rudder is up.

What everybody else said—it’s a lot easier than it looks, as it’s pretty ingenious how the lines connect together. Just be sure to use the same heavy duty spectra. I’m not sure whether you can actually get that at West Marine or not...