Thule Hullavator and Hobie AI

If you choose the right nuts/bolts its perfectly safe.  All mobile items from trailers to cars are put together with nuts & bolts.  Every trailer I've ever worked on has been, for the most part, uses u-bolts/nuts to hold the axle to the springs & tthere isn;t a location ore subject to breakage or shear force than THAT location sooo ....  I'm just sayin'

If you choose the right nuts/bolts its perfectly safe.  All mobile items from trailers to cars are put together with nuts & bolts.  Every trailer I've ever worked on has been, for the most part, uses u-bolts/nuts to hold the axle to the springs & tthere isn;t a location ore subject to breakage or shear force than THAT location sooo ....  I'm just sayin'

How well would a custom bolted trailer go over with the motor vehicle department down there? Speaking of dmv down there what are the requirements for  custom built trailer for a title and plates, not required up here.

If you choose the right nuts/bolts its perfectly safe.  All mobile items from trailers to cars are put together with nuts & bolts.  Every trailer I've ever worked on has been, for the most part, uses u-bolts/nuts to hold the axle to the springs & tthere isn;t a location ore subject to breakage or shear force than THAT location sooo ....  I'm just sayin'

How well would a custom bolted trailer go over with the motor vehicle department down there? Speaking of dmv down there what are the requirements for  custom built trailer for a title and plates, not required up here.

My interpretation is that he is looking at a 'stock' & modifying to suit his needs by bolting the needed accessories such as cross bars & kayak holders/saddles as opposed to welding those items in place.  In regards to bolted together trailers, no issues because a number of trailer manufacturers are all bolt together sold thru such companies as west marine, harbor freight, tractor supply, northern tool, etc with no registration issues.  Home built has no issues in CA.  Just built & registered a custom camper/trailer about a year ago.

After rereading that again I see where he said bolt to the "deck" and yes totally doable. Also I would use hitch pins not bolts so you can easily remove the rack and have a flat bed, but custom built around your boat is always better if the price is right and the work is quality.
I personally wouldn't tow any trailer that is bolted together even empty, too much waiting to go wrong and I'm not one to be responsible for damage caused by inferior manufacturing even if it saves a couple hundred bucks...... I buy harbor freight tools if I need to cut and customize the tool or expect it to break as I'm using it, expendable tools. Now I do buy stuff there just nor anything I rely on for safety.

After rereading that again I see where he said bolt to the "deck" and yes totally doable. Also I would use hitch pins not bolts so you can easily remove the rack and have a flat bed, but custom built around your boat is always better if the price is right and the work is quality.
I personally wouldn't tow any trailer that is bolted together even empty, too much waiting to go wrong and I'm not one to be responsible for damage caused by inferior manufacturing even if it saves a couple hundred bucks...... I buy harbor freight tools if I need to cut and customize the tool or expect it to break as I'm using it, expendable tools. Now I do buy stuff there just nor anything I rely on for safety.

The use of the correct bolts (hardware) will be stronger than welds found on most factory trailers.  Even the suspension under your car is bolted together.  Hardware can & will break if the improper hardware is used an improper inspection / maintenance is not followed.  I typically use a mix of welding & fastening in all my mechanical assemblies.  In any case, sounds like the option of taking a stock trailer & modifying it with the racks you need is within your capabilities.  I sold his brother my Trailex trailer specific for hauling an AI.  Oh wait ... it was bolted together.  Doh!

These are awesome to build off of... Snowbear

Looks like a nicely built trailer for sure.  Not sure I've ever seen that brand down here before. 

There from Canadia "Aye"

I think a hullavator would work fine.  They have a weight limit, but its more for CYA for the manufacturer.  No matter how much you load on it, it will provide about 40lbs lift assist.  I use the hullavator for my SP13, which is a pig at over 90lbs, and it works rather easily (actually difficult for me since my subaru is so low to the ground).  For your SUV, it should be easy.  Just don't set the hullavators too far apart or it will be difficult to reach them with both arms at same time.

Sorry for the barrage of posts lately. Trying to get things figured out!

I have a Thule Sliptream roof rack on a Chevy Tahoe. This is no biggie for my Trident 13, kind of a pain for my Predator, but rather difficult for my 2015 Hobie AI. It's much heavier, longer, and I'm not comfortable dragging it on pavement (The Predator has a steel part that can be replaced if it wears out, and I can lift the Trident easily).

So, I found a decent deal on a Thule Hullavator. I'm unsure if it will work, and it's too expensive to guess. I'm worried that the 115# weight of the AI body without ama's is going to be too much for the Hullavator to support.

Anyone have direct experience with this weight rating? I know I'll need to do most of the lifting to get the kayak back up, I'm not worried about that as I'm more than strong enough. I just don't want to damage the Hullavator and piss away $450.

Let me know, thanks!

Place your AI in the floor on top of a pvc pipe till you find dead center. Mark that area with a piece of tape it will help you center on the Hullavators. It's important to be center on them. you run the risk of bending or tweaking the arms structure at the joints.