Hobie rudder line repair

Hello world.

Today I was adding yet another Scotty mount to my 2013 Hobie Adventure (pre-Revolution 16) and I accidentally cut thru one of the rudder lines. It's one of the lines that turns the rudder, not the up/down lines. Anyways, now I've got a project for tomorrow...

I just noticed Al's excellent tutorial

http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php?topic=54510.msg614512#msg614512

and I will look that over carefully.

For my case, it seems that it would be fairly easy to splice the cut line together and be done with it. But I'm wondering whether it might be better to replace the line, or maybe even replace all of the lines. Do the lines wear out? The kayak has gotten a fair bit of use/abuse over the last 3 years. Any thoughts?

Lines can get dried/rotten over time.  Sometimes a little wear in areas that they rub or make tighter turns.

I am getting ready to install some gear tracks on my hobie.  I was looking at where I am supposed to drill the holes and realized the rudder lines runs just under the spot where the screws will be.  Could they rub on the screws and break.  Glad to know there is a tutorial out there but not sure if I should put goop or silicone over the protruding screws.  Anyone have issue like that.  At least I now know I should move the lines while drilling.

I'm wondering whether it might be better to replace the line, or maybe even replace all of the lines.

This ^^^

They do wear out/rot.
Not only will yo be WAY more familiar with your kayak after doing it, but you'll have peace of mind knowing it's new....and done.

I'm wondering whether it might be better to replace the line, or maybe even replace all of the lines.

This ^^^

They do wear out/rot.
Not only will yo be WAY more familiar with your kayak after doing it, but you'll have peace of mind knowing it's new....and done.

OK, thanks. I'd like to get this done today. Any place local (to the San Jose area) that might have this in stock? Or maybe West Marine has something equivalent?

I am getting ready to install some gear tracks on my hobie.  I was looking at where I am supposed to drill the holes and realized the rudder lines runs just under the spot where the screws will be.  Could they rub on the screws and break.  Glad to know there is a tutorial out there but not sure if I should put goop or silicone over the protruding screws.  Anyone have issue like that.  At least I now know I should move the lines while drilling.

I've got all kinds of things mounted on my kayak, and I've never had any trouble with the lines getting frayed from rubbing bolts/nuts. I'd cut off the ends of the bolts (and file smooth) so they don't protrude below the nut. And, if you are really concerned, you can add a section of tubing to protect the cable.

I am getting ready to install some gear tracks on my hobie.  I was looking at where I am supposed to drill the holes and realized the rudder lines runs just under the spot where the screws will be.  Could they rub on the screws and break.  Glad to know there is a tutorial out there but not sure if I should put goop or silicone over the protruding screws.  Anyone have issue like that.  At least I now know I should move the lines while drilling.

I've got all kinds of things mounted on my kayak, and I've never had any trouble with the lines getting frayed from rubbing bolts/nuts. I'd cut off the ends of the bolts (and file smooth) so they don't protrude below the nut. And, if you are really concerned, you can add a section of tubing to protect the cable.

Thanks. 

I am getting ready to install some gear tracks on my hobie.  I was looking at where I am supposed to drill the holes and realized the rudder lines runs just under the spot where the screws will be.  Could they rub on the screws and break.  Glad to know there is a tutorial out there but not sure if I should put goop or silicone over the protruding screws.  Anyone have issue like that.  At least I now know I should move the lines while drilling.

I've got all kinds of things mounted on my kayak, and I've never had any trouble with the lines getting frayed from rubbing bolts/nuts. I'd cut off the ends of the bolts (and file smooth) so they don't protrude below the nut. And, if you are really concerned, you can add a section of tubing to protect the cable.

Thanks.

And one other thing to consider... There are some bungees that tension the cables. In one case, I tied one of those bungees to something internal (scupper hole, I think) thereby pulling the cables over, so they now run at a slightly different angle and theeby avoid some bolts.

  I don't know what diameter line your kayak has, but I was able to find some dacron line at West Marine for my P15 that was about 1/8-3/16" - I think it was in the part of the store where they kept stuff for dodgers (awnings) - it was wrapped in a bundle about a foot long.
   It doesn't stretch, which makes it much better for a rudder line than nylon.  I also used some of it to replace the bungie lines around the hatch and tank well - I never used those bungies, and now I can clip game clips, etc to the dacron, even put some short pieces across tied with slip knots so that I can secure the big fish I'm planning to catch onto the bow.
  One earlier repair of the lines used stainless steel leader (nylon coated) and crimps, which lasted a couple of years, but eventually rusted and broke.  Then I tried some very thick spectra, but it chafed through. 
   Only drawback of the dacron if you insist on style: it only comes in white.

Thanks for the info.

I just did a quick and dirty repair and got it working. In the process I've learned enough so that replacing all of the lines won't be intimidating---I'll do that this off season. When I do so, I'll run the cables thru a tube at the new mount I added, since there's likely to be some abrasion there and I can't seem to coax the cables to avoid rubbing. If it was the up/down lines, I wouldn't care, but it's the right/left lines and they get used a lot more...

Thanks for the info.

I just did a quick and dirty repair and got it working. In the process I've learned enough so that replacing all of the lines won't be intimidating---I'll do that this off season. When I do so, I'll run the cables thru a tube at the new mount I added, since there's likely to be some abrasion there and I can't seem to coax the cables to avoid rubbing. If it was the up/down lines, I wouldn't care, but it's the right/left lines and they get used a lot more...

I did a quick and dirty job too. I would like to spend some quality time and get it done right. If anyone knows of a youtube tutorial it would be helpful.
I still have some rudder line around my house that I would like to put to use.