Trailer revisited - Warning: Long Post

So many choices when it comes to trailers. I found it difficult to find the one that would do the job. Specifications on some of the big box store econo trailers have a “do not exceed” 45 to 50 mile per hour rating; accurate or not I left them alone. Also found ones that are rated at highway speed but are much heavier in construction and weight than I wanted to tow behind the Honda.  If you have gone through this, there may be some help in this article.

I intended to use a scupper cart to launch my Predator 13 when I bought the Malone Micro-Sport trailer and the SeaWing kayak mount (photo 1). After launching a few times with the cart, I was looking for a better way and found what some Hobie owners have done with trailers to transport as well as store their Pro Angler kayaks.

A couple of people on the Hobie Owners and North West Kayak Anglers (NWKA) forums posted photos and provided the link to a YouTube video (links at end of post), showing how their new and used trailers have been transformed for hauling and storage of the PA’s. There is a Hobie factory representative who visits their forum and has given the trailer modifications thumbs up not only for transportation, but for use to store their kayaks long term with no hull distortion (visit the forum and ask questions).

Tools Needed:
Read the article to see the tools I used and substitute if necessary to what you have available.

Home D parts list includes:
(1) Uni-Strut (brand) channel cut to fit (I believe this was sold in a 10’ length)
(2) 10 foot Schedule 40 PVC 3” conduit re-cut to 8’ (Home D should cut that for you)
(4) 1 ½’ by ½’ inch bolts and washers to fit the
(4) Uni-Strut mounting spring nuts (5 in a package)
(1) Can of Zink (cold galvanizing) spray paint
(7) 1” X 3/8” bolts, washers and Nyloc nuts for mounting the rear Uni-strut & light brackets
(4) 3” drain covers and PVC cement.
17’ Rubber backed carpet runner cut 9” wide to fit the bunks (30” wide roll sold by the foot at Home D)
(1) Quart Weldwood Contact Cement & cheap throw away brush

Other items from various suppliers:
(1) Pair Bearing Buddies size 1.98 with no threads (Item No. 1980A) from O’Reilly Auto Parts (10% discount with a VA or military I.D. card)
(1) Pair 6” oval, surface mount, Stop, Turn & tail LED lights $22.99 free shipping - ordered on EBAY from Leading Edge Trailer
(1) Aluminum flat stock bent at local metals shop for the tail light mounts Machine screws and Nyloc nuts for mounting lights to aluminum.
(1) Set of Yakima hold down straps (Internet order)
(1) Pair of Yakima ratcheting bow/stern tie-downs (Internet order)
(2) Custom made U-Bolts (see article)

When I returned home from buying the components I got a welcome surprise. The OEM hold-down fixtures and U-bolts from Malone fit the Uni-Strut perfectly (photo 2). What an easy transformation. I cut the rear Uni-Strut at 57 inches long and the front at 24 inch. Malone makes special mention it’s possible to crush the trailer tongue during trailer assembly. Rather than mount the front Uni-Strut to the bare tongue you will notice I moved it back a few inches (from the recommended spacing of 67” so the mount would be over multiple layers of metal (photo 3). In doing so I tried to use the Malone U-bolts and found they would work, but in my opinion would not have an adequate number of threads protruding above the Nyloc nut. There is a trailer supply company in town that made me two U-bolts with 1 inch longer legs.

I used a chop saw to cut the PVC tubes to 8 foot long (I’ve read some use longer including the full 10’) and measured back 12 inches on one end to drill the rear mounting hole. I started with a long ¼” drill bit to drill straight through then used a ½” bit for the bolt hole on the bottom and a 1” hole-saw on the upper side so the bolt and socket would fit from the top. After loosely mounting the rear ends I site drilled the front hole with the ¼” bit and used the ½” bit and 1” hole-saw as above.

Last is adjusting the distance between the tubes. Hobie factory representative suggest the most durable part of the hull is near the scupper holes; on the Pro Angler 14 a 12” to 12 1/2” on center width works out nicely (be sure to measure yourself). With the Old Town Predator 13 the tubes are adjusted to 15 ½” on center to support the kayak, directly under the scupper holes. Looking at the bottoms of the Outback and the Revo 13 I believe their hulls would rest nicely on round bunks as well (measure and adjust to fit).

While wandering the isles of my local Home D looking at various parts and pieces I found the 3” drain covers that fit (glue) inside the tube; certainly not premeditated just turned out I like the look. After gluing in the covers I considered the possibility of invasive species contamination. Using the 1” hole-saw I created a 1” by 2 1/2” oval slot in the bottom of the PVC tubes to make it easier to clean after a launch (not visible).

Photo 4 shows the beginning stage of the contact cement of the rubber backed carpet for the bunks. Photo 5 shows where I decided to eliminate the Malone U-bolt hold downs and instead bolt the Uni-strut directly to the rear cross member (3-nuts & bolts). Photo 6 shows the completed bunks; the arrows point to Yakima ratchet hold downs (also available at Home D under a different brand). Since the trailer assembly instructions mention the possibility of damaging the tongue, instead of buying a winch support tower which would bolt on the tongue, I’ve opted to do fore and aft tie-downs; the one running to the rear keeps the boat from moving back and the forward line keep the boat from moving forward.

Photo 7 shows the rear Yakima boat strap that I cut and refitted to act as permanently mounted tie-downs at the front and rear of the trailer. Difficult to see, but I did a lock stitch with a sewing awl to keep the straps from being stolen or possibly loosening during transport. The 1” wide black nylon plastic webbing fixture was purchased from a camping/backpacking supply shop

Photo 8 shows the completed trailer. I’ve installed locking lug nuts and keep cables with padlocks that run through the wheels and around the frame any time the trailer is parked and unattended. Not shown is an “Alarm Lock” which is usually attached to deter theft.

I have a Yakima roof rack and attached the Sea Wing; with the kayak onboard I found the wind drag on the little Honda costs me almost 15MPG. Towing the trailer, as light as it is, has shown no decrease in fuel mileage (38-40MPG) and when a cross wind comes up there is no sway like there was with a kayak top loaded. I like the trailer quite a lot; tows well at speeds well above the highway speed limits, with its long tongue it backs up easily and there is no decrease in fuel mileage… nice product and great modification; I’m quite pleased with the results.

I can use the scupper hole transport cart if needed where there is no launch ramp or when the launch is busy, however in most cases I pull up to the launching area just like a power boater, prep my boat, back the trailer down the launch ramp, off load the kayak with all equipment aboard, park and lock the trailer & car and go fishing. To make this fit another kayak, all I need do is readjust the PVC support tubes which take just a few minutes; it couldn’t be easier.

Seems like everything is a work in progress:

The next priority is an upright fiberglass pole(s), brightly colored, attached to the rear of the trailer channels. The low slung trailer is difficult to see in the side mirrors of those who drive 4x4’s and tall vehicles.

I’ll be re-doing the wiring and likely use 16 gauge tinned marine wire and self gluing heat shrink from West Marine Jewelers.

This winter I’ll redesign the bunks by raising the Uni-struts about 4 inches to clear the fenders, so as to add a second set of tubes to the trailer to pack two kayaks side by side. While I’m at it I’ll not glue in the rear 3” drain covers to aid in cleaning.

Tip: When it comes time to drop the bolt through the 3” tube while simultaneously aligning the bolt to the spring nut; you’ll find it easier if you put doubled over (sticky on both sides) duct tape inside the socket then stick the bolt into the socket so it doesn’t come off during the vertical entry… so much easier.
Put a patch of duct tape on the back side of a boxed end wrench to install nuts in blind locations. Not important on this mod, but works well when needed.

Not very many of the trailer mods are my ideas. Thanks to the Internet and data sharing I’ve been able to make a copy of what others have done before me. Credits go to the Hobie http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/ (scroll down to find Pro-Angler group)and Northwest Kayak Anglers (NWKA) forums http://www.northwestkayakanglers.com/index.php who led me to get more information as well as examples of how others transformed their trailers; and of course “MoFishYaker” who some say was first to put the modification on YouTube. Other sources are popping up all the time; don’t hesitate to look for more ideas if you become interested in this kind of transformation to your trailer.
MOfishyaker video:
   

While I'm not in the market for a trailer, I like that you put so much thought and effort into posting this article.  I'm sure that it will give others lots of ideas on how to proceed, gottat love NCKA and it's members as a fantastic source of info.

Nice detailed post, very useful and informative for the next person.

Thanks folks appreciate the kudos,

I hate taking something apart that I just finished, but due to good advice I fixed a potential problem before it turned into one. Here in Oregon we've got an invasive species permit that must be purchased every year (only $5.00 a year). It covers the cost of spot inspections to be sure we are not moving stuff from one lake to another.

I mentioned in the post the thought that I'd have to do something with those glued on end caps because it would turn into a source of complaint with the inspectors. After posting the trailer mods on the NWKA I was given advice to do it right away... forget the procrastination.

Today I took off 1 1/2" from each end of the tubes, cutting off the end caps. Then installed new end caps held in place with 1/4-20 4" long SS bolt with SS Nyloc nuts. This gives me the opportunity to properly clean inside those tubes to kill off any plants or other stuff that's hitching a ride.

FYI, The bolt and nut (no washers) are tightened to where just one thread is showing past the Nyloc nut; not actually tight against the tube. It takes three turns and the end cap is free; so easy.

It was a good advice; I'm glad I did it.