Transducer through hull - HOBIE question

I'm putting in a new Lowrance HDI Elite4 into my very small Hobie Mirage Sport.   The transducer is much larger than the one on my previous FF so I'm going to have to move it.     I originally put the old one forward of the pedal, aft of the mast.

I am considering putting this one aft of the pedal -- directly below the "tackle box" hatch that sits right in front of me.  There is room for it and the bottom is relatively flat for a good "goop" connection.

I wonder if I will have problems with interference from the pedals ?/  (cavitation) …  Any thoughts?

I'm probably committed to this but I figured I'd fire the question out there anyway.

dave   

I have an AI & an Elite HDI unit.  My transducer is forward of the mast step.  I thought about cavitation issues as well and decided not to take the chance & went forward.  I opted for a wet bath install.  The HDI transducers tend to work better in this manner from my experience.

Duct putty, wet bath install, just forward of the mast.
Hobie Adventure, Hobie Revo.
Lowrance Elite 5 DSI.
'Nuf said. 

The HDI transducers take 1 to 1-1/2 bricks of Duct seal.  I tried that first.  Went with a foam block & used GOOP to set the block in place.

I can't fit the new transducer in the old spot, aft of the mast but forward from the pedals.  That space is just too small. 

 If I go FORWARD of the mast then I've got problems with my battery hitting the transducer.  I'm hanging my battery in a dry bag from the mast, the same way I did my "batter pack" with the smaller, older Lowrance FF.

I keep ending up with the only solution is to go aft of the pedals because of the battery.   I have the LITTLE hobie sport.

I think I'm stuck with that solution.

I'm gonna need a bigger boat.   

d 

I am considering putting this one aft of the pedal -- directly below the "tackle box" hatch that sits right in front of me.  There is room for it and the bottom is relatively flat for a good "goop" connection.

I did this before in my old kayak.  I put it a little further back to avoid the cavitation more- about 6 inches back, and also to avoid the gear bucket from accidentally hitting it.  I saw no issues with the transducer placement, although it was a little more difficult to service (less light and a tighter hatch).

Also, I've done what I call the "temporary transducer mount" a few times.  I put the transducer in a plastic zip lock bag (not the cheap ziplocks, the good ones with zippers), fill it with water and place it around the kayak so the ducer sits flat on the bottom.  It actually works pretty well and is great for testing or traveling when you're not in your own boat.

I used one that way for quite a while with my SINK yak.  Caught my biggest ling when rigged that way.

I put a pad eye on the top inside of the yak about even with the middle right side of the hatch and hang my battery bag there. No issues.
You could also do it to the bow.

Does anyone know of any video about installing a transducer in an AI? Thanks

THANKS TO ALL FOR THE ADVICE! -- I had to get this done today so I made a few decisions and now it's done … for good or bad.   

I fired it up in the garage this evening and everything seemed to work.  I hope to give it an OTW test up in Humboldt later this week which is why I had to get it done today!

I'm letting it "cure" overnight now, but here are some pix I took.

http://s902.photobucket.com/user/DaveTheSynthGuy/library/NewFishFinderInstall

I'm going to clean up the wires, take some shots of the battery install and then put some pix up tomorrow.  I'm not a very "handy" guy but I have a real sense of accomplishment.

Thanks again!   

I did the same thing in my last install. The transducer in the hull with goop worked as well as my scupper hole transducer in my trident 13.