Crack in scupper hole

 been watching you tube and reading threads here dealing with crack repair..lots of good info...the repair I need to make is actually inside the scupper hole..one idea here was just to plug it completely ..anyway with everything i`ve read and watched i`m kind of overwhelmed with ideas and not sure the route ..Gonna post a pic of the damage again and if anyone has anything else to add... go for it

Were you able to actually locate the crack? Which scupper is the crack in? What I mean is can you access the scupper from inside the boat?

How far down the scupper from the seat or how far up the scupper from the bottom of the hull is the crack? If it is within a couple inches of the surface, it can be repaired. If it is really far down out of reach, then you are out of luck.

That doesn't look good to me. Looks like the scupper tubed is deformed. Did you buy it used or new?

My buddy's ok had hairline crack right between the seems on the scupper hole that alowed about a gallon n a half to get in on 6hr paddling. Solved problem with a good coat of Marine goop.  No priblem since

These are the videos I followed to make my repairs:





Doing the repair with the kayak elevated is highly recommended so you can access the scupper from both the top and the bottom.

Here are the list of tools you will need:
1) Contact Ocean Kayak and ask them to send you a repair kit. It will come with a small scrap cutout and plastic welding rod.
2) Heat gun.
3) 3/4" or 1" pipe long enough to extend through the scupper.
4) Dremel or a small chisel.

Steps to repair the crack:
1) Using your dremel or chisel, make the crack slightly wider and deeper (v shaped channel) so you can melt more plastic into the channel and shape it.
2) Clean the area real well. Soap and water followed by alcohol. You need to remove all oils.
3) Holding the heat gun a few inches from the scupper, point it down the scupper hole to heat up the plastic. When you see a sheen develop on the plastic, stop. At this point the plastic is just about melted and ready to weld. If you heat the plastic too much it will sag.
4) Heat the end of the welding rod until it starts to droop slightly. It is now ready to be applied.
5) Place the end of the welding rod above the crack and heat BOTH the scupper and welding rod. Then using a swirling motion, push the melted welding rod into one end of the crack, slowly swirl it as you work it along the entire length of the crack. When you get to the end of the crack, give the welding rod a quick twist as you lift it off the boat.
6) Insert the pipe into the scupper. You will use this to shape the plastic weld bead while it is still soft.
7) After you finished smoothing out the weld bead with the pipe, let it cool and inspect your weld. If the crack is deep, you may have to put down a second bead on top of the first.
8 ) Sand the weld bead to make it smooth. The repair will be noticible, but if done correctly it will hold.

Vic I'm not convinced that when you dropped your kayak you did this damage. Are you sure?  Was this the maiden voyage on that kayak for you? Can you bring it down on Monday with the trailer?

Ill fix that on Monday Vic.

5200 it from the inside. Cover the whole scupper tube all the way around. It's not pretty but it's not going to break again either.

Seeing the way the scupper looks squished, I would do the repairs, then for added strength, install a plastic through hull scupper. You can get these in different O.D. and adjustable for hull thickness. This would still give you the benefits of a scupper while adding a second layer of security against failure. This would also be a great solution for scupper hole carts to guard against wear from the lateral stress they create. West Marine has several of these types available online. Good luck with the repairs and post up the final solution.

Vic I'm not convinced that when you dropped your kayak you did this damage. Are you sure?  Was this the maiden voyage on that kayak for you? Can you bring it down on Monday with the trailer?

I do think it's possible that this damage happened from a hard hit. The hull flexes considerably and if the scupper is thin walled, it would crinkle like a beer can. This looks evident in the photo of the damage. However, you would tend to think the scuppers wall thickness would be a bit heavier in the location described, being by the seat.I bet the scupper's crinkling (sp?) took the shock out of the hit rather than poking a hole through the hull.

To do this kind of damage would have to be a direct hit right on the scupper hole of tremendous force. Not just a little drop.

Doesn't sound like it was a little drop. Especially from the top of a vehicle. Either way, kudos to you for helping him fix it.