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Topic: Thule Hullavator Question/Concern  (Read 1050 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Tote

  • One life, right? Don't blow it.
  • Global Moderator
  • Location: Diamond Springs, CA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2005
  • Posts: 12979
With both my Revo and Adventure the straps on the Hullavator do not fully engage the kayak.
There is enough room between the kayak and the rear strap that it's as if the kayak wasn't strapped down at all.
I included a photo from the Thule website.
Look at the gap between the rear strap and the kayak. It isn't even touching.
On the other side the strap barely makes contact with the kayak. Certainly not enough to secure it in place.
The front strap is a little better (because the kayak is higher profile there) but still does not fully engage the kayak.
I've had to use a 3rd strap over opposite sides of the bar to keep the kayak in place.
The whole idea of getting the Hullavator was to be able to load and strap it down at waist level.
Anyone else have this problem or a solution to this problem other than using a 3rd strap?
<=>


Hojoman

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • Location: Fremont, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2007
  • Posts: 32016
Rig a pool noodle platform above to cover the gap...or...underneath to raise the kayaks higher? I have some extra 3.5" pool noodles for you if you want to give it a shot. You would not necessarily need noodles to cover the seat of the rack.


Hojoman

  • Manatee
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  • Location: Fremont, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2007
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Option 2: Rig a strap limiter that keeps the fastened straps from sliding all the way to the end of the cradle, thereby eliminating the extra space. The kayak cushions are not rock solid hard.


Bushy

  • Administrator
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  • First, you do everything right.Then, you get lucky
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  • Location: Santa Cruz
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  • Posts: 8629
Hojo comin' through!  I'm thinking about hullavators too, getting harederand harder to racke em up solo on my van.

Bushy


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Hojoman

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • Location: Fremont, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2007
  • Posts: 32016
Lifetime warranty (barring abuse) is nice too...already put it to the test.


atavuss

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Stockton
  • Date Registered: Jul 2009
  • Posts: 1097
What if you "X" the straps if that makes sense? 
Fishing is cheaper than therapy!


Tote

  • One life, right? Don't blow it.
  • Global Moderator
  • Location: Diamond Springs, CA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2005
  • Posts: 12979
What if you "X" the straps if that makes sense?

The height of the cradles is still higher than the kayak.

Option 2: Rig a strap limiter that keeps the fastened straps from sliding all the way to the end of the cradle, thereby eliminating the extra space.

Not exactly sure what that is Hojo. Got a pic for reference?
I have a hard time seeing anything NOT slide up the bars unless it was drilled in.
« Last Edit: February 23, 2014, 06:52:13 AM by Tote »
<=>


Hojoman

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • Location: Fremont, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2007
  • Posts: 32016
Option 2: Rig a strap limiter that keeps the fastened straps from sliding all the way to the end of the cradle, thereby eliminating the extra space.

Not exactly sure what the is Hojo. Got a pic for reference?
I have a hard time seeing anything NOT slide up the bars unless it was drilled in.
[/quote]

You're probably right; my initial option is probably more do-able.


Hojoman

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • Location: Fremont, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2007
  • Posts: 32016
The option 2 idea I had in mind involved building a rope braid thick enough that the cinching strap would not be able to slide back to the end. And...it may require a second cinching strap on the opposite side, to keep the braid itself from sliding.


Salty.

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Sonoma County
  • Date Registered: Sep 2006
  • Posts: 4810
Can you run the straps around the lower part of the cradle instead of straight across/where they are run in the picture? Seems like the straps could not apply any gripping force on the kayak without wrapping around & pulling the kayak down tight to the racks. BTW, I just broke down & ordered a Thule Outrigger2 earlier today to help me load my Adventure. It only took one incident of the kayak plummeting to the ground off the back, one time of it almost sliding off the other passenger side of the truck, & one time of it almost sliding onto the hood before I finally woke up & realized I needed some help.


Tote

  • One life, right? Don't blow it.
  • Global Moderator
  • Location: Diamond Springs, CA
  • Date Registered: Jul 2005
  • Posts: 12979
BTW, I just broke down & ordered a Thule Outrigger2 earlier today to help me load my Adventure.

It's a progression; Load Bar, Hullavator.  :smt044  I've had the Yakima Load Assist for years. It definitely makes a difference.
Make sure you have something skid resistant under the end of the kayak that's on the ground when you lift the other end onto the bar. Nothing worse than getting one end on the bar, walking to the other end and watch as it slides away and your kayak crashes to the ground. BTDT.
<=>


frankfishing

  • Guest
Hojo comin' through!  I'm thinking about hullavators too, getting harederand harder to racke em up solo on my van.

Bushy
Hell I've been thinking small wench but the hullavators is an option.


Fish 'n Brew

  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Martin
  • Location: Loose Screws
  • Date Registered: May 2008
  • Posts: 2962
I run the straps just like your picture shows for my Revo.  I think the key is getting the sliding adjustment set so the yak is kind of snug even without the straps.  I always run  bow and stern lines with Thule quick-draws to prevent any forward or backward movement.  I've been using the Hullivators for 3 years and have never had a problem.


 

anything