Yakima vs Thule

I may still try to figure out some way to get that extra inch.

Jumbo Pool noodles

As mentioned earlier the rollers and saddles slip around on the round Yakima bars. 

Deck down kept hanging up and tearing the pool-noodle on some of the accessories I added; against popular demand, i went with the "Yakima Hulley Rollers" and some new fastners. (The bolts included in the kit are low tinsile strength and would cross-thread under high-torque.)

Discarded the factory bolts & wing-nuts and purchased some S/S bolts and lock-nuts; using them allowed me to wrench clamp down hard on the bar and prevent slippage. So far so good...

Also put a picture of the trailer I am building to pull behind the RV; one-side will be for the kayak and the other side for a mini-bike or dirt bike.....

G-Whiz, I was afraid that I would break the brackets if I replaced the wing nuts and bolts----obviously you tried it and they survived.  Thanks for giving me my next project!  Bow down cost me a FF mount bracket so I go right side up lately.-----Jeff

Make sure that when using the hully rollers that your scupper holes are directly above the rollers. This is where the least amount of hull distortion will take place. I have used the hully rollers for awhile and I know that in high heat it will distort the hull if left too long.

+1 to what Craig said.  Search for oil can or similar on the board to see what he's talking about.  Happened to my first OB with the same setup you have now.  Hey, you didn't say you had a trailer!  For your pimped out ride, i'd probably just use that all the time.  Seems sooo much easier to rig, launch and retrieve when you have a trailer.

G-Whiz, I was afraid that I would break the brackets if I replaced the wing nuts and bolts----obviously you tried it and they survived.  Thanks for giving me my next project!  Bow down cost me a FF mount bracket so I go right side up lately.-----Jeff

When I first just replaced the wing nut with a lock-nut and used their bolt, I had no problem putting them on; but when i tried to loosen them or remove them, damn threads jammed up the nut. Had to wrench on the nut til it broke the bolt. After breaking off 5 of the first six, i finally figured out that if I turned it a couple of turns, then let it cool down, they were less likely to bind. I think the heat from turn it caused the threads to fuse together.

I decided to replace the 'cheap' lag bolts for S/S bolts; this way, I could grab it from the bolt and nut to tighten/loosen. Think I paid $0.95 for each 5/16x 2" bolt (, $0.65 for each 5/16 locknut ( and $0.40 for each washer (16).

Make sure that when using the hully rollers that your scupper holes are directly above the rollers. This is where the least amount of hull distortion will take place.

Agreed! they will also minumize have the hull slip on the rollers...

+1 to what Craig said.  Search for oil can or similar on the board to see what he's talking about.  Happened to my first OB with the same setup you have now.  Hey, you didn't say you had a trailer!  For your pimped out ride, i'd probably just use that all the time.  Seems sooo much easier to rig, launch and retrieve when you have a trailer.

huh? search for what, where? you lost me... send me a link....

The trailer would make life a lot more convenient for kayak purposes on extend trips and when using the RV; but can't see myself hauling the trailer for day trips to HMB, Doran, Shadow Clff, unless I'm going with buddies or bringing a quiver of kayaks (like you hardcore folks)..

I tried to design the traier so I can be modular and carry a combination of dirtbikes, kayak(s), surfboard and mountain bikes. It has a fixed center column and 2 sets of adjustable arms; which can be set at various heights to put the bikes below and the kayak/surfboard on top... I had a friend (Snapperhead) weld me the arms single-sided and double-sided; while I welded the center columns. I'll post pictures afterI clean up the trailer abit.... Hoping to take it out this weekend to HMB; pending the weather is cooperative....

I attached my hully rollers and mako saddles last night with some lock nuts and washers from OSH. 

While I was working on this I cut a few pieces of anti skid shelf liner (like 3 square inches each) and put them on the clips that go on the round bars.  While tightening the bolts I realized that adding the shelf liner alone was probably enough.

A roll of the shelf liner is probably enough to do everyone on this message boards round bars... 

I was going to buy one of those fancy saddles and what not to transport my kayaks but after a tip from Chuck, I'm glad I didn't. The Thule bars are coated by
some sort of rubber plastic coat that somewhat has some grip to it. I strap the kayaks upside down and that is it. Never a problem even when speeding up a little.

Jedmo

Another vote on the Thule Square bars. Kayak stored upside down. No need for padding. No oil canning. The straps don't slip as much compared to the round bars. Simple, cheap and very effective.

I used to transport my yak upside down on my Thule bars. It was so easy and I didn't have any problems. Unfortunately when I got my 4.7 it has so much upward curvature that when I put it upside down the bow hit the roof of my truck. If you can get away with just the bars, I say go for it. I would if I could.

Just make sure you tie down correctly.

got used Rollercoaster set for sale
http://www.norcalkayakanglers.com/index.php/topic,32295.0.html