Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.
July 10, 2026, 02:30:24 PM

Login with username, password and session length

Recent Topics

[Today at 01:55:48 PM]

[Today at 01:06:18 PM]

[Today at 11:34:30 AM]

[Today at 07:50:09 AM]

[July 09, 2026, 05:27:26 PM]

[July 08, 2026, 03:41:46 PM]

[July 08, 2026, 12:22:34 PM]

[July 08, 2026, 10:31:33 AM]

[July 08, 2026, 05:47:36 AM]

[July 07, 2026, 11:12:43 PM]

[July 07, 2026, 07:16:45 PM]

[July 07, 2026, 02:29:22 PM]

[July 07, 2026, 11:31:01 AM]

[July 04, 2026, 08:59:59 PM]

[July 04, 2026, 01:18:43 PM]

[July 04, 2026, 10:52:11 AM]

by Clb
[July 04, 2026, 09:22:49 AM]

[July 03, 2026, 11:01:54 PM]

[July 03, 2026, 05:18:14 PM]

Support NCKA

Support the site by making a donation.

Topic: Ultra 4.7 FF install  (Read 3870 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

BigGabe

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Orangevale
  • Date Registered: Sep 2009
  • Posts: 476
I had a detailed step by step written, but the computer failed to post and I lost it. Oh well. Every time I try to attach pics the connection times out. I've attached plenty of pics before so who know's what's up.

The pimping process started with a Humminbird 560 from West Marine. It's not top of the line, but should work just fine for me.

I couldn't seem to find the factory transducer mount so I improvised. Besides the factory mount is 90 bucks. I mounted it using a 3.25 inch diameter pool noodle, zip ties, and some hardware store pieces. It looks like it will work fine.

I picked up a 5.5ah AGM battery from Batteries Plus for 24.99 and a charger for 21.99. I'm sure I could have shopped around and got a better deal, but it was convenient. Then I grabbed some closed cell foam from CCK and an inline fuse holder and a 3 amp fuse. I drilled tha hole and ran the power cable just below the hatch seal under where the wires run into the hatch. It's nice and tight so it shouldn't need much sealat. Besides it probably won't leak more that a couple of drops anyway. A little dielectric grease and plug everything in and it's time to fire it up. That's when I discovered that you can plug the power cable into the unit backwards because it isn't indexed. Turned it around and everything lit up.

Here are the pics.
Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience.


BigGabe

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Orangevale
  • Date Registered: Sep 2009
  • Posts: 476
Here are some of the pics
Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience.


BigGabe

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Orangevale
  • Date Registered: Sep 2009
  • Posts: 476
Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience.


Yakhopper

  • Life is Good!
  • Sea Lion
  • ****
  • Location: Medford Oregon
  • Date Registered: Oct 2007
  • Posts: 4319
Looks good and clean,
Are you going to be at the cove - I'd like to take a close look at that - mine is on it's way.
Thanks for the pics.

See Ya Soon,
Eric / Yakhopper
Hobie Outback (dune)


Dey

  • Sand Dab
  • **
  • Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2011
  • Posts: 24
nice nice. Had any thoughts on what, if anything else you are going to put on the hatch? So far all I've decided on was to mount some pliers/forceps and a knife on right in front of my fishfinder. Curious on what other people come up with.


BigGabe

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Orangevale
  • Date Registered: Sep 2009
  • Posts: 476
Yakhopper, Yes I'll be at the cove. You're welcome to check it out.

Dey, I don't have anything planned right now, but I like your ideas. I usually have some of that stuff attached within reach and mounting it there seems like it could be good so long as I can find a good way to do it. How were you planning on attaching it?
Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience.


Dey

  • Sand Dab
  • **
  • Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA
  • Date Registered: Feb 2011
  • Posts: 24
it was actually super simple. I had some knife/plier holders laying around, put a couple of 5mmx10mm screws through the fabric, and screwed them in. they hold well, aren't in my way, and are easy to get to.



ravensblack

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • Location: petaluma
  • Date Registered: Aug 2007
  • Posts: 11016
Looks pretty good Gabe. I am going to wait for the trans kit. I spoke with 2 OK reps in r+d and they confirmed that you can cut out the well below the hatch to create a rod pod again. I have some concerns with the function of certain aspects of the boat. Thats what we are doing this year. Please froward all concerns and suggestions to OK customer service. One of mine is the neoprene cover for the front hatch. There has to be a better way of sealing the lid. I am going to try a automotive weatherstrip around the lip opening. It seems that the shock cord rolls too easy off the edge when pulling it on. Ok suggets sanding the outside of the coamimng edge so it grips a bit better. Another concern was that there is no access other than the front hatch for pumping out water in case of a breach in the hull. I am going to remove a sectin of the well under the console hatch to enable a pump to be used and return  the well to a rod pod. Although I will leave the forward box in the well intact for the battery to rest in. Should be fun. See you up there at GS. I will be bringing my ultra but will fish on my T.
"I always entertain great hope" Robert Frost


BigGabe

  • Salmon
  • ***
  • Location: Orangevale
  • Date Registered: Sep 2009
  • Posts: 476
Thanks for the reply Dey. I may do something similar, but I'm concerned with the cloth material in a salt environment. The tools would rust too quickly. I'm thinking I'll have to invent something. I probably won't get the chance before Shelter Cove, but we'll see.

Craig,
I haven't used a Trident with a rod pod so I'm not sure if I want cut out the interior of the hatch or not. The rod tube they have may take care of my need. That's also going to have to wait. I also don't like that seal for the front hatch. It's way too hard to get it back on once you take it off. Let me know if you figure out something that works well. There are much better types of seals for an edge like that. I'll look too and let you know what I find. I hadn't thought about being able to pump out the hull if I had a problem. That could prove impossible with the current setup. I wonder if a small round hatch installed inside the hatch would do. There are a few other items I'm less that totally happy with. The handles are uncomfortable in the hands if you have to carry it any distance, the rudder is hard to deploy, and the nutserts in the surface of the hatch cover aren't accurately located. Like any boat, there are a few less than perfect things about it.

I can't wait to see everyone at Shelter Cove. I'm about worthless this week at work.
Never argue with an idiot. They'll just drag you down to their level, and beat you with experience.


ravensblack

  • Manatee
  • *****
  • Location: petaluma
  • Date Registered: Aug 2007
  • Posts: 11016
Gabe, I had a rop pod cover upgrade laying around that I havent put on the T-15 yet. The new gasket that comes in the kit fits perfect on the lip opening on the front hatch on the 4.7. It just needs to be trimmed to fit the opening.
"I always entertain great hope" Robert Frost