Shark Shield repair question(s)...

I bit the bullet and completely disassembled my old Shark Shield. I'd previously wired it to connect to my FF battery, and it powered up, but did not recognize that it was in the water, which seems to be sure sign of corrosion. And, yes, I found corrosion. I'm still working on that, as the corrosion on one of the wires that connects to the whip is pretty bad, so I'll have to take that all apart.

Assuming that I can fix the corrosion problem, there is another problem. When removing the wires, the rubber plugs that serve to waterproof the connection of the wires to the case got damaged. It looks to me like they are beyond repair, so I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas. I doubt those little rubber things are going to be available anywhere.

Here are a couple of (likely crazy) ideas...

1) I wonder if I could make a mold and cast replacements for those rubber connectors.

2) Maybe I could just ditch the SS case, put the electronics inside a small waterproof case, and then install my own waterproof thru connectors.

Any other possibilities and/or suggestions?

Paging Lucky13, Lucky13, Earnest, are you in the house?

I hope he throws you some ideas, he's very knowledgeable and creative.

Assuming that I can fix the corrosion problem, there is another problem. When removing the wires, the rubber plugs that serve to waterproof the connection of the wires to the case got damaged. It looks to me like they are beyond repair, so I'm wondering if anybody has any ideas. I doubt those little rubber things are going to be available anywhere.

Here are a couple of (likely crazy) ideas...

1) I wonder if I could make a mold and cast replacements for those rubber connectors.

2) Maybe I could just ditch the SS case, put the electronics inside a small waterproof case, and then install my own waterproof thru connectors.

Any other possibilities and/or suggestions?

Those injection-molded connectors look bad, but I think they are salvageable. I had fixed one that looked worst. I used 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant to filled the inside before slipping the metal connect back in, then applied more sealant on the outside. Looked ugly, but functional.
You probably already found out that you can't solder your wire to the metal connector since it is stainless. You'll have to jam the wire into the connector along with some small screw or nail to make the wire stay stuck to the connector. The trick is you can't widen the diameter of the metal connector crimp area, or you'll have a hard time slipping the plastic cover back in. (Perhaps it won't be so bad if the plastic is already mangled.)

I fixed over a dozen units by now. I haven't had to ditch the SS housing yet. If you are going to use your own enclosure, you can solder the probe wires directly to the board. That way you won't have to worry about the damaged plastics or having to mess with jamming the wires back inside the metal connectors. You probably need to solder a wire plug directly to your charging pins on the board if you're planning to continue using the original battery. Or, it might be a good time to upgrade your battery to get extended runtime, and you can just use an external charger. Many options.

I noticed you cut both plugs. I'm not sure if both wires were corroded. Replacing the wire on the upper probe is almost trivial. Replacing the lower probe wire requires cutting open over half of the the whip. I would avoid replacing the entire lower probe wire if possible. For some reason, most of the corrosion issues that I've seen seemed to occur on the upper probe wire.