Avet reels

If anyone is interested www.charkbait.com/specials.htm has a pretty good deal for the SX,MXJ and MXL. Purple or black only.

$169 for an SX is a pretty good price.  Too bad I already have two and don't need another.

Those are good prices on those reels!! I paid $204 each from a local shop for my mxj's in black.

Those are good prices on those reels!! I paid $204 each from a local shop for my mxj's in black.

... where?

you guys are the last ones in the world that should be fishing with avets!

you guys are the last ones in the world that should be fishing with avets!

Cause we don't grease drags or screw holes when we buy a new reel with too many bearings and then go and dunk them in saltwater and then keep fishing?  .

yeah, that is a test of a reel (or it's preparation) for sure...

 

you guys are the last ones in the world that should be fishing with avets!

Alan,

On a related note. What reel would you recommend for yak fishing? I know there are a million variables but considering we target rock fish, butts, stripers? Any better suited for our 'wet' fishing?

Penn Jigmaster Narrow frame

Penn Jigmaster Narrow frame

that is exactly what alan told me at the san mateo ISE show.

Penn Jigmaster Narrow frame

that is exactly what alan told me at the san mateo ISE show.

But nobody will listen to alan because they are heavy, don't come in left handed models, and there is a fear of braid slipping between the spool and frame.

nobody wants to fish with 30lb mono which is what he suggests spooling with. too had to break off! mono stretches where braid does not. so you can break off 30lb braid easy, but try to break off 30lb mono from a kayak? no fun!

However, I have to say I doubt that issue about the line between the spool and frame. if you are just jigging, when is that going to happen?

Any penn, newell, daiwa etc conventional reel with not too many bearings seems okay if all the screw holes get greased, the bearings get packed with grease, and the drag is greased. THe key tho is that no reel come like that out of the box typically.

then, after preparing the reel properly for kayak fishing, even if you do dunk the thing, it has a chance of living to when you can rinse it out and let it dry.

Chuck E chose a daiwa sealine 20 after some careful thought and he is a great fisherman and a smart cheap guy who makes good gear choices. I'd like to hear from him on how that thing has held up the last couple years, I bet that was a good choice.

Erik Kunz fished the heck out of a $70 shimano level wind and probably caught more fish on that one reel than about any other single reel on this site.

actually that would be cool to know: which reel on NCKA has landed the most lbs of fish? I'd put money on EK's shimano..

I have fished these ambassadeurs that were prepared against corrossion the alan tani way and other than a little spotting on the reel foot after I left it on the rod too long, they are still almost perfect and fully ready for another season.

I guess I should expect the anti-reverse roller bearing to fail first? I have an extra couple of those ready for that to happen, not to mention an extra few whole reels... If I could convert them to non-IAR with a dog I would probably do that, along with removing the level wind. then you end up with just brass gears and two spool bearings which you can grease. practically water proof!

I fished a newell 220 last season too (but I did prepare it by taking it apart first, greasing everything and switching the drags to greased carbon fiber). it also looks no worse for the wear after a season.

the one reel I have with corrosion issues is a shimano spheros with spool corrosion issues. too bad, smooth little spinning reel there, caught perch plus actually a ling cod with that thing.

John

I'm also guilty of putting WAY too much thought and money into finding the Perfect Kayak Reel....  For me it's the narrow Squidder, along with some of the other small, vintage Penn reels, (Surfmaster 100, 150, and Baymaster 180).

The Squidder has bearings, which I suppose will fail eventually, so perhaps I'd go with a Surfmaster 100 as the Winner.  They have the small size, the EZ takedown screw, and no bearings to fail.

And 200 yards of 20lb mono should suffice for anything we target in the salt from our yaks in this area...  So I have to ask why 30lbs mono is recommended?

And I've never seen a "narrow" Jigmaster... they are all "squared out", right?   

The Squidder has bearings, which I suppose will fail eventually, so perhaps I'd go with a Surfmaster 100 as the Winner.  They have the small size, the EZ takedown screw, and no bearings to fail.

And 200 yards of 20lb mono should suffice for anything we target in the salt from our yaks in this area...  So I have to ask why 30lbs mono is recommended?

And I've never seen a "narrow" Jigmaster... they are all "squared out", right?  

Eric, speaking as older, obsessive compulsive, over-spending, time wasting, fishing nerd.

The Penns are like the Harley of fishing reels good quality, strong, fairly low maintenance, but heavy reels.

I used a pimped out squidder with for years w/accurate frame and a baby international handle. Great for our fish up here, but the spool gap is a problem w/ spectra and thin mono and it's heavy compared to newer model reels.

Johns point about mono stretch is good, I can break off 30-40# spectra but not 40# mono.

The jigmaster 501(discontinued) came w/a narrow frame and spool, 4:1 ratio, the 506 is narrow 5:1. You can convert a standard 500 with a Tiburon frame and narrow spool. The big diff between the squidder and jigmaster is drag size, the jigmaster uses 4/0 size. Great reel for Albacore! But still heavy for light weight purists.

check out this link http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=184.0  the gap between the spool and THIS frame is 10 thousanths of an inch.  the stock squidder "spool to frame" gap is 20 thousanths or more.  he has a narrow spool jigmaster in the hopper, as well as a topless frame for the shimano charter special 1000 and 2000.  i get to play with the 1000 frame when he drops it off this evening.  alan