Rubber pad to secure seat?

I've noticed my seat on the new yak tends to slide around on its own and being a light guy, maybe I do not provide enough down force to hold my seat in place. I have it straped forward and back but the base of the seat tends to move alot with me in it.

Has anyone cut and glued in a thin sheet of rubber to thier seat base? Any recommendations for or against doing so?

Opinions appreciated.

On my first yak (on the third one now) I had the same problem.  After trying a few things that didn't work 100% of the time which was my goal I finally got the seat right where I liked it and used some stainless steel screws thru the bottom right into the yak and was happy with the result.  2 screws, takes a phillips screwdriver and about 30 extra second to get the seat out.  Was a fair trade for me.  I used the type of screws that come with a washer attached and they sink into the seat padding and your butt can't feel them.  I realize this might not be a preferred method but it stayed put 100% of the time.

Thanks for your experience on that.

Having an inflatable seat will prevent the ability to use screws through it on the base. I' sure alot of learning is envolved with finding the right method. On the possitive side, I have time.

Thanks again.

What about Velcro tape??

I've noticed my seat on the new yak tends to slide around on its own and being a light guy, maybe I do not provide enough down force to hold my seat in place. I have it straped forward and back but the base of the seat tends to move alot with me in it.

Has anyone cut and glued in a thin sheet of rubber to thier seat base? Any recommendations for or against doing so?

Opinions appreciated.

I used 3M contact cement to glue an ethafoam pad to the hull of my Scupper Pro, as I preferred a higher seat height and could live with the decrease in stability. It stayed in place for about half a season. I'd go with Lexel for an adhesive if I was going to do this again. Interestingly, my new-to-me T160 also has a thin pad glued in place. From the looks of it, I'd bet it had been in place for years.

I wouldn't use glue to attach the rubber mat to the seat base, but would use some sort of mechanical connection. Grommets spring immediately to mind. Alternatively, you could apply some silicone sealant to the bottom of the pad. I bet there'd be enough of a mechanical bond to keep it from coming off, and it would prevent the seat from moving on you.

Regards,
Scott

I've noticed my seat on the new yak tends to slide around on its own and being a light guy, maybe I do not provide enough down force to hold my seat in place. I have it straped forward and back but the base of the seat tends to move alot with me in it.
Has anyone cut and glued in a thin sheet of rubber to thier seat base? Any recommendations for or against doing so?
Opinions appreciated.

What kind of kayak do you have??

He's got a Prowler 15.

You might try buying a roll of the Rubber Maid kitchen shelf liner, cut a square and place it between your seat and the kayak.    I use it in the back of my pickup and NOTHING slides around.  If it doesn’t work, you’re out only a few dollars and you can line your shelves with the rest of it.  

Your posts gave me a chuckle because it made me recall the time I came back from a 30- hour sailboat race and could hardly sit down because my friend's boat had some metal brackets sticking up on the deck just where I had to sit to balance the boat.  I knew he wouldn't take them off just for my comfort, so the next race, I sewed some giant foam kneepads into the butt of a pair of oversize shorts, and pulled those on over my foulies.  I got some ribbing, but my the middle of the race, the other crew members wanted a pair too.  I later took up rollerblading and those shorts came in handy again!
   My Surf to Summit seat on my P15 slides out of place when I make big tush-pushes, but I keep the straps tight and once I get it under me, it stays pretty much in place. 
   If you use sticky-back velcro, clean the yak with denatured alcohol, push the velcro on with a lot of force while heating it with a blow dryer - I've had some heavy duty(wide, with tougher hooks and loops and good stickum) velcro stuck on that 45 deg angle that leads from the circle on the deck near the large hatch down to the tackle box rectangle - it holds a holster for my pliers and lip gripper, and has been there a couple of years.
   You also might want to think of bending your knees more and bracing against the side of the yak, or installing some simple knee straps, if the sliding is a problem when you paddle.  I found out that one of my unpadded straps when loosened make for a good lifting harness on land - put the strap over my shoulder and carry the yak like a big bag - if you want I'll photo where I attached them.

I would say that your seat is simply not adjusted right.  It shouldn't move.  As soon as I get my Mac back from the shop, I plan on making a video of how to do this as I see this frequently.

Sean,

The fact that the seat did not come with the proper straps to hold it backward makes it difficult to set up. I put in the standard issue seat for my maiden voyage and it worked well.

The inflatable seat (Seattle Sports) has a small base and tends to slide ALOT. Regardless of how well the back is strapped, the base has play to shift. The fact that the base does not fit snug on the sides in my seat well is another issue.

I think this one will be exchanged for a different one.

I found the standard OK seat to work well for me so far. Time is on my side.

Maybe take a look at hobie seats and see if it'd make sense to imitate. 

Hobie hulls have recesses at the seat area featuring two anchor plugs which line up with the crease of the seat.  Two stainless steel screws screw into the plugs trough the seat and a velcro cover strap goes over the top of the screwheads.  On only one or two occasions i've pulled the anchor plugs out of the recesses and my seat was definitely slip sliding around.  Otherwise, the plugs, recesses, and screws really secure the seat down and facilitating cranking the mirage drive.

The plugs look like stopper plugs for lexan beakers that you would find in any high school chem set.