Guide - Metal 180 MD Sprocket Installation

As part of our ongoing discussions on the 180-drive failing, here is my brief picture guide to replacing the sprockets. Not a fun task but the thing feels heavy and bulletproof now but only time will tell.

Item from amazon seller Fever SG: https://a.co/d/8EGM4OB

Item feels CNC'd really nicely, maybe some sharp edges but none where shifter coords need to touch.

1. Take off chains and idler cables. I also am running this store’s red cables which are working great, just don’t over tighten them or the red sheathing will rub off.

2. Remove back cone, store rollers. I am running the Goss Etsy store ceramic bearings/Mod2 which makes this end really easy to deal with, these back rollers seem to be the first failure in spines as grit can get trapped back there when running into sand or debris, so highly recommend this mod, Hobie-wan has had his for a year and it's still going strong.

3. Unscrew the middle portion of the spine (pic 1) which will release the front sprocket as well. Store both sets of roller bearings from the middle and the shorter set in the front. Disassembled spine in pic 2 and 3.

4. To remove the old sprockets you need to remove the fin assembly from them. To do this rotate your fins halfway so that the little pin is exposed (pic 4). Move the shifting coords out of the way on both sides of the disc and punch that pin through, I was using a size 4 Allen bit and some pliers as a hammer (pic 5). The mast should slide out now (pic 6). I would focus on one sprocket at a time, but this step is the same for both sides.

5. Once the fin mast is out, the disc can be pushed/rocked out. Easiest when the flat notches are in line with the spine, once you have the disc out (pic 7), take note of the knot placement on the line, you will want to tie a figure 8 in that same placement for proper operation of the shifters (pic 8 ). This knot gets shoved back into the disc when putting everything back together.

6. Untie the knot and remove the old sprocket, take out the detent pin from the old sprocket and place in the new metal replacement (pic 9). Without this detent pin the discs will not hold the fins correctly. DO NOT THROW AWAY OLD SPROCKET WITHOUT REMOVING THIS PIN, SPRING, AND SCREW!

7. To put the sprockets back together, thread the line through and washers through the detent pin assembly, and out the disc area. Run cord through disc and tie the knot again, place the cables in their tracks and slide disc back into the sprocket. Place the fin mast back in, I had to push the disc into the detent pin to get the mast to line up correctly. Pin the mast but know that you may have the disc backwards and may need to pull this pin again, it might be best to just leave it unpinned. (refer to pics 4-9 again)

8. Once you have run your lines again, you can test the operation of the shifters and make sure everything is working properly (pic 10) don’t wait to have it assembled and notice that a disc is backwards  (pic 14). This was an easy fix tho just flip the disc around on one side and it should operate correctly, no need to take the spine off again just some bearings to deal with if you have this same problem.

9. I recommend some grease to get the bearings to stay in their tracks while re-assembling (pic 11). I know that this grease may catch future grit so I will try to rinse it out, but it is needed to get the bearings to stay in place. This takes out a lot of headache when dealing with these damn roller bearings that are the dumbest part of these 180 drives. Front bearings first in pic 12 showing the washer and both sets of rollers staying in place with grease. Assemble this piece and screw it back into the drive (pic 1). Then do the rear sprocket and bearings (pic 13). You can see my Goss ceramic bearings here, these things are killer.

10. Once you have the spine re-attached, you can place chains then idler cables on and test function of the drive. Mine clicked a bit on the metal sprockets then worked great as the chains rested properly. Thing is heavy but works (pic 15), will test otw soon!



I hope this makes any future sprocket replacements easier for you folks, I had a hard time finding resources on the shifter cables, but they weren't crazy, you don't need to take them completely out and can leave them in place for the most part. Hobie will not replace any small parts of this spine so take care of that detent assembly in particular, Hobie receives these spines assembled and will not know what you are talking about when you can’t figure out something about the inner workings of the spine (ask me how I know). Lots of learning on this project and happy the nightmare is over!

Please let me know if I missed something or a step is unclear, I can update as needed.

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pix2

Wow thanks for the detail instructions 

What a great tutorial!  Very nice work, Yaad.   

As a paddler, it's total validation!   

Thanks for the awesome illustrations Poopsmith.

Excellent info!

I've been thinking about putting the metal sprockets on my GT drives (no 180s for me). I'd be curious to know if you notice even a slight increase in noise from the metal-to-metal contact when pedaling on the water (I'm obsessed with silent pedaling).

Great job summarizing this!  Looks sharp.

Good job Yaad! Should be bulletproof now!

What a great tutorial!  Very nice work, Yaad.   

As a paddler, it's total validation!   

Can you put together a tutorial on assembling a paddle?   

-Allen

Good job Yaad! Should be bulletproof now!

Especially with that belt!

What a great tutorial!  Very nice work, Yaad.   

As a paddler, it's total validation!   

Word...though my paddle isn't as shiny as those beautiful stainless parts...

 

I am about to purchase this because my spine plastic part wore down. Debating buying just the back where it broke or all of it. Was curious how this is holding up? Any rust? Thanks and this is my second spine. Hobie spines are back ordered too.

Awesome write-up!