Anything to watch out for?

Well, I have my first kayak and now I have received the rod holders. This evening I finally have some time to start pimping. I have a Prowler 15 and tonight I plan to begin installing two flush mount rod holders behind the seat and a RAM rod holder up front on the slope between my feet.

I'm a little nervous about cutting the first holes in my yak so I'm wondering if anybody has any advice about what I should be looking out for. I'm sure I have the skills to do the installs because I spent 6 years doing sheet metal and carbon fiber composite work on jet aircraft in the military. But, I'm wondering if there are any "watch-out situations" or general guidelines I should be aware of before the dremel tool and drill hit the plastic. 

One thing I am already wondering about is if I need any backing materials under the RAM mount to spread out the load. I have 1" washers for the bolts, but I'm not sure what kind of torque or stress the hull will receive from the RAM base once I have a rod in the holder and a lure in the water being trolled. Are the washers sufficient? 

As others have recommended, I opted to install a backing plate to better spread the rod holder load over the relatively thin sidewall of the kayak.  I used a piece of nylon cutting board cut-to-fit.  I also noticed that a plastic pad eye has nearly the same bolt hole spacing as the bolt holes on the Scotty mount, and I installed two pad eyes on the inside of the kayak to facilitate cable management once I install the FF. 

Cheers, Backcountry

Carbon fiber composite military jetcraft work is kinda elementary stuff there Jay.....you might wanna hit up the local JC for primer on drilling holes in plastic  

Flushmounts are pretty simple, just make sure you put the rods in them to make sure they don't get in the way of your paddle stroke before riveting them in.  Use plenty of lexell/marine goop to seal, after the piece is pressed in place just let it cure and trim the excess goop bead with a razor, its alot easier and cleaner than trying to wipe it off while its still wet.

I've never used a ram rod holder, they always looked a little suspect to me.  I'd put a backing plate but someone who's actually used one is probably a better source for that info.  

Use plenty of lexell/marine goop to seal

I just got turned to Lexel (instead of goop). Had to re-do my transducer and Vince from Aquan had me try the Lexel brand ($6.95 a tube). Lexel tends to flex where goop does not - the down fall is that it takes a longer time to dry.

Cure time is crazy for xducers, learned that one the hard way but its overnight for thin spread sealing.  I would use it over goop any day.

Thanks guys! I think I'll take the nylon cutting board backing plate approach too. I hadn't heard of lexell before so I already have a tube of goop. Once I get it all put together I'll post some pictures. I don't have a fishfinder yet, but I'm hoping to pick one up in the next few months and I'm sure I'll have a few more questions then. Thanks again!

I use Ram mounts and just use 1 inch washers.  Haven't had a problem yet.  The ball join tends to slip before too much stress gets placed on the base.  Well, that might be because I only tighten down the balls that much.  It stays put except when I snag or under the most violent of strikes, and then it only moves a bit before I'm on it.

-Allen

   Mooch,  word of caution about using lexel, I've experienced.  I used it to affix my transducer into my OB, yes it took a while for it to cure.  After season at Loch Lomond (Santa Cruz) put yak up stored upside down. Well after a few really hot days in Scotts Valley (where I used to live) the lexel  became mobile!  Didn't realize this until I lowered yak for prep to go somewhere (don't recall lake now) anyhow looking inside to see what I may have left from last use, I notoiced a "stalagtite" rising from the hull where my transducer was!  The lexel became soft during the extream heat wave that hit the area, and the weight of the transducer streached the lexel into twisted off the hull by 3.5 inches!
  If you store your yak upright, you probably won't have any problems.  It took heat and gravity to deform my installation.

Troy

Well, that might be because I only tighten down the balls that much.  It stays put except when I snag or under the most violent of strikes, and then it only moves a bit before I'm on it.
-Allen

You're treading on thin ice here, Polepole, making a statement like that around the folks on this board...

Well, that might be because I only tighten down the balls that much.  It stays put except when I snag or under the most violent of strikes, and then it only moves a bit before I'm on it.
-Allen

You're treading on thin ice here, Polepole, making a statement like that around the folks on this board...

Hah!!!   I just tell it as it is ... 

-Allen

I used aluminum plates for backing.  Just be sure to deburr and round the edges.  Orchard Supply sells it in 1/4" thick strips that are the perfect width, cheap.  You'll be needing that cutting board later!

Also I used silicone...  it works very well for me.