Drip "candle" plastic for kayak repair?

I've got a thin spot (not a hole) on a kayak, and I'd like to add some mass. I could try to patch it from the outside, but that would look kinda crappy, so I was thinking that adding plastic to the inside would be better. I came across this "drip candle" plastic:

https://www.amazon.com/Wintersteiger-Wintersteigter-Drip-Candle-Clear/dp/B009AV1DM4

It is designed for skis and snowboards, but one of the comments claims that it works to repair scratches in kayaks too. Did anybody ever try this on a kayak? In any case, any thoughts on whether it is likely to work on a kayak? If it works, it seems a lot easier than plastic welding...

Hi,
I have been using ptex candles to fill in gouges scratched etc.... works great but takes a while to scape them clean afterwards.   Last time I did this I think I went through about 6 sticks.... someday soon my whole kayak will be ptex stick with no old town left.

Troy

Hi,
I have been using ptex candles to fill in gouges scratched etc.... works great but takes a while to scape them clean afterwards.   Last time I did this I think I went through about 6 sticks.... someday soon my whole kayak will be ptex stick with no old town left.

Troy

Thanks for the info. Do you think it's as strong as strong as the original hull material?

Maybe relevant or not but what methods do pro repair people use?

I’ve wondered this since I rescued someone whose yak sank above Muir cove

It had recently been repaired by a reputable shop

I'm not a pro, but have used this technique for many years to repair polyethylene. Practice on a scrap piece of plastic like an old bucket with a crack. You will need a propane torch, an couple of old knives with different shaped tips, and a hot glue gun. Heat the knife tip dull red and carefully soften the damaged area but not to the point where it melts thru. Immediately squeeze hot glue on this primed area and wait a minute or so to semi harden. Take the knife tip to smooth the semi liquid hot glue. Repeat as necessary. Never put hot glue on a cold surface or else it will just peel off.
If repairing a crack it's a good idea to drill a very small hole at each end of the crack to release tension before gluing. Also I find that automotive dent pulling glue sticks are stronger than the hobby grade stick usually used in glue guns.

I'm not a pro, but have used this technique for many years to repair polyethylene. Practice on a scrap piece of plastic like an old bucket with a crack. You will need a propane torch, an couple of old knives with different shaped tips, and a hot glue gun. Heat the knife tip dull red and carefully soften the damaged area but not to the point where it melts thru. Immediately squeeze hot glue on this primed area and wait a minute or so to semi harden. Take the knife tip to smooth the semi liquid hot glue. Repeat as necessary. Never put hot glue on a cold surface or else it will just peel off.
If repairing a crack it's a good idea to drill a very small hole at each end of the crack to release tension before gluing. Also I find that automotive dent pulling glue sticks are stronger than the hobby grade stick usually used in glue guns.

This is briefly discussed on the Hobie forum too (the first, long and rambling post in the thread):
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=4049

Do you think that this as durable as the original plastic?

Maybe relevant or not but what methods do pro repair people use?

I’ve wondered this since I rescued someone whose yak sank above Muir cove

It had recently been repaired by a reputable shop

I think pros do actual plastic welding.  Hot iron, heat gun, fresh HDPE filler, and screen mesh to support larger gaps. I think the screen is mostly to keep the shape whole heating and cooling, not for structural purposes.

Heat up both the patch area and the new material, place screen if necessary, then melt new material where needed. Smooth over with heat gun and/or hot plastic welding iron.

I used a propane torch and a putty knife, and it worked great. It's a little ugly because I "caramelized" a little bit, but I have 100% confidence in the integrity of my patch. It is very easy to get a little too hot.

There is a plastic welding shop in Sacramento - https://theplasticsguy.com/plastic-welding

I have a plastic welding iron that you are welcome to borrow. As paddler said both surfaces have to be hot and melted or it will peel off. Unfortunately, it’s hard to tell if the bond was good. Especially if the area is being flexed it can peel off a few months later. Like others I’ve seen supposedly professional repairs fail.

To add to the search function..
When I did water treatment,  we had "plastic welders " they looked like a curling iron bot blew super heated air out the end and you used the appropriate filler rod.
#2 added a hot glue gun deal that you fed out molten media.