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Topics - NowhereMan

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 21
1
Hobie Kayaks / Hobie to make Adventure Islands again???
« on: June 16, 2024, 08:33:31 PM »
I posted to the Hobie forum in February about some AI-related issues. I didn't notice at the time, but someone from Hobie posted the following (at https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=71&t=68946&start=15):

My understanding is that the AI would return as part of the restart of sailing products under the Hobie Company umbrella again. This will be somewhat of a slow return I would guess as they are still moving materials to the Mexico factory. It's a huge project with many moving parts.

The guy who posted that, Matt Miller, has since retired, but he was considered the best informed of the Hobie people on the forum. Well, it's 4 months later and it seems that nothing has happened, but maybe there's hope...

2
Craftsmen's Corner / DIY PVC seat
« on: June 13, 2024, 08:26:20 AM »
I posted something about my DIY-PVC seat in a different thread, but now that it's been through several revisions, and I think I've more-or-less perfected it, I thought I'd start a separate thread.

The backstory is that on a pre-2015 AI/TI, the seat area is sure to get flooded with water, and I got tired of sitting in a puddle of water all day. So, I made a frame out of PVC pipe, and strung bungee cord over it as tight as possible. The first version worked OK, but was a bit too low in front. The second version was very comfy, but it was a bit too high. The 3rd version ended up in the trash (lots of swearing involved) as the glue set on the very last piece before the pipe was fully inserted into its fitting.

Finally, the fourth version seems to be exactly what I was looking for. The only down side is that the bottom of the main sail is now below head-height, but that's a lot less annoying than a wet butt. Some pictures are attached.

It's all 3/4" regular white PVC pipe. I glued it together (the usual PVC cement, no primer), and I'd recommend glueing it. It is possible to just put in screws to hold it together, making it easier to modify, but then it might squeak. It is a bit challenging to get everything square when gluing. Believe it or not, I found that the secret to squareness is to buy PVC pipe from Lowe's rather than Home Depot, as the pipe from Lowe's can be fully inserted into fittings and taken apart, while the pipe from Home Depot could only be inserted about half way into fittings. Being able to completely pre-assemble everything is a huge plus, as then you can square everything, and mark exactly how the pipe and fitting need to join.

Also, the extra brace across the underside is worth including, as without that, the pipe tends to bow in quite a bit under the pressure of the bungee cord (not to mention the weight of the butt). Adding a second brace would not be unreasonable. The brace was a bit tricky, as part of the inside of the fittings needs to be filed off (pipe is not supposed to slide through the middle third of a T fitting). I did that modification with a sanding pad on an angle grinder (gotta be very careful not to melt/burn the PVC too much). I didn't bother to glue the modified T onto the pipe as the bungee cord should hold it in place. Finally, the curvy piece on the front is not necessary--it's just something I happened to have lying around (or, possibly, laying around) that was the right length. Finally finally, I also plan to put some rubber feet under the bottom front pipe, since it doesn't exactly match up with the shape of the kayak. If you are really good at bending PVC pipe, it might be possible to make the pipe lay flat against the kayak, but that would be tricky, as the hull is not perfectly symmetric.

If anybody wants precise lengths of the pipes used, LMK.


3
Kayak Sailing / How much water is too much inside Hobie AI ???
« on: June 13, 2024, 07:20:05 AM »
The front hatch on the Hobie Islands is notorious for leaking. There are at least 3 approaches that people use to try to reduce the leakage, and I thought I had it figured out. However, this year I've been out several times sailing hard in rough conditions, and have ended up with a lot more water inside the hull than I recall having in the past. Previously, I'd only have a couple of cups of water, but this year, it seems more like a couple of quarts.

It's not a huge amount of water, so I don't think it is a serious leak (I did put a few inches of water in the hull to check for a leak and nothing showed up). The most likely suspect remains the front hatch, but there are other possibilities (round hatches, for example).

Anyways, I'm wondering how much water people get inside the hull when sailing their AI/TI in challenging conditions.

4

When I saw this article, the first thing I thought of was the Far Side comic below...

https://www.ktvu.com/news/kite-surfer-spells-help-sand-prompts-santa-cruz-rescue

5
Kayak Sailing / Mr. X rides again!
« on: June 09, 2024, 08:48:07 AM »
As most of you probably know, Mr. X is attempting the Race to Alaska (R2AK) in his Hobie Tandem Island. It just started today, and he sent me the attached picture and tells me that everything is going great so far.

You can download the app "YB Tracking" and select the race to Alaska to track the participants. The attached tracks shows Mr. X's position (close up and zoomed out) as of a few minutes ago. The land mass in the upper left is Vancouver Island.

If/when I hear any more, I'll post here.


6
Craftsmen's Corner / looking for seat bottom suggestions...
« on: June 03, 2024, 11:35:02 AM »
I've got a pre-2015 Hobie AI, which means that I sit in a puddle of water, except on the days where it's no fun to have an AI. I finally decided to do something about it. I made a PVC frame that will keep my butt out of the water--see the pictures below. I've already got a seat back that works well (it's made out of PVC pipe and lots of bungee cord), so, it's just the seat bottom that is needed.

I'm thinking that there must be some sort of mesh that would work well for this, but (butt?) I seem to be having trouble Googling up anything that looks like a good fit. If you have any suggestions, let me know!


7
Craftsmen's Corner / Homebrew aluminum kayak trailer
« on: May 04, 2024, 06:50:33 PM »
I already have a nice aluminum (Trailex) trailer for my AI, so you might think that the last thing I'd need is another aluminum kayak trailer. Well, if you think that way, you'd be wrong, as I have managed to piece together a second AI, and I feel that Number Two (as I have christened my second AI) will lose its self-esteem if it does not also have its own trailer. Besides, I've been salivating over the Yakima Rack and Roll trailer for years.

However, I could not justify spending almost $3k for an actual Yakima Rack and Roll, so I decided to build something similar myself. I bought the same wheels, shocks, and a couple of other parts that are used on the Yakima trailer. Then I bought a bunch of square aluminum tubing (2 x 2 x 1/4, 6061-T6, for those keeping score).

It was at that point that I remembered that I don't know how to weld, so it was going to have to all be held together with bolts and such. So, I bought a bunch 316 stainless bolts, some 1/4" flat aluminum plate (also 6061), and also some exotic metal rods (aluminum-bronze, nickel, ...) for various special uses.

I do have a small drill press, and I bought an angle grinder for this project, but otherwise, I don't have much for tools, no real workshop, etc. So, it took a while, but eventually, I got the frame together, and wheels attached. I took it out for a short test-run, only to realize that it was about 1' wider than I wanted it to be. So, I disassembled it, cut down the width, and re-assembled.

Just yesterday, I got a chance to give this new-and-improved version a good test run, and I filmed it, just to see how it towed, as I can't see it when driving. If you want to take a look-see, the video is below. Next, I'll try the same with it carrying an AI.

Btw, I'm especially proud of the fenders (6" ABS pipe cut lengthwise and painted orange), although they do looks somewhat, umm..., out of place. As you can see in the picture, there are lights (and they've been properly wired since that picture was taken), but you can't see them in the video. It doesn't have a safety chain/cable yet, and I want to tweak a couple other minor things; otherwise it's done.

At some point, I plan to make a video of the build process with a lot more details, as I filmed some of it and took lots of pictures.





8
AOTY / Legal method of measure for AOTY?
« on: March 10, 2024, 07:52:33 PM »
Enquiring minds want to know...

9
General Fishing Tips / Any fish in Almaden Reservoir?
« on: February 27, 2024, 05:50:59 PM »
Anybody here ever fish in Almaden Reservoir (not to be confused with Almaden Lake, which is nearby)? Unfortunately, kayaks are not allowed, but it looks like it would be reasonably fishable from shore. I always see people fishing Almaden Lake, but I was at Almaden Reservoir yesterday and there was nobody.

10
For Sale / 2014 Hobie Revo 13 for $1350 (not mine)
« on: February 25, 2024, 07:02:13 PM »
May be a good price, if it doesn't have any serious problems:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/spo/d/san-francisco-hobie-revolution-13/7721281663.html


11
Craftsmen's Corner / Windsurfer mast for Hobie AI project...
« on: January 07, 2024, 10:40:13 AM »
I got a cheap (sub-$200) windsurfer mast that is in great shape and is exactly the same length as my AI mast. I bought the mast base and collar from Hobie, and installed the base (a little Goop and a couple of rivets did the trick).

All that remains is to glue the collar to the mast. However, the windsurfer mast seems to be slightly skinnier in diameter (1mm or less) than the official Hobie mast.

On the Hobie forum, they say to use West Systems G/flex epoxy (which I've got) and not to rivet it, as it could create a weak point. The collar is subject to a lot of turning force, due to the roto-furling sail (and even more so with my mast topper and 2nd sail). The slight difference in diameter means that the collar is ever-so-slightly loose and wobbly, and I think this might make it more likely to break free when attempting to furl the sail (this happens on rare occasion with the standard mast, as reported on the Hobie forum).

I'm wondering if anybody has any suggestions on how to get the collar perfectly centered and how to glue it so that it's less likely to break free. I was thinking that adding strips of fiberglass might help, but also worried that it might just bunch up when trying to slide the collar over the wetted-out cloth...




12
Gearing Up and Rigging Up / baitcaster reel recommendations?
« on: January 05, 2024, 08:26:48 AM »
I'm looking for a baitcaster reel, primarily for use in freshwater, but I'd also like it to be able to multitask for, say, sabiki-ing in the salt. I had one of these

https://www.tackledirect.com/abu-garcia-orra2ins-orra-inshore-baitcasting-reel.html

and I thought it was great, while it lasted. Unfortunately, it didn't hold up well, and became unusable after only about 1 season of light use in saltwater.

I don't want to spend a fortune, but $200 or a bit more would be OK for something that will last.

13
General Talk / Surf's up in Santa Cruz!
« on: December 28, 2023, 02:24:31 PM »
The surf was crashing pretty good around the lighthouse in SC. I took a brief video, but not sure why it looks kinda crappy on youtube:



So, I uploaded a higher resolution version here:

https://www.cs.sjsu.edu/~stamp/kayak/

Later we were walking around the F dock, and a 5-6 foot surge had us running away to keep from getting washed into the harbor. Here are a couple of pictures of that (didn't get a picture until it had started to recede, but still...).


14
General Talk / Beware of strandbeests on the beach...
« on: December 22, 2023, 10:24:02 AM »


15
The family wants to go to Napa, and I'll probably be able to get away for at least a couple of hours on my own. Of course, I'd like to fish, but don't know anything about that area. Sadly, no kayak, so I was wondering if there are any decent prospect for bank/shore fishing this time of year...

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