Scotty 1050 downrigger kayak mods.

On a recent fishing trip we were trolling 70+ feet down. I’ve been using a Scotty laketroller for years and haven’t had much motivation to replace it. By the end of the long weekend I was done dealing with the old laketroller. My hands hurt from using it and it was getting really wobbly from years of use. I was with Corey, who was using a Scotty 1050 and it seemed like a nice downrigger. He mentioned that the boom was too long for his liking on a kayak, which it certainly seemed like by just looking at it. Well, it’s only metal, we can work with that!

MOUNT:

This is Hobie new style outback specific. I purchased a mount from Snipe Air Industries (who is a member on here).

DOWNRIGGER:

The Scotty 1050 and 1060 are very similar. The 1060 has a bigger spool giving it a faster retrieve rate, but also cutting into leg room on the kayak. So I went with the 1050.

TEAR DOWN:

I stripped the boom of the rod holder, lime guide, and pulley. To recover the pulley mount (plug) I cut the end of the boom and tapped the pulley plug out from the inside so that it could be reused.

For the downrigger the line counter cover just lifts off. Then a nut to remove it. Then a jam nut on top of a nut/washer welded combo. This is your brake adjustment for when you put it back together!

After that the spool and brake come off. Under that is a stepped plastic disk which is another part of your brake. MARK THIS so it goes back together right. Not a big deal if you don’t, it’s not too hard to figure out.

Now you have a base and a boom. There is a single screw with a nut holding the boom in place. Undo this a remove the boom. I did not reuse the boom or the screw.

NEW BOOM:

The old boom is 3/4 inch stainless steel. Stainless is great but have you tried bending it at home without a hydraulic pipe bender? I tried. It did not come out well.

I hit the local Ace Hardware and found some 3/4 inch ALUMINUM tube in 4 foot lengths for under $15 after taxes. I know that aluminum is not at strong as stainless steel, but for hanging a 4 or 6 lb ball in the water off a slow moving kayak it is more than strong enough.

After some trial and error I came up with using a 16” section of tube angled at something like 100-110 (more than 90 but I didn’t actually measure).

While test fitting I put the pulley (not installed, just set) on the boom and the spool on the base. I ran the downrigger line through the pulley and adjusted the boom until the pulley height was correct and the downrigger line came straight to the pulley.

Once I was happy with the pulley location I marked the boom against the base. I then removed the spool and pulley. From the top, where the old screw was holding the old boom I drilled a pilot hole into the new boom. I then used a sheet metal screw to secure the new boom. Moving to the side of the mount I drilled a new hole in the base and into the new boom. I then used another sheet metal screw so the boom is anchored with 2 screws.

ASSEMBLY:

Assembly is the opposite of tear down. Re install the pulley using the old plug and parts. If you break something here you can buy a new pulley and install kit for $25 from Scotty. No reason to break it though. Re-index the stepped plastic wager and brake lever. Install the spool, taking time to adjust the brake nut (the one with the welded washer) and make sure the jam nut holds it properly in place. Zero your line counter and make sure it is facing you when the downrigger is installed. Install downrigger back on kayak. Double check it is functioning properly. Go catch fish.

First pics of a stock one installed and the modded one installed. Then the line angle of the new pulley location. And modded 1050 v laketroller.

Pics of the tear down and mods. 

That is a beautiful job good sir. I will be copying this. 

That's interesting, but if you're going to bend it, why not just get a shorter piece and bend it so that the pulley sits up higher? It seems like that might not be too difficult with the tubing you used.

That's interesting, but if you're going to bend it, why not just get a shorter piece and bend it so that the pulley sits up higher? It seems like that might not be too difficult with the tubing you used.

The way I bent it the pulley is higher to be inline with the spool, as well as closer to me to be easier to retrieve the weight/put my line in the DR clip. Just bending it up to be in line with the spool only fixes half of what I wanted to fix.

That's interesting, but if you're going to bend it, why not just get a shorter piece and bend it so that the pulley sits up higher? It seems like that might not be too difficult with the tubing you used.

The way I bent it the pulley is higher to be inline with the spool, as well as closer to me to be easier to retrieve the weight/put my line in the DR clip. Just bending it up to be in line with the spool only fixes half of what I wanted to fix.

Bending it up and making it shorter would be a way to meet both requirements. I guess it would require 2 smaller radius bends, but seems doable.

Dang that's nice

my 1050 arrives today, looks like I need to get some aluminum tubing

Dang that came out great!  They look fantastic!  I've dreamed of upgrading from the lake troller too.  Someone had to go and tell me there are 2:1 DR's out there and I started to dream about getting one. 

Looks really nice.  I have the short boom. Will steal your idea!

Which are these and who's grabbing them  https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/d/novato-scotty-down-riggers/7681439805.html