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Topic: Tips for Winter Trout Trolling  (Read 1111 times)

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FisherTim24

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As the winter settles in, the surface water temp cools and the active trout feed on to top water column. I have been trying to get Collin's Lake figured out as it's a hit or miss lake. I went trolling yesterday and made a short video on how to troll for winter trout. Surface water temp was 50-52 degrees and at that temp, trout will primarily be at the top 10' water column and you will not mark them. If you don't have any hits after an hour, change your presentation. I also typically to not use flashers or dodgers as I think it's too much for the trout and make scare them away. What are your opinions/tips? I also use different Procure scents!


« Last Edit: December 18, 2024, 09:21:15 AM by AlsHobieOutback »


Plug-n-Jug

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Tim, you are correct about them being near the surface. I use two rods and start my day with little or no weight, long lining 5 and 15' down. I fish one with a dodger and one without. Let the fish tell me what they want and then make depth and presentation adjustments. I was hoping to get out this weekend but it doesn't look like the weather is going to cooperate.
Kevin
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AlsHobieOutback

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Good advice!  I was told in the winter never to break out the downrigger for trout.  Even if you mark them deeper, they aren't the actively feeding ones.  Some also say to troll the shorelines where the sun is touching, saying that the slight increase in temp can have more active feeding fish. 

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« Last Edit: December 18, 2024, 09:26:17 AM by AlsHobieOutback »
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...I was told in the winter never to break out the downrigger for trout.  Even if you mark them deeper, they aren't the actively feeding ones.

I've seen Cal Kellog hammering this point home in so many of his videos! Focus on the top 15ft.

...I'd probably still break out the downrigger though even if I'm only sending it down 10ft, just for funsies.


FisherTim24

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Tim, you are correct about them being near the surface. I use two rods and start my day with little or no weight, long lining 5 and 15' down. I fish one with a dodger and one without. Let the fish tell me what they want and then make depth and presentation adjustments. I was hoping to get out this weekend but it doesn't look like the weather is going to cooperate.
Kevin

Hi Kevin, thanks for the input! I pretty much do the same but typically use the downrigger up to 10ft. Leadcore on the other line. Let me know if you'll want to go somewhere maybe weekend after christmas. Might check out Union Valley


FisherTim24

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Good advice!  I was told in the winter never to break out the downrigger for trout.  Even if you mark them deeper, they aren't the actively feeding ones.  Some also say to troll the shorelines where the sun is touching, saying that the slight increase in temp can have more active feeding fish. 

P.S. our site is old, and doesn't recognize the new short URL for youtu.be share link. Post the full url link from your browser to make it show up here (I fixed for ya)

Awesome thank you for your input and the heads up on the youtube. That's exactly what I was trying to do and my mentality. The first time I caught a 12" near the dam shore, but this one was out in the middle. My brother picked up 3 near the shore line, and 1 in the middle near where I got this hog!


FisherTim24

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...I was told in the winter never to break out the downrigger for trout.  Even if you mark them deeper, they aren't the actively feeding ones.

I've seen Cal Kellog hammering this point home in so many of his videos! Focus on the top 15ft.

...I'd probably still break out the downrigger though even if I'm only sending it down 10ft, just for funsies.

Yes exactly, I mainly use the downrigger because I only have 1 rod with leadcore. I use the downrigger to get my precise depth typically top 10ft. If I had 2 leadcore lines, I'd probably not use the downrigger, but honestly like you said, it's not bad to use for funsies  :smt005


AlsHobieOutback

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I love my toys too, including the DR!  But I find that it's easy to use an inline weight to change the running depth of my top-line by a few feet. 

These are what I use:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNJWTNW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08YNJWTNW&pd_rd_w=a0gWA&content-id=amzn1.sym.386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_p=386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_r=CP6NSREHHHYMJBW3Y1XZ&pd_rd_wg=RukVa&pd_rd_r=78623682-f4ae-457a-8ec6-7991caa7b997&s=sporting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

100%, I've messed around with down riggers and lead core setups but always end up going back to the sliding weight method. Not judging anyone that uses those systems, but for me, it's the KISS rule. No cables or clips. No having to tie mono to lead core. Just clip on the weight and drop'r down!
Kevin
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FisherTim24

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I love my toys too, including the DR!  But I find that it's easy to use an inline weight to change the running depth of my top-line by a few feet. 

These are what I use:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNJWTNW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08YNJWTNW&pd_rd_w=a0gWA&content-id=amzn1.sym.386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_p=386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_r=CP6NSREHHHYMJBW3Y1XZ&pd_rd_wg=RukVa&pd_rd_r=78623682-f4ae-457a-8ec6-7991caa7b997&s=sporting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

I use those snap weights as well. Only time I had it slide down was when the rubber padding wore out. Otherwise, they're a great option. It is a hassle at times though unclipping it and I've lost fish while trying to unclip. But the interchangeability of weights makes it very useful!
I use these but they slide unless you loop the line: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XK3LM8M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1


SpeedyStein

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I love my toys too, including the DR!  But I find that it's easy to use an inline weight to change the running depth of my top-line by a few feet. 

These are what I use:  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YNJWTNW/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08YNJWTNW&pd_rd_w=a0gWA&content-id=amzn1.sym.386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_p=386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_r=CP6NSREHHHYMJBW3Y1XZ&pd_rd_wg=RukVa&pd_rd_r=78623682-f4ae-457a-8ec6-7991caa7b997&s=sporting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

100%, I've messed around with down riggers and lead core setups but always end up going back to the sliding weight method. Not judging anyone that uses those systems, but for me, it's the KISS rule. No cables or clips. No having to tie mono to lead core. Just clip on the weight and drop'r down!
Kevin

This is what I do 99% of the time.  If I know I am going to stick with a certain weight for a while, like a 1/2oz or so, I might just use an egg or bullet sinker to keep the rig as minimal as possible, but the plastic sliders work great too.  I find sliding setups tangle far less frequently if I use a heavier section of mono or floro as a topshot - just something a little stiffer to keep it from twisting. 

Occasionally if I am getting line twist problems I will switch to a 3 way swivel, which seems to force the twist to go through the trolling swivel instead of working its way up my main line.  This really only happens when I use a Panther Martin or a Kast Master with no dodger though, which is typically one of the last lures I try if others aren't working.  Other baits don't seem to do that to me, and if I use a dodger, it will sway but not twist. 

I don't have a downrigger, and don't really have a lot of room for one.  I have tried a few DIY methods for a downrigger, but I am still exploring options.  I think the most successful yet is just an old Penn reel mounted on a rod stub, works OK enough, but I have doubts about the longevity of that setup.  If I figure it out... I will let y'all know.  What I think would work best for me is a downrigger that mounts into a flush mount rod holder. 

I also always use trolling swivels, always as the last item on the line before my lure. 
- Kevin


 

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