Prowler hatch-strap attachment leak found

   Today, one of many recent too-nice days (the ice-cream truck was out), I went for a paddle without fishing gear.  Boy, do your muscles forget soon!  But since my mind wasn't on fishing, I meditated about where it was that water was getting inside the hull.  Almost, but not quite always, I get about 2 cups of water inside on a day's paddle, and I notice I get it more when I get any water over the bow.  I'd always thought it was either the gasket around the hatch, or leaks in the small center hatch, or possibly coming in the rivits to the rod holders, if not some defect in the scupper holes. 
   When I landed today, there was still water in the recess around the hatch, which is just where the screws that hold the hatch straps are located.  I carefully removed the hatch and wiggled the straps while holding my other  hand inside near the screws.  Sure enough, water dripped into the inside of the hull. 
    I haven't seen the new Prowler and don't know if the straps are attached the same way, or if it even uses straps, so maybe they have made an easy fix.  If not, I'll scout around for some rubber washers and put one on the outside and one on the inside under the washers and maybe that will stop or slow down the leak.  The straps will rotate, so I don't think goop will work,  maybe one of you have tried it?
     On the other hand, now that I know the source of the leak, I might just live with it, knowing it's much better than thinking a scupper leak will enlarge and sink me.


     

The screws or rivets might be and additional source of leakage.  On my P15, I still believe it's the hatch gaskets and the that damn surrounding moat of water that's always there.  In extremely calm conditions where there's no splash, my hull is bone dry.

You're right.  Once the water gets in that moat, it just sits there all day.  I once put some 1/2" pipe insulation (like pool noodles) on top of the gasket, got it real tight at the joints, gooped up the joint in the gasket, and still got water inside, so I sort of eliminated that as a source, unless it was wicking up under the gasket.   I took the foam off because it makes the opening harder to get my wheels in.   I might have to cut some washers  out of an innner tube - I'll let you know how it works.

I found this mention in Ocean Kayak's site about installing a forward hatch.  Sounds like they put a sticky-backed washer between the strap and the yak, with the sticky toward the yak.  I wonder what they would charge me for 4 washers and if they'd stop the leak better than a piece of inner tube?

 "#5
Place the 1” washer on the screw, fold the strap so the two holes line up with
each other and insert the screw.  Then place the bonded sealing washer on the
screw (sealant side away from the strap).  Attach strap to boat using one 3?4”
washer and nut on the inside of the boat.  (SEE FIGURE 7)  The short strap and
buckle are attached at the front of the hatch.  Place the lid on the hatch opening. 
Buckle the straps.
FIGURE 7 "

I got out and looked carefully at the straps, and it looks like they do have a rubber backed- washed between the strap and the hull, but the nuts on the inside were so loose that I don't think the washer could make a seal.  So I tightened them up so the strap barely moves, and I'll see how that goes.  You'll need a 3/8" socket with an small "L" handle to get in there easily, tho I was able to do the first one with a Crescant wrench and a Phillips screwdriver.  A few drops might seep in now, but it shouldn't be a drip drip drip all day like I think it has been.
    I started turning screws all around the yak and found a few other loose ones.  My small center hatch has a bunch of them that turn, but I can't get the damn thing open.  I guess I'll have to make a tool to get some leverage - tho maybe O.K. sells one.  From now on, that hatch is getting opened every trip.  It's probably stuck with fish and squid glue and fine sand.

After finally getting the small hatch cover off (see post re pvc wrench I made to do so in other post in this forum), I found that the nuts and bolts were pretty loose and tightened them all up. That should help cut down the leaks.