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Topics - sebast

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 6
For Sale / [FS] Lowrance Elite 5 Chirp combo - $180
« on: June 20, 2021, 06:44:41 PM »
For Sale Lowrance Elite 5 Chirp combo:
   - Head unit w/ cover
   - Transducer
   - power cable
   - 1.5" RAM ball quick release adapter
   - Box and manual :)

Original owner, everything works fine (see below), just upgraded.

I've been using it with Navionics SD card and couple of years ago head unit started randomly turning off. After research I found possible culprit and removed SD card (this seems to be pretty common problem with these units) - no issues after that, and I've used it many times. SD card reader works, I've verified and could export all my data. 


Anybody knows what these are for? Can I use them to mount something?

P.S. Kayak in picture is not mine.

For Sale / Beach wheels and PVC cart - $120
« on: August 24, 2020, 01:41:15 PM »

1st of all - these are not wheelez wheels. But pretty much the same or very close. Same diameter - 11.8".

I've got them several years ago, built a cart, used several times with OK Trident Ultra (no problem), but cart did not work well with AI with outriggers so I bought wheelez. Has been garaged since.
Sold kayak, have other (larger) wheels for TI, don't need this one.

Wheels on EBay go for $150 + $50 shipping.

How about $120 for everything? OBO.

Emerald Hills / RWC by 280.

Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Palomar vs Uni
« on: August 13, 2020, 08:28:11 PM »

I've been using both, understanding that both have their place - Uni is little bit stronger (there are bunch of videos comparing them), and Palomar is somewhat easier to tie. Frankly, I liked Uni more, and it anyways it seemed to be a way to go to tie a larger piece - flasher, lure or weight.

Then I've kind of started suspect that what I tied with Uni breaks more frequently, and I did some testing. Then I got worried and did even more testing with all mono lines I have.

Results, while not scientific by any means, were consistent and surprising. Uni consistently underperforms Palomar, on all 6 different mono lines (20-40 lbs) I tried - almost always breaks first, usually - just above the knot.

Now, this could be b/c of my hands or ability to comprehend all those knot videos I watched, or lines, or stars - but I still thought I'd share these fascinating results.

For Sale / Beach Wheeleez $140 - SOLD
« on: August 10, 2020, 07:23:57 PM »
This is "wheelez for $140" season!

I sold kayak, and have other set of huge beach wheels for TI, so won't need these. Used, good condition. Will upload pictures tomorrow.

Emerald Hills/RWC by HWY280

Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Upgrading Elite 5 CHIRP ?
« on: August 08, 2020, 11:33:35 AM »
Hi, looking for a group wisdom.

I have Elite 5 CHIRP, which still works OK, but will probably die soon (I already had to remove SD card due to the infamous problem). Anyways, might be a time to prepare for upgrade, and I read that new software is better

Has anybody upgraded recently, any major improvements?

Also, I understand that Elite Ti/Elite Ti 2 with touchscreen is not the best idea for kayak (my Tandem Island can be a very wet ride) - is it so? Any major benefits to still consider it over Hook line?


Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Battery charging
« on: June 30, 2020, 08:27:52 PM »

hit some weird problem and not sure where to start.

I built a new battery box for the SLA battery. This is my 4th, but first one I'm having problem with.

When I try to charge battery in the box charger either shows 100% charged or resets, starts charging from 0% and when it stops it's not fully charged (it's about 60% charged). When I  charge the same battery directly - it all goes fine.  I.e. it shows, say, 68% and charges up to 100%
Multimeter shows the same/similar reading (i.e. 12.4V when battery is at 68%)
There is no problem using battery after it is charged.

Battery box uses AWG 14 cable with inline fuse. I have two chargers / maintainers (different brands), and both behave the same. Never noticed anything like this with previous boxes.

Any idea? I'm about to start believing in magic again.

Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Hobie dealer rep
« on: June 11, 2020, 03:49:49 PM »

I'm in a contact with Hobie for TI fix - warranty has expired, bur it seems that part (centerboard) might be defective and they appear to be willing to "extend warranty". They ask me to work through the dealer though.

I bought kayak used (which came from San Diego), so no dealer relationship (I bought bunch of stuff from CCK, but not this TI).  Any suggestions who to contact? CCK in RWC is closest to me.


General Talk / Any HVAC folks here?
« on: February 03, 2020, 03:50:18 PM »
Need new furnace and thought would ask here as well. Emerald Hills / Redwood City.


Craftsmen's Corner / Glue to mount battery
« on: November 08, 2019, 12:19:12 PM »
Hi, which glue do you use to mount battery inside hull?

P.S. Battery will be in a sealed box, and I will be using HD foam as a base.

FWIW, on my AI and TI I used to use Hobie's 8" bucket in the rear hatch, which worked fine for many years in '11 AI, but is quickly falling apart using '15 TI's bucket, after less than a year of usage. (Don't know if it's different bucket plastic, or b/c I'm using/transporting it differently.)

Gearing Up and Rigging Up / SharkShield power switch recall
« on: September 03, 2019, 10:01:52 PM »
Short version:

If your SharkShield was made b/w 2014 and 2016 it might have a faulty switch and under recall.


Long version:

I've been experiencing problems with charging, it would not initiate charging. Most likely bad contacts. Playing with connector a bit solved problems before, but couple of days ago it would not. So I contacted SharkShield asking for help with troubleshooting, and they suggested, for troubleshooting, to try replacing switch. Luckily, in my previous research I found that there was a recall and now they are sending, hopefully, new switch.

For Trade / [FT] Attwood rod holder with flush mount
« on: July 13, 2019, 07:59:22 PM »
It's this one : https://www.amazon.com/attwood-5014-4-Kayak-Rod-Holder/dp/B00JGQL6QQ/ref=sr_1_10?crid=1P5GRIIEIYVQL&keywords=attwood+rod+holders&qid=1563072373&s=gateway&sprefix=attwood+rod%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-10

Like new, but no package. I've bought it 4 years ago, but never installed. I have a mix of Scotty and Railblaza gear, so installing different kind does not make much sense.

Would consider trade for scotty mount / rod holder or 1.5" RAM rod holder (+/- $$) . Or something else  :smt044

Places to Launch and Camp / Need info on Trinity river / lake
« on: July 11, 2019, 09:09:06 PM »

I've just booked vacation house on a Trinity river, near Bucktail Hole, and would appreciate any hints. I have not done freshwater fishing in years - is there any fish there?

Planning to do kayak fishing on the river itself, and sailing / fishing on a Trinity Lake and Whiskeytown.


For Sale / [FS] HAKA / Iron Duck Spineboard - SOLD
« on: July 11, 2019, 11:07:52 AM »

I bought a matching set of backboards, so selling this one. It's Iron Duck 35850, used 4-5 times.

Excellent for hiking and/or carrying extra passengers. I've been using it on my AI and now TI, and not going back. Rated 500 lbs and floats.

I've added non-skid marine grade pad, and cut handles on both sides for more solid installation on AKA.


Gearing Up and Rigging Up / Need help with trailer
« on: June 26, 2019, 03:02:24 PM »

I don't know much about trailers, but saw bunch of people have built their own, so thought maybe I should ask here first. Any hints would help.

So, I have this custom trailer, built specifically for TI: .

1. I'm looking to add 2nd tier bars - to load another kayak and/or cargo.  Trailer is rated 675 lbs, so I should be able to add 150-200 lbs

At the rear cross bar there is a square opening , I guess I could insert and bolt on some angled tube there.
No opening at the front crossbar or tongue. 

I'm probably looking for something like what's on 3rd pic, but it has to be reasonably easy to remove - I want to keep an option of launching TI with deployed AMA (i.e. no side bars), and only add 2nd tier when I go somewhere far, for multiday trips

How difficult would it be?

I contacted manufacturer, they forwarded me to the shop, who have not responded yet.

2. Any way to find out if electrical and lights are waterproof (I know I can submerse them and see :) ) ? Do these (4th pic) look waterproof to you, or I'd better re-do them? 

Update:  according to manufacturer - they are. We'll see :) I still will probably re-do them at some time.

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