One (AI) is the loneliest number...

I've got a 2014 AI that I bought used in 2015 for a great price (the owner didn't fish, never took it in saltwater, only sailed it some, and really wanted to upgrade to the 2015 seat).

Before that, I had a 2013 Adventure (essentially the same as the Revo 16) which I'd planned to upgrade to  an AI. But since I got such a good deal on the AI, I put the Adventure on the back burner, thinking that someday I might convert it to an AI.

Then Hobie stopped selling the conversion kit, and I figured I'd never find aka bars and amas for a reasonable price, and had planned to get rid of the Adventure.

Thankfully, inertia set in, and so I still had the Adventure hanging around when used akas (free) and amas (great price) became available within a couple weeks of each other. The akas even came with some additional hardware, and the only important things that were missing were the mast cup and a mast. I bought a new mast cup and have almost got it put together.

First up, cutting the hole for the mast receiver...

Next, installing the mast receiver, the internal support, and (DIY) backing plate. Note that I had to get an assist to push the mast receiver down far enough so that the bolt on the bottom could be threaded onto the stub...

The front crossbar fits perfectly. It's not easy to see in the picture, but I cut some small 1/4" starboard pieces that act as washers/spacers and protect the aluminum crossbar...

The rear crossbar, on the other hand, doesn't fit. It's about 1/4" off, and I don't want to drill out the aluminum crossbar footing unless there is no other option. I'm still pondering what to do about this...

that's some solid engineering! well done

The rear crossbar, on the other hand, doesn't fit. It's about 1/4" off, and I don't want to drill out the aluminum crossbar footing unless there is no other option. I'm still pondering what to do about this...

Is the hole in the kayak tapped or just a thru-hole? Can you just overside the hole, and thru-bolt with a big washer or backing plate? Seal the hole with some goop?

The rear crossbar, on the other hand, doesn't fit. It's about 1/4" off, and I don't want to drill out the aluminum crossbar footing unless there is no other option. I'm still pondering what to do about this...

Is the hole in the kayak tapped or just a thru-hole? Can you just overside the hole, and thru-bolt with a big washer or backing plate? Seal the hole with some goop?

Kinda looks like they’re tapped. Can you patch those, then offset the bar 1” to the stern, then just thru-bolt? Might require you to add the rear hatch but would be clean, strong, and you wouldnt have to do any metalwork.

I bet you can find a welder to move those tabs over on the crossbar for a decent bottle of bourbon.

I bet you can find a welder to move those tabs over on the crossbar for a decent bottle of bourbon.

For TIG make it two

The rear crossbar, on the other hand, doesn't fit. It's about 1/4" off, and I don't want to drill out the aluminum crossbar footing unless there is no other option. I'm still pondering what to do about this...

Is the hole in the kayak tapped or just a thru-hole? Can you just overside the hole, and thru-bolt with a big washer or backing plate? Seal the hole with some goop?

The holes/nuts in the kayak are molded in. The spacing is exactly 20 and 3/4 inches on my Adventure and also on my AI, while the crossbar is drilled for a minimum of 21 inches. It's kind of weird and makes me wonder if they slightly changed the mold when they went to the newer style of crossbars in 2011 (or thereabouts).

The rear crossbar, on the other hand, doesn't fit. It's about 1/4" off, and I don't want to drill out the aluminum crossbar footing unless there is no other option. I'm still pondering what to do about this...

Is the hole in the kayak tapped or just a thru-hole? Can you just overside the hole, and thru-bolt with a big washer or backing plate? Seal the hole with some goop?

The holes/nuts in the kayak are molded in. The spacing is exactly 20 and 3/4 inches on my Adventure and also on my AI, while the crossbar is drilled for a minimum of 21 inches. It's kind of weird and makes me wonder if they slightly changed the mold when they went to the newer style of crossbars in 2011 (or thereabouts).

Not for 2011 at least.  I have a 2011 hull with the first gen crossbars like yours.  The previous owner had a 2007, and that hull was warrantied, and they swapped the 07 hardware to the 2011 hull.

Not for 2011 at least.  I have a 2011 hull with the first gen crossbars like yours.  The previous owner had a 2007, and that hull was warrantied, and they swapped the 07 hardware to the 2011 hull.

Thanks for that info. The spacing is not critical on the V2 (newer style) aka bars, and since 2011 was the year they made the change, it is possible that some would have been produced both ways. I'd be interested to know if any 2012 or later models have been able to use the V1 aka bars.

In any case, I think I've got an idea that should work...

After imagining all kinds of weird and wacky solutions, it turned out to be pretty easy to persuade the rear crossbar to behave. I just had to file one of the crossbar holes a bit, and I'm sure it wasn't so much as to create a weak point.

I still want to refinish the crossbars and akas, but have been too lazy to start on that. Once that's done, I'm just missing a mast, a couple of blocks, and some rope, and it'll be ready to sail...

Working on the old vs the new aka's, whats your opinion as to which is better?  Just curious...

One other thing to note (you may already know this).  The masts for pre-2011s were different than the 2011+.