I've been trying to put together a second AI from a Hobie Adventure (older version of Revo 16), and it's complete, except for the mast. The official Hobie mast is over $800, and I don't think it is even possible to get the pre-2015 version. So, I decided to try a windsurfer mast.

I found a used 460cm (15' 1") 90% carbon mast for $200 (no shipping, no tax), so I figured it's worth a try. The mast is exactly the same length as the Hobie mast, it's about 1mm narrower at the base, 2mm narrower at the top, the thickness at the center coupler is 1/16" (Hobie is 3/32"), and it weighs 3.86lbs (about 1/2 the weight of the Hobie). I did a few flex testing experiments, and as near as I can tell, the windsurfer and Hobie masts are virtually identical in that respect.

I bought the Hobie mast base and collar and attached them to the windsurfer mast (rivets for base, G-flex for the collar). The mast top piece seems to be currently unavailable, and since it fits inside the mast, it would not work without major modifications anyway. So, I made a little dohickey out of a solid piece of 1.5x1.5x3 inch piece of starboard plastic (not easy without a lathe...). That slips into the top of the mast. I've also got a mast topper that I use, which is the secret ingredient that makes it possible to fly a second sail (jib/genoa or spinnaker), and I figured out how to add that to the top. That was actually a bit tricky, as the sail is not a standard Hobie sail--it's from Intensity Sails, and was super-cheap (like $200, although, unfortunately, they don't sell AI/TI sails anymore). The non-Hobie sail has a narrower sleeve, so I could not slip 1.25" PVC pipe through it, and had to use some narrower (but, supposedly, extra-strong) below-sink PVC instead.

The only things remaining are to spray paint the mast-topper tube, and put one bolt thru to connect to the top of the sail, which should be done in a day or 2.

I might try to replace the mast-topping tube with aluminum tubing. I'd also like to redo that white starboard plastic piece in aluminum, but I don't have a metal lathe, and that would probably be beyond my limited angle-grinding skills.

The lighter weight aloft will be great, but a broken mast would certainly be no fun. A jib definitely puts some extra stress on the mast too.

I was hoping to test it out this weekend, but it looks like the wind will be practically zilch after Wednesday, so I might have to wait a bit to see if it'll hold up. In any case, I still need to find some battens, so if anybody knows where I can get 3/16" fiberglass rods in 10' lengths locally, LMK. I can find them online, but shipping is pricey.

A bunch of pictures...
 

My Hobie Adventure was making a creaking noise that seemed to be coming from the "click-n-go" thing (holds the pedals to the kayak). So, I wanted to remove the click-n-go things, but one bolt was stubborn and got stripped. I drilled off the head (luckily, no damage), but now I've got to get the bolt out.

Any suggestions?

I found YT video where a guy makes DIY fins for his mirage drive (it's a long and rambling video, but if you look at about 1:40, the set on the right is the one that seems to work reasonably well):



I might try something similar, as I need a couple of pairs of turbo fins, and the authentic Hobie version costs $70 each, while even the fake ones are $40 each.

But, I was thinking that it might be possible to create a mold from a turbo fin, and then make fins similar to the real deal using pourable liquid rubber. I'm wondering if anybody has any idea what kind of rubber the fins are made from, or any knowledge of a pourable version of rubber that might hold up to the abuse that the fins take...

The cloth mesh pockets that come standard on Hobies are hook magnets. They sell replacement rubber mesh pockets, which are nice, but very expensive, and I have torn a couple of them. So, I bought this silicone rubber fishing net, and I've used it to make rubber pockets:

https://www.amazon.com/Alwonder-Silicone-Replacement-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B0CYS5ZF6X/r?th=1

The pockets are not as stretchy as the material that Hobie uses. Also, if I can figure out how to add a thin bungee cord across the top, then I think they'll be ideal. But, for now, they'll do, and I can make a dozen or more pockets for less than the price of 1 authentic Hobie version...

I've got a thin spot (not a hole) on a kayak, and I'd like to add some mass. I could try to patch it from the outside, but that would look kinda crappy, so I was thinking that adding plastic to the inside would be better. I came across this "drip candle" plastic:

https://www.amazon.com/Wintersteiger-Wintersteigter-Drip-Candle-Clear/dp/B009AV1DM4

It is designed for skis and snowboards, but one of the comments claims that it works to repair scratches in kayaks too. Did anybody ever try this on a kayak? In any case, any thoughts on whether it is likely to work on a kayak? If it works, it seems a lot easier than plastic welding...

I just purchased a used Hobie Adventure (essentially the same thing as a Revo 16), which is great, except for the fact that it's in Reno and I'm in the Santa Cruz mountains.

I know it's the longest of longshots, but I'm wondering if anybody might be in the Reno area and willing to pick it up and bring it west---it doesn't have to be all the way to San Jose, as even just half way would be fantastic. I would be glad to pay cash or free Hobie stuff (I've got every part you can imagine) or fishing gear or secrets of halibut fishing in Santa Cruz or a tutorial on hidden Markov models or whatever will work!

 

I like to use Gaia GPS to record my kayak trips, and I have a nice holder for my iPhone which is super-convenient. The problem is that the iPhone battery usually runs out before I'm done. I do have a battery pack to charge the iPhone, but most of the time when I try to use it on the water, I get a "Liquid Detected in Lightning Connector" error message--the phone won't charge, and it never dries out enough to charge until after I'm back on land.

Does anybody else have this problem?

Regardless, any ideas about how to keep the lightning port dry? It seems to me that there should be a waterproof rubber stopper/plug that would fit in the lightning port. There are such plugs that keep out dust, but not sure if they'd help with water:

https://www.amazon.com/TITACUTE-iPhone-Storage-Charging-Compatible/dp/B085ZSQB28/?th=1