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Topic: [FAIL] $0.56 Hobie V2 Mirage drive chain repair?  (Read 4020 times)

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SlackedTide

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https://www.e-rigging.com/quarter-inch-x-two-and-three-quarter-inch-stainless-eye-eye-turnbuckle

Bingo! Thanks.

It turns out that shipping is $11.50 for a $4.50 part. Have to look around some more, but that looks like it should work...

All good !🤙
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2011 Hobie Outback - bye bye
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tedski

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That’s half the price for a new chain set lol... the price of hardware is ridiculous

https://www.e-rigging.com/quarter-inch-x-two-and-three-quarters-inch-stainless-jaw-eye-turnbuckle

https://www.e-rigging.com/quarter-inch-x-two-and-three-quarter-inch-stainless-eye-eye-turnbuckle

Maybe 2 of these, and you’ll get 2 sets...

Added bonus is these are 316 stainless vs the 303 stainless amazon ones.  Definitely go 316 where you can.
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NowhereMan

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I tried this out at the Santa Cruz harbor this morning, and it was a complete fail. The lines became slack, and it was impossible to pedal. The rope is essentially no-stretch, so I think what happened is that the the knots cinched tighter when they got wet, and that created more than enough slack to make it fail. Fortunately, I have a spare mirage drive, so I was still able to get on the water and had a nice day fishing.

I'm not giving up, even though it is, for now, a fail...

« Last Edit: June 25, 2021, 03:02:36 PM by NowhereMan »
Please don't spoil my day, I'm miles away...


AlsHobieOutback

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Win some and loose some, but still being able to fish = winner imho  :smt003
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Bring extra rope with you, so if it breaks out at sea, you can e.z. fix, make it back in.

bushy

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charles

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I tried this out at the Santa Cruz harbor this morning, and it was a complete fail. The lines became slack, and it was impossible to pedal. The rope is essentially no-stretch, so I think what happened is that the the knots cinched tighter when they got wet, and that created more than enough slack to make it fail. Fortunately, I have a spare mirage drive, so I was still able to get on the water and had a nice day fishing.

I'm not giving up, even though it is, for now, a fail...
That's a tough nut you are trying to crack. Maybe slip the rope into a flexible tube covering that the material it is made of has "surface" grab. You have to be really spot on with the tightness the way I see you going to maintain friction.I personally think Hobie could have designed the drive with chain all the way by putting teeth into drive surface instead of just flat.
Charles


NowhereMan

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I personally think Hobie could have designed the drive with chain all the way by putting teeth into drive surface instead of just flat.

I agree. The chain itself looks to be pretty cheap
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Roller-Chain-Connecting/dp/B06XXVBJV5/
so maybe there is a way to directly attach the chain, without any cable. I might have an idea worth trying...
Please don't spoil my day, I'm miles away...


charles

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I wonder if one could insert the chain into tight fitting flexible tubing and run it over the surface the cables travel. Tubing would provide "grab" and protect the under drive surface from abrasion as does coated cable with proper tension. Might be able to use existing tension fittings if a way to attach chain to them can be found.
Charles


NowhereMan

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I wonder if one could insert the chain into tight fitting flexible tubing and run it over the surface the cables travel. Tubing would provide "grab" and protect the under drive surface from abrasion as does coated cable with proper tension. Might be able to use existing tension fittings if a way to attach chain to them can be found.

The sprocket that the chain drives is 90 degrees to the "bend" in the cable, so it would not be possible for the chain to bend in the same way as the cable. But, it looks like it would be easy to attach the chain at a point where it would not need to bend in the "wrong" direction. The problem would be coming up with a system that allows fine adjustments in the tension. But, maybe that's not necessary if it's a chain-only system, as here would be no stretch. Of course, then it would all have to be aligned perfectly to start with, which could be difficult.

I upgraded to GT drives and I still have the old non-GT V2 drums, so maybe I'll so some experimenting with those...
Please don't spoil my day, I'm miles away...


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I had a V2 drive chain break for the first time this last week while on Humboldt Bay.  Luckily it failed shortly after we put in and I was able to paddle to shore without too much fighting the tide/current. I put a lot of time on this drive so it was no surprise and it had developed a mysterious "click" that I couldn't trace.  I do inspect the drive after every use.

I live close to the bay and have two more drives so I drove home for a spare while my buddy watched my gear.  That evening I got a replacement chain from Pacific Outfitters in Eureka and by the next morning I had the repair done.  I took it to Big Lagoon for a test and all went well, no click, and I even caught/released a couple of 14" trout.  :smt003

That bungee fix is interesting.  For me, I think I will build a spare parts kit, and on certain trips (guided trips or trips more than 1 hour away) I will pack a spare drive.  :smt006

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NowhereMan

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… I put a lot of time on this drive ….

Me too. I’ve been pedaling a Hobie since 2013 and I pedal the vast majority of the time I’m on the water. And I’ve got turbo fins which puts more stress on everything. This is the first drive cable that I’ve broken, so I can’t complain.

I also carry my spare mirage drive in the front hatch of my AI/Revo 16. It’s a bit tricky to get it to fit in there.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2021, 12:36:03 PM by NowhereMan »
Please don't spoil my day, I'm miles away...


charles

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2012 for my Hobie. lotta time on the drive and two busted cables over the years. Tight fit to get a drive in front hatch. If I took a spare I'd lash it in the fish hold behind the seat. One can get at it on the water there. No outriggers for the Adventure so squirming up to the front hatch and messing around is iffy for me.
Charles


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To get the mirage drive to fit in the front hatch, I had to use detachable pedals, like these

https://www.amazon.com/MKS-Quick-Release-Removable-Pedals/dp/B00DDCDSP6

On the AI, I figure if it’s too sporty to access the front hatch, there is most likely enough wind that I can sail without pedals. And I’ve never found any other use for that space.
Please don't spoil my day, I'm miles away...


charles

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OK. Got it. I use clip in mtb bike pedals, also detachable but front hatch has transducer/battery/cables all living together spaciously. A new neighbor, a drive, might cause over crowding resentments.
Charles


Bushy

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I tried this out at the Santa Cruz harbor this morning, and it was a complete fail. The lines became slack, and it was impossible to pedal. The rope is essentially no-stretch, so I think what happened is that the the knots cinched tighter when they got wet, and that created more than enough slack to make it fail. Fortunately, I have a spare mirage drive, so I was still able to get on the water and had a nice day fishing.

I'm not giving up, even though it is, for now, a fail...



Maybe a cable

SANTA CRUZ KAYAK FISHING Guide Service  2004
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NWKA
Santa Cruz Sentinel
Monterey Herald
Western Outdoor News