Trolling motor/battery pairings and recommendations

Sea-bree, here are a few video's I used to help me set up mine.







I also added a outboard motor kill switch so if I go overboard the kayak wont motor away from me.

Thanks for these, wondering why you made 4 different versions? seems like you refined the design over time. I like the idea of a kill switch so you don't have to worry about falling overboard and watching your kayak propel itself away from you far faster than you could swim to catch up...very smart

My mistake, moving too fast and realizing now you aren’t the dude in the video, just resources you used for your own build.

Only made one version. Just took the best from the different video's and did it one time. Ended up with the Minn Kota PWM, remote for the speed control, battery meter and kill switch. Don't forget to wire in a quality waterproof circuit breaker. The one that comes with the NV36 is cheap and not waterproof!

Don't mean go off topic, but a honda 2.3 weighs only ~30lbs. I used that for 7 years with no issues - a bit noisier but you can rinse it since it's air cooled (vs using muffs).

Only made one version. Just took the best from the different video's and did it one time. Ended up with the Minn Kota PWM, remote for the speed control, battery meter and kill switch. Don't forget to wire in a quality waterproof circuit breaker. The one that comes with the NV36 is cheap and not waterproof!

Thanks for posting those - good info there!

Don't mean go off topic, but a honda 2.3 weighs only ~30lbs. I used that for 7 years with no issues - a bit noisier but you can rinse it since it's air cooled (vs using muffs).

I've thought about this too. Lots of pros here - a few gallons of gas and it goes for days, simple to mount and rig, lighter than many electric motor and battery combos, can probably be purchased for less money overall, and will likely outlast both the battery and electric motor.  Plus, fuel tanks are easy to swap, so if you want a big one for a long day on the ocean or a small one for a quick after work trip on the bay, no big deal, have both.

It is a bit noisier, but probably not obnoxious or intrusive, and doubtful that the fish would notice one vs the other unless in really shallow water. The packaging is a little larger than an electric setup, but with a big kayak I don't think it would be an issue. 

Only made one version. Just took the best from the different video's and did it one time. Ended up with the Minn Kota PWM, remote for the speed control, battery meter and kill switch. Don't forget to wire in a quality waterproof circuit breaker. The one that comes with the NV36 is cheap and not waterproof!

Thanks for posting those - good info there!

Don't mean go off topic, but a honda 2.3 weighs only ~30lbs. I used that for 7 years with no issues - a bit noisier but you can rinse it since it's air cooled (vs using muffs).

I've thought about this too. Lots of pros here - a few gallons of gas and it goes for days, simple to mount and rig, lighter than many electric motor and battery combos, can probably be purchased for less money overall, and will likely outlast both the battery and electric motor.  Plus, fuel tanks are easy to swap, so if you want a big one for a long day on the ocean or a small one for a quick after work trip on the bay, no big deal, have both.

It is a bit noisier, but probably not obnoxious or intrusive, and doubtful that the fish would notice one vs the other unless in really shallow water. The packaging is a little larger than an electric setup, but with a big kayak I don't think it would be an issue.

When I first started conceptualizing this and trying to put the pieces together, I did not fully appreciate the costs associated with a good electric set-up. I especially underestimated the cost of the battery. I agree, a gas option could end up being more affordable and less complicated. That said, I like the idea of a silent motor, no exhaust smell, and the ability to power other things like a running light. I’m going to stick with the electric option and share whatever I learn in the process with the group. Hopefully folks who run gas engines will chime into the conversation so we can compare experiences and put good information out for others trying to make their own decision.

Here’s a pic I forgot I took of the 55 mounted on my outrigger.

Nice setup! Makes me want an outrigger...

Helpful thread, thanks all!

I wonder - my motor (watersnake 30lb) with 5+3 speeds draws different amps at different speeds (just tested). If (and that is a big *if*) I won't ever need to go slower than 1st speed - would I benefit from PWM? I like the idea of infinite granularity and might build one anyways, just wonder about efficacy benefits.

P.S. if anybody has a favorite 12v waterproof voltmeter for the battery box (or even amp meter, 30A) would appreciate the link. Couple of voltmeter I tried are useless to gauge battery capacity

Helpful thread, thanks all!

I wonder - my motor (watersnake 30lb) with 5+3 speeds draws different amps at different speeds (just tested). If (and that is a big *if*) I won't ever need to go slower than 1st speed - would I benefit from PWM? I like the idea of infinite granularity and might build one anyways, just wonder about efficacy benefits.

P.S. if anybody has a favorite 12v waterproof voltmeter for the battery box (or even amp meter, 30A) would appreciate the link. Couple of voltmeter I tried are useless to gauge battery capacity

You will most definitely increase the running time of your battery. Think of it like this: the way your running it, your constantly using your battery. By adding a PWM/ESC it acts like a switch. on, off, on, off, on, off...so your only using half as much battery, increasing the running time.

Helpful thread, thanks all!

I wonder - my motor (watersnake 30lb) with 5+3 speeds draws different amps at different speeds (just tested). If (and that is a big *if*) I won't ever need to go slower than 1st speed - would I benefit from PWM? I like the idea of infinite granularity and might build one anyways, just wonder about efficacy benefits.

P.S. if anybody has a favorite 12v waterproof voltmeter for the battery box (or even amp meter, 30A) would appreciate the link. Couple of voltmeter I tried are useless to gauge battery capacity

You will most definitely increase the running time of your battery. Think of it like this: the way your running it, your constantly using your battery. By adding a PWM/ESC it acts like a switch. on, off, on, off, on, off...so your only using half as much battery, increasing the running time.

I was kinda assuming there is more to that. It's not clear if motor at full throttle running 50% of time for 50% of power would use less energy than the same motor at 50% thrust using built-in speed controller .

E.g. I saw some results showing that at 50% thrust some motor was drawing ~40% of the max. Of course if always depends on the motor. Was just wondering if anybody who is using PWM has actually tested it's efficiency vs. built-in speed controller *when using in a power mode, similar to built-in speed controller*

One thing I've read online is that higher thrust motors draw less amps than lower thrust motors when both motors are creating the same thrust. Something to do with the diameter of the motor and torque. My takeaway was that a 55lb motor might be more efficient than a 36lb motor when creating say, 36lbs of thrust.

Hoping someone can speak to this... All I know about electricity is that it will kill you.

Love your Avatar pic.   

Also love not having any motor but me on my kayaks.

Bushy

Helpful thread, thanks all!

I wonder - my motor (watersnake 30lb) with 5+3 speeds draws different amps at different speeds (just tested). If (and that is a big *if*) I won't ever need to go slower than 1st speed - would I benefit from PWM? I like the idea of infinite granularity and might build one anyways, just wonder about efficacy benefits.

P.S. if anybody has a favorite 12v waterproof voltmeter for the battery box (or even amp meter, 30A) would appreciate the link. Couple of voltmeter I tried are useless to gauge battery capacity

You will most definitely increase the running time of your battery. Think of it like this: the way your running it, your constantly using your battery. By adding a PWM/ESC it acts like a switch. on, off, on, off, on, off...so your only using half as much battery, increasing the running time.

I was kinda assuming there is more to that. It's not clear if motor at full throttle running 50% of time for 50% of power would use less energy than the same motor at 50% thrust using built-in speed controller .

E.g. I saw some results showing that at 50% thrust some motor was drawing ~40% of the max. Of course if always depends on the motor. Was just wondering if anybody who is using PWM has actually tested it's efficiency vs. built-in speed controller *when using in a power mode, similar to built-in speed controller*

Good question. I've never seen that test done. I would assume that it would be based on the running frequency of the PWM. I know most of the Cheap 100 amp Chinese ones run at 15Khz. Unsure about the Minn Kota PWM I'm using or the Hobbywing 880 ESC.

Update:
NPV 36 lb thrust with a 100 ah Dakota Lithium battery and PWM is performing great. I can get a full day of trolling in and still have reserve power in the battery. Top speed is around 5 mph, which is more than enough to satisfy my needs.

I used the videos linked in the thread and worked up my own little PWM. The side mount for the engine is great because I can keep the Mirage drive in and only use the motor when needed, which without any salmon trolling this year has been minimal. It's a big comfort to have the electric assist onboard if I end up experiencing the severe cramping.

I also used a 24 pound thrust Watersnake and Hobie plug to make an additional motor option that can store in the bow hatch. I bring this along when I am not using the outrigger and tramp set-up. It's got 2 speeds, setting #1 gets me up to 2 mph, #2 will get me to 4 mph. I like this setup as well. It was a moderately challenging build for me, but also fun.

The Hylands leg cramp pills were also a great suggestion. I've used the pills once on the water and found them to be helpful. Which has also reduced the need to use the motor and helped me to feel a little more secure out there.

All of this is a product of me not being as fit as I need to be. I think that's the cause of the cramping more so than hydration issues. I've lost a fair amount of muscle mass, especially in my legs since I stopped cross-country Mtn biking and soccer due to an accumulation of injuries. I hope to get back into the gym once a few other nagging injuries are fully healed. I'm optimistic this will go a long ways to removing the need for an electric assist as a safety feature.

If I could do it all over again?
-I would use a real AMA/AKA setup and keep everything else the same. I do believe this is in my future. As much as I like my DIY version, I've noticed that its still possible to submerge the pontoon and potentially flip the kayak entirely if I lean over too much when its loaded with crab gear. Since my ultimate ambition is to be able to take my daughter out as a passenger, I want to upgrade and hopefully end up with something safer and more stable. My trials with the current set-up have me convinced this is not a safe enough platform for a passenger, especially a wiggly one.

Update:
NPV 36 lb thrust with a 100 ah Dakota Lithium battery and PWM is performing great. I can get a full day of trolling in and still have reserve power in the battery. Top speed is around 5 mph, which is more than enough to satisfy my needs.

I used the videos linked in the thread and worked up my own little PWM. The side mount for the engine is great because I can keep the Mirage drive in and only use the motor when needed, which without any salmon trolling this year has been minimal. It's a big comfort to have the electric assist onboard if I end up experiencing the severe cramping.

I also used a 24 pound thrust Watersnake and Hobie plug to make an additional motor option that can store in the bow hatch. I bring this along when I am not using the outrigger and tramp set-up. It's got 2 speeds, setting #1 gets me up to 2 mph, #2 will get me to 4 mph. I like this setup as well. It was a moderately challenging build for me, but also fun.

The Hylands leg cramp pills were also a great suggestion. I've used the pills once on the water and found them to be helpful. Which has also reduced the need to use the motor and helped me to feel a little more secure out there.

All of this is a product of me not being as fit as I need to be. I think that's the cause of the cramping more so than hydration issues. I've lost a fair amount of muscle mass, especially in my legs since I stopped cross-country Mtn biking and soccer due to an accumulation of injuries. I hope to get back into the gym once a few other nagging injuries are fully healed. I'm optimistic this will go a long ways to removing the need for an electric assist as a safety feature.

If I could do it all over again?
-I would use a real AMA/AKA setup and keep everything else the same. I do believe this is in my future. As much as I like my DIY version, I've noticed that its still possible to submerge the pontoon and potentially flip the kayak entirely if I lean over too much when its loaded with crab gear. Since my ultimate ambition is to be able to take my daughter out as a passenger, I want to upgrade and hopefully end up with something safer and more stable. My trials with the current set-up have me convinced this is not a safe enough platform for a passenger, especially a wiggly one.

I still love your setup!

Question: I've been thinking about an outrigger type setup, with a trampoline like what you have, and a motor in the middle, much like your setup.

For the outrigger, why not use a smaller kayak? Would provide a significant amount of flotation and load carrying capacity.  Small sit on top "kids" model kayaks are abundant and cheap on CL and FB Marketplace, and even pretty easy to find for cheap brand new too. Could even rig it so that a passenger could ride there, if you didn't need the deck space.

Here's an outrigger for sale if you're interested.

Hobie Tandem Island AMA AKA X-BAR HARDWARE
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bpo/d/santa-rosa-hobie-tandem-island-ama-aka/7682750665.html

Here's an outrigger for sale if you're interested.

Hobie Tandem Island AMA AKA X-BAR HARDWARE
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bpo/d/santa-rosa-hobie-tandem-island-ama-aka/7682750665.html

That’s a good price for all of that hardware.

I’d like to have a motor on my AI, but I can’t convince myself that electric is the way to go. I can troll all day under pedal/sail power. And, typically, by the end of the day, there is enough wind to sail back to the launch. So, my primary use would be covering distance in a hurry in the morning. It seems like a small gas outboard would make more sense than electric for this case. I’d like to be convinced otherwise, if anybody has a convincing argument…