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Topic: Stealth transport  (Read 805 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

  • View Profile
  • Location: Petaluma
  • Date Registered: Apr 2018
  • Posts: 443
Ive been using a Thule kayak carrier thing on my racks for the last couple years. I like it because it extends the cradles past the stock crossbars. About 5'6" or more cradle to cradle. That's nice because my 525 is pretty long. Problem is that I kinda hate it too. It's noisy and flimsy and my doesn't really fit my kayak well. I recently purchased a new car and was thinking of just using the stock crossbars with cradles. My question is, with the stock crossbars the spread is about 3'6" cradle to cradle. Is that too narrow? Im worried with my 17' kayak that might be too close together and cause flex on bouncy country roads. On a side note, Moo and Eddie, how are you guys liking the Lockracks?
A jerk at one end of the line waiting for a jerk at the other end.


MooMoo Outdoors

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  • View Profile MooMoo Outdoors
  • Location: Sacramento
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 2088
Yes I do. I already put 2k miles on it and it's been great. It's more secure than the traps.
https://youtube.com/channel/UC6mxd4WmuKFxDEozl7vuMzA

2018 AOTY Biggest Lake Trout Winner
2017 Simply Fishing Winner

California Canoe & Kayak Fishing Team Member
Bending Branches Team Member
Branson Baits Prostaff

2020 Stealth Fusion 480
2015 Hobie Adventure Island
West Marine Pompano 120
2019 Hobie Revo 13 (sold)
2019 Old Town Topwater 120 PDL (sold)
2013 Hobie Revo 11 (sold)
Lifetime Sportfisher (gave away)


  • View Profile
  • Location: Petaluma
  • Date Registered: Apr 2018
  • Posts: 443
Nice. Thanks Moo. And you got the Universal X right?
A jerk at one end of the line waiting for a jerk at the other end.


MooMoo Outdoors

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  • View Profile MooMoo Outdoors
  • Location: Sacramento
  • Date Registered: Jul 2014
  • Posts: 2088
Nice. Thanks Moo. And you got the Universal X right?

Yes Universal X. It fits my Fusion 480 (right side up) and my poorman's tarpon 120 (upside down) perfectly but not perfect with my AI (right side up) since the haul is rounded in the center. I simply replace the rubber pad that came with the LockRack with Malone 25 inch roof rack pad (which I already had) and it's very nice fit since there is a gap in between the base mount.
https://youtube.com/channel/UC6mxd4WmuKFxDEozl7vuMzA

2018 AOTY Biggest Lake Trout Winner
2017 Simply Fishing Winner

California Canoe & Kayak Fishing Team Member
Bending Branches Team Member
Branson Baits Prostaff

2020 Stealth Fusion 480
2015 Hobie Adventure Island
West Marine Pompano 120
2019 Hobie Revo 13 (sold)
2019 Old Town Topwater 120 PDL (sold)
2013 Hobie Revo 11 (sold)
Lifetime Sportfisher (gave away)


chopper

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  • Location: Ess Eff
  • Date Registered: Nov 2012
  • Posts: 1011
I'll second a recommendation for the lockracks -- I get almost zero movement on the kayak. I mounted them on the t-track on my hullavators and it is rock solid. For my 2022 outback it has to ride bottom up to fit, but I prefer that anyway. I'll leave it to Moo and Eddie on how they fit the narrower Stealths but I've been super happy with them.

Cheers,
Brad


Eddie

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  • Location: Marin
  • Date Registered: Mar 2016
  • Posts: 8574
I love my lock rack foevah’ for now.  Going on 2 plus years cartopping for storage.  Yak is 23” wide and it fits snuggly between.  I do have to lock it at the widest points in the front with one width buttonhole to spare.   :smt006
“I’m going fishing.”  They said, “we will go with you.” 
John 21:3

Stealth Pro Fisha 475
Jackson Kraken 15
Native Manta Ray 12.5
Werner Cyprus 220cm


Tsuri

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  • Location: East Bay
  • Date Registered: May 2009
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Well I was thinking of getting a new paddle but have needed new cradles for longer. Just ordered a set based on all you all's recommendation. I'm looking forward to being secure and scuff free.

I usually add a bow and stern tie down as well, any of you guys using this rack do this as an extra precaution or is it overkill?
« Last Edit: May 15, 2024, 06:17:41 PM by Tsuri »
P13. T160. Evo 465
Old and salty crew

"I think before the day is done I want to be a fisherman"    - Primus


Eddie

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  • Location: Marin
  • Date Registered: Mar 2016
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Well I was thinking of getting a new paddle but have needed new cradles for longer. Just ordered a set based on all you all's recommendation. I'm looking forward to being secure and scuff free.

I usually add a bow and stern tie down as well, any of you guys using this rack do this as an extra precaution or is it overkill?
I've never bow and sterned but I think about it... :smt006
“I’m going fishing.”  They said, “we will go with you.” 
John 21:3

Stealth Pro Fisha 475
Jackson Kraken 15
Native Manta Ray 12.5
Werner Cyprus 220cm


poulton

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  • Location: San Ramon, Ca
  • Date Registered: May 2011
  • Posts: 326
Measure from CL of front bulkhead to CL of rear bulk head
Set your cross bars that distance apart Strap it down over the bulkhead and go

If roof length wont allow then fwd cross bar to me is most important To secure at bulkhead
Rear just becomes balance point

No bulk head then make a temp block to suport the hull so strap is solid

Cheers


chopper

  • Sea Lion
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  • View Profile
  • Location: Ess Eff
  • Date Registered: Nov 2012
  • Posts: 1011
Well I was thinking of getting a new paddle but have needed new cradles for longer. Just ordered a set based on all you all's recommendation. I'm looking forward to being secure and scuff free.

I usually add a bow and stern tie down as well, any of you guys using this rack do this as an extra precaution or is it overkill?
I run front and rear lines just as added protection/peace of mind -- it doesn't really add any setup time.

Cheers,
Brad


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  • Location: Petaluma
  • Date Registered: Apr 2018
  • Posts: 443
Hey thanks for the input everybody. Im thinking a set of Lockracks might be in my near future. Ive wanted a pair for years and might as well with the new car and all. Not having do deal with straps is so awesome.
Measure from CL of front bulkhead to CL of rear bulk head
Set your cross bars that distance apart Strap it down over the bulkhead and go

If roof length wont allow then fwd cross bar to me is most important To secure at bulkhead
Rear just becomes balance point

No bulk head then make a temp block to suport the hull so strap is solid

Cheers
Thanks Poulton. Im not quite sure what you mean by "CL". Center Line? I think I get what you're saying though. Unfortunately I can't move the crossbars and also the front bulkhead is a bit of a grey area in a stealth due to the fish hatch. But I think the strapping points should be located on a pretty structural area of the kayak. I don't know, I guess I just see.....
A jerk at one end of the line waiting for a jerk at the other end.