Wow that catfish was a monster!

I've decided to go back to paddle kayaks. Gotta balance out muscle groups otherwise I'll just turn into a t-rex pedaling on bikes AND kayaks.

No drilled holes, good condition and stored inside. I'll include the WS Cart with beach wheels along with a small scotty downrigger if you want it. Kydex keel guard installed on the nose with 3M tape.
Cart has risers to clear the hull. I have seat risers and scupper plugs that I'll include with it too.

asking $2000

Located in Antelope CA




SOLD.

Replaced by a clean-enough tarpon 160 with two gigantic hatches.

+1 for needing to get deep. With colder water temps sometimes kokes will be closer to the surface but this time of year they're still scattered and as mentioned, it's a big lake. Most reports I've seen have been folks catching rainbows around 25' down.

I had luck launching out of Mark Twain and heading up towards the Parrotts Ferry bridge for rainbows. I think most of the big boats are going up and trolling the canyons right now but it was further than I had time to pedal.

Last year the kokanee stayed deep, no idea about this year though. In previous years I've had luck at the Carson Creek mouth and in the scattered coves south of Tuttletown.

Another Eagle Claw user here, they're cheap and do the job when trolling. I wouldn't use them for casting or if I was fishing based on feel, but for trolling they load up well and keep a good bend when reeling in kokes.

...I was told in the winter never to break out the downrigger for trout.  Even if you mark them deeper, they aren't the actively feeding ones.

I've seen Cal Kellog hammering this point home in so many of his videos! Focus on the top 15ft.

...I'd probably still break out the downrigger though even if I'm only sending it down 10ft, just for funsies.

Hey, here are a couple that I designed:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/104JRLfw1cmCXaKaU7z5r6z6tkof6ij29/view?usp=drive_link - I designed this one to have an air bubble in it's back to prevent it from spinning out, it worked but requires something to seal the print or eventually water will work it's way in. I've caught rainbow trout with these. It was designed so I could print a bunch out pretty quickly, printed on it's side with simple shapes and minimal internal support (I think I was able to print it without any infill but it's been a while and I forget). Lots of action, I had best luck painting the top with bright colors or printing in bright greens, oranges or pinks. Rig it like a pro-troll or any other number of trolling lures, and feel free to experiment with scale!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ixjjbdAPHo-EacKruMyjU02koGiBkr3o/view?usp=drive_link - this one I designed to be similar to lyman lures, they have a gentle action. Never had any luck with it. Similar to the first one, without a sealing coat water will eventually make it's way inside the print. I wanted to try this out at pyramid lake but haven't had the chance yet.

I'll try to make it out, late though since I have to drop my sister off at the airport in the morning.

08/31/24 - sorry, need to get more sleep. Good luck out there today!

Bambu Slicer is easy and straight forward to use with plenty of options to get really advanced with the control should you decide you want to.

The print profiles all work right out of the box and I haven't found the need to tune anything to get acceptable prints, though I'm sure if I wanted to I could do a deep dive and get slightly improved results.

If you're looking at designing your own custom prints you'll have to figure out what CAD or 3D modeling software you'd like to use, Blender being a decent open source free option. There's also I believe a free version of Fusion360 if you want something a little more focused on industrial design. Really any 3D software should be able to kick out .STL models that can be fed into the slicer for a 3D printer, it just depends on what works for you. I primarily use Cinema4D since that's what I'm already familiar with.

One thing I would suggest budgeting for is a filament dryer. The most common filaments used in FDM printing are all hygroscopic (absorb water from the air) and that can negatively effect print quality, sometimes to the point of failure. I use https://www.amazon.com/Official%E3%80%913D-Filament-Adjustable-Temperature-Compatible/dp/B0BKFMZQHB?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=APCUBABSTSRDE since it was one of the few dryers that seemed like it cycled air, though there are lots of options out there.